Replacement rip fence for Startrite TA275 DS

[W00dz]

Hello folks,

I've been reconditioning a startrite TA275 DS and found the original rip fence while rigid, exhibits a lot of play, perhaps 5⁰ either side of 90⁰ with the blade.
I was thinking of drilling & tapping two holes on the front of the fence. The idea would be to insert teflon plugs and adjustment bolts to minimise the play on the front rail.

Has anyone tried something similar? Or has another solution that worked?

The other option os to replace the rip fence altogether. What's been your experience? I would like to use rail extensions in the future so this option may limit that.

Thanks in advance!

 

[deema]

Would it be possible to add pictures to show what you think the problem is? I can’t understand if it’s the castings or how thr fabricated fence is attached to the castings that you feel is the cause of the problem.

 

[Ttrees]

Welcome to the forum @W00dz.
I've got one of those machines, and could speculate as to why the fence is
going askew.
Having fought with my fence rails by way of adding biscuit tin shims to the (mounting points)?
to get the fence in-line with the blade, it cut well after that......

It was only when I was doing some cuts with the blade @45 that I noticed a rough cut !
When I checked the squareness of the blade at this maximum tilt, with the fence a whole lot closer,
it was then apparent why I was doing a plonker with the fence rail shimming.

Luckily knowledgeable Deema spotted my passing comment, and mentioned adjustment for this being possible in the trunnion somewhere.
Yet to turn my attention to it, but my money is on that being the cause.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/startrite-table-saw-buying-advice.118504/#post-1536101All the best

Tom

 

[W00dz]

Would it be possible to add pictures to show what you think the problem is? I can’t understand if it’s the castings or how thr fabricated fence is attached to the castings that you feel is the cause of the problem.

Hi Deema,

There does appear to be any play between the castings and the fence. There is no slop or backlash I can discern on the adjustment either.
It's hard to see in a pic but I seem to have about a mm of diagonal play between the front casting and front rail.
That's throwing the far end of the fence off by approx 6mm or so.
The deviance is less when moving right to left so I might be able to compensate that way. The fence is a bit beat-up so II need ro tidy that up anyway.

 

[W00dz]

Welcome to the forum @W00dz.
I've got one of those machines, and could speculate as to why the fence is
going askew.
Having fought with my fence rails by way of adding biscuit tin shims to the (mounting points)?
to get the fence in-line with the blade, it cut well after that......

It was only when I was doing some cuts with the blade @45 that I noticed a rough cut !
When I checked the squareness of the blade at this maximum tilt, with the fence a whole lot closer,
it was then apparent why I was doing a plonker with the fence rail shimming.

Luckily knowledgeable Deema spotted my passing comment, and mentioned adjustment for this being possible in the trunnion somewhere.
Yet to turn my attention to it, but my money is on that being the cause.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/startrite-table-saw-buying-advice.118504/#post-1536101All the best

Tom

 

[W00dz]

Hi Ttrees,

Welcome to the forum @W00dz.
I've got one of those machines, and could speculate as to why the fence is
going askew.
Having fought with my fence rails by way of adding biscuit tin shims to the (mounting points)?
to get the fence in-line with the blade, it cut well after that......

It was only when I was doing some cuts with the blade @45 that I noticed a rough cut !
When I checked the squareness of the blade at this maximum tilt, with the fence a whole lot closer,
it was then apparent why I was doing a plonker with the fence rail shimming.

Luckily knowledgeable Deema spotted my passing comment, and mentioned adjustment for this being possible in the trunnion somewhere.
Yet to turn my attention to it, but my money is on that being the cause.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/startrite-table-saw-buying-advice.118504/#post-1536101All the best

Tom

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the welcome
I'm using the track as a reference rather than the blade as the blade is slightly off (~1mm) square with the top.
I haven't gotten as far as checking the blade against the top at 45⁰.

The casting is shaped like a 'C' when looking from the side. My thinking was to drill/tap three holes on both sides of the casting, at 9, 1 & 5 o'clock positions. With a nylon/Teflon plug and grub screws I could reduce or eliminate the play. Squaring the fence to rail, rail to top and blade to top should ensure that all is true.

I guess if I can get the fence square with the top (and blade as well) then I can live with bringing the fence right to left.
Of that doesn't help when I need to nudge the fence left-right for doing grooves and the like.

