Replacement block plane blade

[Routermonster]

Hi all

I bought a new Stanley 9 1/2 block plane a couple of years ago, and I haven't used it much since. The casting is poorly finished - full of grinding marks. The sole isn't flat, and the sides aren't square either. So I've started to flatten it ....

The blade doesn't hold an edge for very long. It's also very crudely machined, and although I've made some atampts to flatten it and polish it, I've given up (or am I just being lazy?).

I see that Ray Iles is advertising replacement blades on ebay, either "D2 high alloy tool steel" or "01 high carbon steel". They're both reasonably priced. The question is, which is better?

Is it worth perservering with this plane? Your advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Frustrated Les

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Frustrated Les,

I have a Stanley 60.5 and Record 09.5 block planes (20+ years old) and while they are nowhere near as good as Veritas or LN block planes, I have found that you can get them to work well if you spend some time on them. I flattened the soles of mine on a DMT coarse stone. If you mark the sole with a waterproof permanent marker it's easy to see how the flattening is going. Similarly with the blade, if you get the back nice and flat and polished it will work quite well.

However, if after this you are still not satisfied with the performance I would move up to a Veritas or LN rather than go for better blades - they really are much better in all respects and the blade adjusters work so well :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Agree here entirely with Paul. I had a Stanley and then Record block plane and whilst they are ok.ish, they aren't anywhere close to the performance of the LN offerings. Only my opinion but I would be inclined to stick the Stanley on fleabay and go for a LN - forget trying to upgrade the blade for the original block plane - Rob

 

[David C]

Ray makes very good blades.

If you can sharpen well, D2 will keep you working longer than 01, as will A2 from Ron Hock or L-N.

The latter are 2.4mm thick which is a huge improvement, in preventing chatter. Not sure of Ray's thickness. All these blades are harder than Stan.

The planes are not nice, but will improve dramatically with good rep blades and much tuning. It will never match L-N or Veritas.

David C[/b]

 

[jasonB]

I bought a LN blade for my old style stanley 60 1/2 and its is a big improvement, you will have to by direct from them as I have not seen them listed by the usual UK stockists.

Jason

 

[Ian Dalziel]

Routermonster,
If Ray offers D2 and 01...i would plump for his 01. I have some of Rays D2 blades and they hold an edge for ages but are a PIA to sharpen.

I had a load of Holteys.....Karl did a batch and i'll need to look if i have any left and i'll let you know when i get home.

I

 

[Evergreen]

Routermonster

I got rid of my Stanley block plane because it was an endless source of frustration. In particular, that little cam lever for locking the lever cap was so crude and feeble it was never going to work effectively - I've seen ring pulls on beer cans that are stronger and better made!

Upgrade to a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen, it'll be worth it in the long run.

Regards.

 

[Glen C]

That does not sound like a good block plane.

Lapping the sole could increase your level of frustration. It may end up being flat in only one throat plate position ... and go out-of-flat as soon as you adjust the plate. It doesn't sound well-machined elsewhere, so I doubt the throat plate will stay flat as it is moved.

I have found the older Stanley block planes (pre-1950) to be much better than the newer ones. Still, my main users are now the Lee Valley regular and low-angle blocks.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi again Les,

Although we've all poured scorn on your Stanley, I reckon it would still be worth flattening the sole and polishing the blade and keeping it for rough work, like trimming plastic edging strip, plywood, etc. It's what I use my Stanley and Record for and keep the Veritas or LN (if you go for them) for better work :wink:

Paul

 

[Evergreen]

Paul

I guess you're right. I suspect we've all got a few "sacrificial" chisels, saws and maybe an old plane or two that we drag out for those tasks where danger lurks. Recycled timber with the obligatory buried nails, old chipboard with the texture of gravel or some softwood that has knots as hard as flints. Yup, perhaps there's some scope for that Stanley yet!

REgards.

 

[gidon]

I have one of these too. I would flatten the sole a bit with 80g or 120g sandpaper on glass - wet and dry paper is propably better. Without wet and dry use a stiff brush to reguarly clear the swarf. Or a diamond stone as suggested above. Don't go mad on this - see how bad it really is first with some feeler gauges.
Then make sure you've sharpened the blade to the best of your ability. This is crucial. I wouldn't worry about getting the sides square - only important if you're wanting to use it for shooting. You can get pretty decent results with minimal effort.
I have a LN 60.5 too - obviously the LN is superior and a joy to use. But the Stanley really isn't too bad. I use it for DIY mainly now since getting the LN - but it's by no means a useless tool. I can still get a glass finish on many woods with the Stanley. Yes the blade needs more regular sharpening - but it's easy to sharpen .
In answer to your question I wouldn't bother getting a new blade - try the suggested improvements first!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[bugbear]

Without wet and dry use a stiff brush to reguarly clear the swarf.

I won't bore the group by repeating my flattening recommendaton.

But I will repeat my advice for dealing with dry metal filings.

Just put nice strong magnet in a plastic lid (like a deodorant cap).

It picks up AND HOLDS swarf (as opposed to a brush putting it in the air).

When you want to dump the swarf in a bin, just pull the magnet up out of the cap, and the swarf falls off.

BugBear

 

[Routermonster]

Dear All
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, and sorry for not replying earlier. I was away for a couple of days during the week, so I didn't get a chance to grind away until the weekend. The good news is that I've managed to flatten the sole, square the sides, and remove most of the horrid grinding marks. I've re-ground the bevel and polished the back of the blade, so it no longer looks like a crinkle-cut crisp. It's not perfect, but it's nearly there - much better than before.

The downside to all of this is that I've spent hours on the blinkin' thing, accompanied by loads of used-up wet'n'dry and a few pointed comments from SWMBO about all that mess on the kitchen table. For another 20 quid or so I could have bought a Veritas apron plane or the LN equivalent - but I didn't kmow better then. It really is sad that Stanley have let the quality of their products deteriorate like this. Never again! :x

Enough - rant over. As suggested, I'll use it for rough/DIY jobs and save up for a Veritas or LN low angle block plane. The slippery slope beckons!

Les

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Les

After all your persistence this is sure to be a plane you reach for before others. Even when you eventually buy a better quality block plane.

Get a better blade in the meantime. You will be amazed at what is possible.

Here's a bit of related fun: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=10747

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Routermonster]

Hi Derek

Thanks for the link. Obviously there's a moral in this story! :lol:

Les