Restoring an old brass and ebony(?) brace - “metallic frame

[Sawdust=manglitter]

My uncle recently uncovered a few old tools that belonged to my grandad (who passed away when I was 14). As I’m the ‘family woodworker’ he kindly gave them to me. All of the tools are in a poor state, some even at the point of being caked in bird sh*t. Amongst the lot was a stinking and heavy duty feeling brace (there was also a pile of bits). Having taken off some of the muck I discovered that it appears to be mostly solid brass with the wood handles being a very dense closed grained very dark wood which I now believe to be ebony.

It’s not something I’ll be selling on as it has sentimental value, I’m under no illusions either as it’s in a pretty poor state, but I’m wondering whether it would be worth the (presumably considerable) investment of time to refurbish? I have a lot of little things On the go on top of a big furniture project, so time is precious. I’ve already started to clean back some of the flat surface brass and came across the following markings, but no apparent makers mark:

Would appreciate any info anyone has on the maker and the period? My grandad’s step-father was a very talented carpenter/furniture maker, so it probably belonged to him originally.

Does anyone have any tips on how best to tackle this? Should I consider removing the screws to take it all apart for easier refurbishing? I know that would risk breaking the screws and having to replace them though. Refurbishing it all in-situ just seems a daunting task and difficult to do a tidy job (being cack handed!), but would at least be good to get it clean and useable, but best case be presentable.

 

[ED65]

I think this is a good candidate for a cleaning/restoration mixture, but how far to take it is as always up to you.

All woods can be repaired to one degree or another, usually visibly of course, but ebony is one of the best candidates for repairs and fills because they can be nigh-on impossible to spot afterwards.

Does anyone have any tips on how best to tackle this? Should I consider removing the screws to take it all apart for easier refurbishing?

If I were doing a full restoration I would consider this vital, not least because I'd want to polish every screw head. But there is always the potential for some of the screws to be jammed solid and even if it's only one (been there, have the t-shirt) it could throw a spanner in the works.

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

Thanks Ed. That would be my worry with removing the screws, what if a couple are too corroded and shear off when attempting to remove!? I would either be very lucky in finding a matching screw to replace them with, or I may even have to resort to replacing them all so they match!?

 

[thetyreman]

then screws will probably be fine if they're brass, can't wait to see how this one turns out, looks like really nice brace.

 

[AndyT]

There are hundreds of subtle variations on this theme. Some people collect them in large numbers.
The best reference is apparently "The Ultimate Brace" by Reg Eaton, but I don't have a copy.
I think I have read that ebony is much more common than boxwood, so less valuable.

Be wary of over cleaning - it's hard to put back signs of age and easy to remove them. The posts listed in the sticky on cleaning may help.

The screws should be steel, not brass. I'd be very wary of removing them.

 

[AndyT]

I've now had a chance to look in a few books.
Your brace has a 'ring chuck' rather than the earlier, simpler button or lever. The ring chuck was patented in 1848 by John Cartwright with the rights being acquired by William Marples in about 1851.
The ring slides sideways to engage with a notch in the shank of a bit.

According to Proudfoot and Walker, the fact that yours doesn't have the word 'Ultimatum' on it - just 'metallic frame patent brace' probably means that it wasn't made by Marples but by one of many other firms who offered this style of high-end tool, after the patents expired in the 1870s.

(The usual disclaimer applies here - names on tools do not identify the real maker any more than supermarket brands do now. Many of the variously named Sheffield tools would have started life at the same bench.)

Date wise, it's probably somewhere in the 1870s to 80s, but it took a long time for this style to disappear in favour of the stronger American braces - Rees and Rees say that manufacture ceased about 1905.

It's potentially valuable, but I suspect it's more like £100 - 200 than the rarer examples in boxwood, rosewood or bone. It's a very specialist market and not one I have experience of.

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

Thanks for that Andy, that's interesting to know. Value-wise, it's not something I plan on selling due to the sentimental value, but interesting to know just the same.

I've not had a chance to do any more to it yet, but I agree with you that maybe I shouldnt risk removing the screws. As you said, they are steel and some do appear pretty corroded, so not worth the risk. But cleaning it up in-situ will be more challenging though

 

[cowtown_eric]

I too would be hesitant to mess with the brass screws, they seem to become brittle with age, and break easily.

Buffing them up with I'd use something like this in a demel rotary tool with a delicate touch.
https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Scotch-Brite-Radial-Bristle-Discs/dp/B000MQNKP4
My source is a local jewelers supply shop (candy store for finer tools)

Cleaning the wood, I' start by just wiping it with a paint-thinner and see what that reveals!. It may be enuf.

Advise DO NOT overclean! Just keep the patina for what it is, and add yer own!

Eric

 

[thetyreman]

what happened to this? was it ever restored? @Sawdust=manglitter

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

what happened to this? was it ever restored? @Sawdust=manglitter

Well to be honest i messed it up a little bit before i started this post, and since this post i cleaned it up a little but was disheartened with what i had tried originally so it ended up going back into the ‘future project’ drawer. I do still intend on sorting it out one day though