BTW I did come across that excellent checklist by Deema but after I bought the saw.
I'll also need to fabricate a crown guard and riving knife so there a bit of work left before I can use this safely.

Thanks, Eric

 

[deema]

The fence is locked into the bar at both ends. When you press down the locking lever it actuates a cam in the large front casting that locks it into the bar, and another in the hook. You adjust the alignment of the fence to the blade by slackening the bolt on top of the fabricated fence above the hook, aligning the fence and tightening the bolt again. Sometimes you need to slacken tge two bolts on the fabricated fence above the main casting to get it to align. DO NOT try to get it parallel with the blade its designed to have a slight taper away from the blade at the hook end for safety.
First thing to do it check the fence is locking on both ends, lock the fence and try tapping either end firmly with your hand. If it moves there is something wrong with the mechanism.

The castings should have a bit of slop on the rail or it wouldn’t slide smoothly.

 

[TomGW]

A similar thread from some time ago. I can thoroughly recommend a biesemeyer fence and have a Delta T30 fitted to my SIP 01332. There’s lots of diy threads/plans on the ‘net for something similar. Biesemeyer fence

 

[Sundaydriver]

I’ve been looking into this just recently. Mines a TA 275 , which it seems just means it has no sliding table. Exact same saw.
The fence is okish. I felt it was a step up from my kity 419 which I’d had for twenty years or so.
But now I’m looking at getting into finer work, I’m carefully considering how I can achieve more accuracy and in particular a micro adjust.
It’s very confusing researching on the net.
It seems like Incra is superb stuff. But, I’m concerned that it’s too restrictive in a small space, and I’m wondering how it would cope with occasional big stuff.
So I’ve started looking at the chunkier alternatives, like Scott & Sargent, Vega,
and at the same time I’d consider the wixey add on for digital readouts.

Have I missed any off ???

 

[SLM]

So I’ve started looking at the chunkier alternatives, like Scott & Sargent, Vega,
and at the same time I’d consider the wixey add on for digital readouts.

Have I missed any off ???

I think Steve Maskery did a video on one he designed. And the Axminster rip fence is as solid as you’d need on a saw like the TA 275, and easy to use.

 

[deema]

A correctly setup Startrite fence is very accurate, it’s my understanding that it’s the defacto saw for architectural modellers. I’ve sold a couple to them who say it’s the recommended saw!

 

[SLM]

A correctly setup Startrite fence is very accurate, it’s my understanding that it’s the defacto saw for architectural modellers. I’ve sold a couple to them who say it’s the recommended saw!

I can see why that would be so. But for someone with a fence with lost, worn or broken parts, and lacking the means to fabricate them, it quickly becomes more financially viable to replace the whole fence with an alternative.

 

[deema]

The fence doesn’t normally wear out, apart from the micro adjust. What I’ve found is the ‘usual’ problem when its not working is that it’s been tinkered with which has allowed the pin that holds the lever links (122, 126) together has allowed one of the links to drop off. It takes a bit of fiddling to put it back together again, but worth it.

 

[SLM]

The fence doesn’t normally wear out, apart from the micro adjust. What I’ve found is the ‘usual’ problem when its not working is that it’s been tinkered with which has allowed the pin that holds the lever links (122, 126) together has allowed one of the links to drop off. It takes a bit of fiddling to put it back together again, but worth it.

I’m sure you’re absolutely right. Various bits do get broken or lost though; I’ve seen most of the cast parts cracked, and other bits lost. Once you’re into replacement of parts, I can understand why people look to other options, due to the cost of replacement parts.

 

[Sundaydriver]

A correctly setup Startrite fence is very accurate, it’s my understanding that it’s the defacto saw for architectural modellers. I’ve sold a couple to them who say it’s the recommended saw!

Ok. Is there anything online to advise on fettling the fence please Deema ?

 

[deema]

@Sundaydriver Not that I’ve found! That’s not to say it’s not out there, but when I first started playing with machines I researched available data and couldn’t find anything. I’ve spoken to a couple of guys who used to work at Startrite and also through my engineering background worked out how the machines were setup.
Fortunately the fence is very simple, the only thing that’s not intuitive is that the small amount of play of the castings within the fabricated fence is how you set the fence up to the saw blade. The same method is used for the Wadkin AGS and BGS machines. Sometimes I can set them up in two minutes, sometimes it’s an afternoon of frustration.

 

[Sundaydriver]

So you mean the steel fence section that is bolted to the casting, right ?