Retirement workshop - which machines to buy?

[adhb]

I'm a hobby woodworker looking to set up a bigger, better workshop to enjoy in my retirement. I've got a good range of hand tools, routers, scroll saw, bobbin sander, thicknesser, compound mitre saw and table saw. Now I'm planning to get a band saw, router table, drill press, mortice. And dust extraction. I'm lucky enough to have squirreled away a chunk of money for this. My first thought was to go for Record Power, but I'm having second thoughts after reading a few bad reviews of some of their bandsaws. I've also had my head turned by my Axminster portable spiral thicknesser.
Any recommendations please? I want to buy decent machines that I can trust, will last but won't bankrupt me. Many thanks

 

[Jameshow]

Budget? New or S/H?
New
Laguna jet etc

S/H
Sedgewick
Startrite
Multico

 

[adhb]

Budget? New or S/H?
New
Laguna jet etc

S/H
Sedgewick
Startrite
Multico

Thanks. Probably about £2-4,000.

 

[recipio]

Lucky you. Don't follow fashion, I would upgrade your table saw to a sliding table capable of reducing down 4 x8 sheets .it will do 90% of cutting wood for a DIY er. After that dust extraction will make the workshop a more pleasant experience.

eets

 

[adhb]

Lucky you. Don't follow fashion, I would upgrade your table saw to a sliding table capable of reducing down 4 x8 sheets .it will do 90% of cutting wood for a DIY er. After that dust extraction will make the workshop a more pleasant experience.

eets

Thanks. Don't do much cutting of sheets... Does a sliding table come in useful more generally?

 

[Woody Alan]

"I would upgrade your table saw to a sliding table capable of reducing down 4 x8 sheets .it will do 90% of cutting wood for a DIY er"

I agree a sliding table saw is nice, but one big enough to lift 8x4 onto is very large and you need a huge amount of space around it.
Also adhb is talking about retirement presuming that means he is around 60 years, then handling 8x4 onto a saw is getting to be a no go. A couple of trestles and outdoors to break a sheet down and then trim on saw is the way I have choosen.

 

[adhb]

"I would upgrade your table saw to a sliding table capable of reducing down 4 x8 sheets .it will do 90% of cutting wood for a DIY er"

I agree a sliding table saw is nice, but one big enough to lift 8x4 onto is very large and you need a huge amount of space around it.
Also adhb is talking about retirement presuming that means he is around 60 years, then handling 8x4 onto a saw is getting to be a no go. A couple of trestles and outdoors to break a sheet down and then trim on saw is the way I have choosen.

Thanks. Yes, much as I'd like a bigger table saw it's probably not realistic in terms of space.

 

[Sideways]

You already have most of what you need. Don't be in a rush to clutter up your workshop.

If you don't have a drill press, those are very nice to have.
Dust extraction is also always good.

A router table eats space. Don't rush into that.

Would you use the bandsaw and morticer enough to justify their keep ? What do you like to / want to make ?
Unless you are making doors, windows and gates, then mortices can be cut with a router.
Unless you are resawing thin or wide planks, what is the need for the bandsaw ?

So scratch the itch with a nice drill press - even a restored classic.

Think about your dust extraction. A good quality shop vac like a festool or one of the other good brands is very nice to have for power tools and general clean up. A 2 motor numatic nvd750 is another option if you don't need to move it much.
If you need a high volume low pressure type for the tablesaw and planer, then consider how big they are, where you'll put it and have you room to move it around and swap from machine to machine on a short flexible hose or would it need to be parked in a corner and plumbed in ?

I can't imagine using a planer thicknesser without an HVLP extractor. It's a pain as the extractor is bigger than the planer but even a small 10x8" PT needs HVLP extraction. You say you have a thicknesser, what are you extracting that with now ?

