Resion anchors? Any experience of them please?
- Thread starter pe2dave
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Resin anchors are very much the norm these days, replaced the old rawbolts that used to expand on tightening. Drill a hole, blow out dust, insert resin and then insert stud and let set. If it is a cavity wall then use a mesh sleeve to restrain the resin.
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I used them for a satelite dish and have in the past for structural beams to walls. You might want a jig if using multiple studs which is what I did for the dish, holds them in place whilst the resin sets.
This company sells resin and studs Buy Chemical Fixings, Resin Anchors & Studs @ LOW Trade Prices | Tradefix Direct
I used them for a satelite dish and have in the past for structural beams to walls. You might want a jig if using multiple studs which is what I did for the dish, holds them in place whilst the resin sets.
pe2dave
Established Member
Thanks All.
You mention for use with studs? Ever use with screws?
You mention for use with studs? Ever use with screws?
You can buy female threaded resin anchors. Good for use with countersunk bolts if you do not want the head projecting. Even more important with these to use a template.
johna.clements
Established Member
I see no reason why you could not use a screw but there could be problems. The resin may react differently if it is thicker because the screw is a lot smaller than the manufactures recomended stud, maybe set slower or worse. but if you get a resin that works in a small hole and the screw is the same size as the stud it may be ok in some systems. If the stud is used to mix the resin in the hole a screw would not work, you can get resin in glass capsuales that you spin the stud into or hammer the stud into in another system. Also you will not be able to tighten the screw just push into the resin and will have to hold the thing you are fixing until the resin sets.
I would use the resin in accordance with the manufactures instructions unless you are prepared to do a couple of tests on your screw application to see if it works.
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The trouble with a screw is once the resin is set you can't tighten it afterwards. I've used a lot of resin for holding joist wallplates etc to walls, this is how I do it...
Drill hole through timber 2mm bigger than the stud you're using with a flat bit.
Drill hole in masonry 2mm bigger than stud with SDS, try not to go too deep as you don't want to Drill right through the stone you're fixing into or when you put the resin in it'll go straight through and not fill the hole properly.
Brush hole out with cleaning brush a few times.
Blow hole out with blower.
Insert resin into hole and fill until it comes out of the front of hole.
Put nut and washer on stud, only a couple of turns on then twist into resin and push until washers right upto timber.
Depending on the set time of your resin, once it's set go back and tighten the nuts up, the seting depends a lot on temperature.
It's best thing is to drill all holes first before starting resin, the resin sets fast once you start using it and once it starts setting in the nozzle you need to replace them.
Drill hole through timber 2mm bigger than the stud you're using with a flat bit.
Drill hole in masonry 2mm bigger than stud with SDS, try not to go too deep as you don't want to Drill right through the stone you're fixing into or when you put the resin in it'll go straight through and not fill the hole properly.
Brush hole out with cleaning brush a few times.
Blow hole out with blower.
Insert resin into hole and fill until it comes out of the front of hole.
Put nut and washer on stud, only a couple of turns on then twist into resin and push until washers right upto timber.
Depending on the set time of your resin, once it's set go back and tighten the nuts up, the seting depends a lot on temperature.
It's best thing is to drill all holes first before starting resin, the resin sets fast once you start using it and once it starts setting in the nozzle you need to replace them.
It is wise to consult the resin manufacturer's literature concerning hole size. If that is not available, Rawlpug, Spit and Hilti will likely have something available. The difficulty with giving an absolute measurement (2mm) is that it is 25% of an M8 stud and 10% of an M20 stud.
With all the resins that mix in the nozzle, it is recommended to discard the first one or two pumps of the handle as it may not be properly mixed.
In an extreme emergency, car body filler (Isopon P38) can be used - it is of a similar chemical makeup (two part polyester resin) to the proper stuff.
In the old days, when fence railings were secured into the cap stones with hot lead, the holes were undercut to provide some wedging action against pull out. Many old machine tools had their securing bolts secured by hot poured sulphur.
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
Yep - I have seen them used professionally to connect fairly substantial supporting steel to buildings (holding microwave communication dishes, cables, etc) always with a stud being glued in.
Often referred to as “Chem-fix anchors” although I think that is the brand name.
Done right, they can be stronger than the building.
Often referred to as “Chem-fix anchors” although I think that is the brand name.
Done right, they can be stronger than the building.
I used studs with capsule/pod of resin. You put the pod into the hole and the stud had a flat on either side of the bottom and a square on the other end. You then used a drill to push the stud in and mix the resin; driven by the square.
All of these resin anchors are generally a polyester therefore shrinks on setting, vitally important to blow out the dust, it acts as a lubricant, or use a rotary percussive air flush bit, the bond is formed by the unevenness of the hole left by the bit a smooth straight hole will eventually fail.
pe2dave
Established Member
Thanks all, video is pretty clear how, now seems clear it's for bolts only.
johna.clements
Established Member
I have installed studs in diamond cored holes into the side of a bridge over four railway tracks, two Railtack and two Underground, who were very interested in what we were doing. We ran a hammer drill down the holes but I doubt if some of the hole was not still smooth in many places. Then flushed the holes with water to clean out the slurry from the coring, holes were about 400mm deep by 22mm. Waited an hour then epoxy in M20 stainless studs, the epoxy was ok for damp holes with a 25% down grade in strength. On another night we tested all the studs with a strand jack to 110% of the design load.
The studs unded up supporting a working platform which we knocked down the existing bridge parrapet onto at night.
The studs unded up supporting a working platform which we knocked down the existing bridge parrapet onto at night.
Not the same use, but when we had our last house underpinned (look VERY carefully before purchasing property on shrinkable clay!) they drilled holes into the non-sunk part of the floor slab and inserted what was in effect stainless steel re-bar before pouring the replacement part of the slab. House was still in place when we sold it ten years later, and is still from what I hear.
johna.clements
Established Member
They were obviously making allowance for any future movement by using stainless rebar. If the joint ever opens up the stainless rebar will still hold the old and new slabs together. Normal high yield bars would just just if there was water because there would be no cover. When we had finished the works above we just cut the studs flush and they will not rust with zero cover because stainless.
Deadeye
Established Member
Standard for sport climbing anchors and bolts; usually 12mm; I'd say about 60% of new bolts are now glue-in.
A pair of chain-equalised abseil bolts is a sight for sore eyes when you want to get down!
A pair of chain-equalised abseil bolts is a sight for sore eyes when you want to get down!
Doug71
Established Member
I recently used resin to fix these brackets in the concrete behind some kerbstones to make this post and chain fence around our car park. Worked really well but as said get everything ready and lined up because it does go off quick!
Generally upto M20 you would drill a hole 2mm bigger than the anchor, over M20 is a very large fixing and I wouldn't expect a DIYer to be using fixings that big.
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