Replacing newell post

[ChrisWiduWood]

In a similar fashion as recommended above, i used a locking mitre cutter for the cladding which made life a lot easier

 

[Woody Alan]

Nice work, I would have used that locking joint if I was a professional, but being an amateur I went with purchased on line cladding. Once I get the workshop set up properly I would be able to machine those joints more readily, then again I don't intend to repeat that particular job and not looking for stress taking on work for other clients. Roll on retirement to actually get round to making furniture.

 

[JonCamo]

Managed to fit the ground floor newel.
Had a look on the first floor and looks like I will need to leave the original base of the newel as no way of removing the whole thing without dismantling the entire stairs as can be seen from the photos.
Novice query:
The original newel is 80mm and the replacement I have bought is 90mm. I can clad the base with oak as previously advised in this thread.
Regarding connecting the replacement if I made a square tenon in the and cut a square mortice in the base would that be ok? Reason I ask is all the replacement posts I have seen seem to have turned spigots (of course I could just buy a spigotted one but wanting to use the plain one I have already bought)
If it isn't a stupid idea what width tenon advisable? The base is 80mm wide pine to mortice and the replacement is 90mm oak

Regards

Jon

 

[niall Y]

About 50mm should be fine. Probably a lot easier if you make your tenon round ( a spigot) That way the mortise will be easier to drill out. For the tenon, start square, then shape to octagon, then from 8 sides to 16. And then clean up to a round.

 

[JonCamo]

About 50mm should be fine. Probably a lot easier if you make your tenon round ( a spigot) That way the mortise will be easier to drill out. For the tenon, start square, then shape to octagon, then from 8 sides to 16. And then clean up to a round.

Thanks Niall.

 

[ChaiLatte]

For the tenon, start square, then shape to octagon...

Make just an octagon 50.5mm across the points and drive it in. That is why we have gap filling adhesives.

Consider adding a dowel in one quadrant to provide mechanical security against rotation.

 

[JonCamo]

That sounds good to me. Thanks

 

[toolsntat]

Just a note to consider while you are undertaking this job.
Are all the treads and risers in the stairs good and solid as now would be the best time to future proof against problems which may be just around the corner ?
Cheers, Andy

 

[JonCamo]

Will be checking as I go. Replaced some floor boards already at the top of stair

Thanks Andy

 

[JonCamo]

Regarding adhesive to glue the newel to its base, I have a tube of no more nails going spare. Would that do or something else advisable?

Regards

Jon

 

[Housey210]

Managed to fit the ground floor newel.
Had a look on the first floor and looks like I will need to leave the original base of the newel as no way of removing the whole thing without dismantling the entire stairs as can be seen from the photos.
Novice query:
The original newel is 80mm and the replacement I have bought is 90mm. I can clad the base with oak as previously advised in this thread.
Regarding connecting the replacement if I made a square tenon in the and cut a square mortice in the base would that be ok? Reason I ask is all the replacement posts I have seen seem to have turned spigots (of course I could just buy a spigotted one but wanting to use the plain one I have already bought)
If it isn't a stupid idea what width tenon advisable? The base is 80mm wide pine to mortice and the replacement is 90mm oak

Regards

Jon

Managed to fit the ground floor newel. Any pickies to follow?

 

[JonCamo]

Managed to fit the ground floor newel. Any pickies to follow?

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

i usually use an expanding glue of some sort (PU) , depending on how tight the post is going in you might need to make a cut or groove to allow the air to escape or it can stop the newel fully seating or pushing back out.