 

[pulleyt]

I'm a hobby woodworker looking to set up a bigger, better workshop to enjoy in my retirement. I've got a good range of hand tools, routers, scroll saw, bobbin sander, thicknesser, compound mitre saw and table saw. Now I'm planning to get a band saw, router table, drill press, mortice. And dust extraction. I'm lucky enough to have squirreled away a chunk of money for this. My first thought was to go for Record Power, but I'm having second thoughts after reading a few bad reviews of some of their bandsaws. I've also had my head turned by my Axminster portable spiral thicknesser.
Any recommendations please? I want to buy decent machines that I can trust, will last but won't bankrupt me. Many thanks

I was in a similar position to you about eight years ago. I found some machines at bargain prices (spindle moulder, mitre saw and small sliding table saw) and filled up my shed but I hadn't really decided on what I wanted to concentrate on making. Once I started to plan and make projects it became clearer what tools and machines would be most useful. The spindle moulder and mitre saw went and the sliding table from the saw to give back much needed space.

Good dust extraction should be an essential. but other than that I would recommend starting on your projects and then decide if you need to add to your collection. Eight years down the road I find myself working on smaller trinket style projects much more than substantial pieces of furniture - they weren't in the original plan.

Enjoy your retirement - it's fantastic to have a hobby to look forward to

 

[Spectric]

My first thought was to go for Record Power, but I'm having second thoughts after reading a few bad reviews of some of their bandsaws.

You need to buy different brands for different machines because then you can get the right machine for your requirements and budget. Machines you expect to use a lot then buy good quality and machines that will only see occasional use you buy lower cost versions.

What you have to accept is that many machines will not live upto your expectations straight out of the box and will need some fettling. Examples here are my Record PT107 P/T which needed third party knives and carriers to allow me to get the results I wanted and in hindsight I would have brought something with Tersa knives but my Record BS400 bandsaw was ok except the blades supplied really let the machine down and I now use blades from Tuff saws. As for the router table there is a great deal of info on these forums but do not just dismiss the spindle moulder as many like myself have done as depending what you intend to do it could be a better option and the cutters work out cheaper, plus you can get your own profiles made so here @deema will be giving us a heads up once he has satisfied his others halfs needs during the move. If you have the cash and want the all singing can do almost everything then look at the Incra system with positioner or there are other options https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/routing/router-tables/?_bc_fsnf=1 .

Don't follow fashion, I would upgrade your table saw to a sliding table capable of reducing down 4 x8 sheets .it will do 90% of cutting wood for a DIY er.

The sliding table saw is the best way to cut full sheets safely and repetitively but a good one will cost a fair bit and you need a lot of space, next best is the tracksaw which is what many of us have to use because we do not have the space for a sliding table saw.

When it comes to the drill press look for a good second hand Fobco, Ajax or such as these were really made well and are solid.

 

[Adam W.]

Thanks. Don't do much cutting of sheets... Does a sliding table come in useful more generally?

Not really, they are designed with modern panel products in mind.

 

[BearTricks]

Dust extraction is important I think. I’m about to spend a small fortune on extraction because the thought of dealing with dust with the Henry stops me actually getting in to the workshop and making things.

I’m hoping once dust is handled that will remove some of the stress.

 

[deema]

I hope I’m not teaching granny how to suck eggs, if I am apologies. There are three types of slider saw to which the term is often applied. The first is a full slider where the table slides right up against the blade. The second is a half way house, where the table slides away from the blade say around 150mm away, but the slider still forms part of the table. The third is a sliding table on the edge of the saw table, usually running on a bar or so,e kind and is often relatively easy to remove.

A full slider is brilliant at reducing down large sheet materials. They take up a lot of floor space, arnt very good for standard ripping and almost impossible to have a zero clearance plate around the blade. So thin cuts are also more often then not ruled out.

The third option is great for cross cutting stuff, or angled cuts. Usually far more accurate than using the slots and a mitre gauge with greater capacity. Can be used to break down sheet material, but you’re better off with a track saw for that task. Great hobby machine, a good grounder. Great selection of machines available; me if space was at a premium I’d look secondhand at a Startrite 275DS. Hold their value / increase in value and are highly sought after machines.

The second option is IMO the best of all worlds and master of none. Usually only a secondhand option as I’m not aware of modern equipment that has this feature. They are good at ripping down sheet material especially if they have a scribe blade, but more limited capacity. Can do everything a sliding table saw can do. Usually not much larger foot print than a good decent sized saw. This is the saw type I have for my own user. I have a SCM LInvincible Si15F. Not too big, very heavy, immensely capable saw that are fairly rare but sell for literally peanuts (no idea why!) I’ve rebuilt about five and all were in brilliant mechanical condition with virtually no wear.

The big difference between a new hobby grade machine and a secondhand old iron saw IMO is that the old iron saw (with a bit of judgement when buying) will unless it’s been professionally restored need about the same amount of tinkering to get it working properly as a new saw. However, the cut quality will be better, it will last longer, need less adjusting over time and in all likelihood increase in value as opposed to loose value which a new saw will do.

 

[johnnyb]

What your making is really the key to your puzzle. Don't spend a penny until you know. Space is far more valuable than any machine available. If your working in a big unit(700sqft+)and wanting to make large joinery. Versus a garden shed making smaller intricate boxes. At 60 lighter is more sensible tbh.

 

[adhb]

You already have most of what you need. Don't be in a rush to clutter up your workshop.

If you don't have a drill press, those are very nice to have.
Dust extraction is also always good.

A router table eats space. Don't rush into that.

Would you use the bandsaw and morticer enough to justify their keep ? What do you like to / want to make ?
Unless you are making doors, windows and gates, then mortices can be cut with a router.
Unless you are resawing thin or wide planks, what is the need for the bandsaw ?

So scratch the itch with a nice drill press - even a restored classic.

Think about your dust extraction. A good quality shop vac like a festool or one of the other good brands is very nice to have for power tools and general clean up. A 2 motor numatic nvd750 is another option if you don't need to move it much.
If you need a high volume low pressure type for the tablesaw and planer, then consider how big they are, where you'll put it and have you room to move it around and swap from machine to machine on a short flexible hose or would it need to be parked in a corner and plumbed in ?

I can't imagine using a planer thicknesser without an HVLP extractor. It's a pain as the extractor is bigger than the planer but even a small 10x8" PT needs HVLP extraction. You say you have a thicknesser, what are you extracting that with now ?

Many thanks. A band saw essential as I'm planning to make curved chairs, sculptures, you name it.
Yes I'm tempted by the Numatic, have heard good things about it. At the moment I have a cheap and inadequate Lumberjack drum dust extractor. Better than nothing, but not good. Cheers

 

[adhb]

I was in a similar position to you about eight years ago. I found some machines at bargain prices (spindle moulder, mitre saw and small sliding table saw) and filled up my shed but I hadn't really decided on what I wanted to concentrate on making. Once I started to plan and make projects it became clearer what tools and machines would be most useful. The spindle moulder and mitre saw went and the sliding table from the saw to give back much needed space.

Good dust extraction should be an essential. but other than that I would recommend starting on your projects and then decide if you need to add to your collection. Eight years down the road I find myself working on smaller trinket style projects much more than substantial pieces of furniture - they weren't in the original plan.

Enjoy your retirement - it's fantastic to have a hobby to look forward to

Thanks very much. Yes there's a lot of sense in waiting to see what I'm building and buying as I go along. I'm sure the workshop will evolve over time like yours. Advice much appreciated ta.

 

[adhb]

What your making is really the key to your puzzle. Don't spend a penny until you know. Space is far more valuable than any machine available. If your working in a big unit(700sqft+)and wanting to make large joinery. Versus a garden shed making smaller intricate boxes. At 60 lighter is more sensible tbh.

Thanks yes, space essential. The plan is for a double garage sized workshop, about 30m2. Even then, it would be daft to have too much. Reckon I'll go slowly and add or remove items as I go. Much appreciated

 

[TRITON]

Combination machine ?.

 

[adhb]

Maybe, but in already have a table saw and routers. Do you recommend any particular one?

 

[deema]

For a bandsaw, I’d try and find a Startrite 352, 14S1 or better still a 14S5. One of the easiest to change blades, strong back, not much to go wrong and can tension blades properly. I write a thread on blade guides I’d suggest you read before getting to far into buying a saw. Equally Sideways and I wrote a thread on restoring a SCM bandsaw of the size that would interest you. We detail a lot of the theory and what to look out for that makes a good bandsaw.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/scm-minimax-s45-bandsaw-teardown-overhaul.135069/

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/bandsaw-blade-guide-theory.135481/