Replacement blade for Makita track saw

[morrisminordriver]

Hi folks, I need to replace the blade in my Makita track saw, does anyone have a recommendation
s, either great blades or ones to avoid?
it’s for all round ripping (solid woods / ply).
thanks, Mike

 

[Bingy man]

I use freud for all my saws, screwfix do a twin pack which is good value. I haven’t been there for a while but if still available they are imo excellent quality.

 

[Spectric]

Dont forget to bear in mind the Kerf and offset, this may effect the rubber strip.

 

[Molynoox]

That's a good point spectric. I think the blade that comes on the saw is a special thin one, and they are expensive to replace. I need a new one too so interested in this thread
martin

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

If you havent heard of Key blades and fixings i can recommend their blades as top notch. Been using them for a few years now. UK made and a favourite for Mafell/festool owners who want quality but better value blades.
Have a look here track-saw

 

[Distinterior]

If you havent heard of Key blades and fixings i can recommend their blades as top notch. Been using them for a few years now. UK made and a favourite for Mafell/festool owners who want quality but better value blades.
Have a look here track-saw

I recently bought a pack of 3 of their Triple Chip blades for my Festool tracksaw and have been quite dissapointed with how short a time they keep their sharpness......I've only ever used Festool blades until recently and they do seem to last longer.
I've only been cutting 18mm Melamine Faced Chipboard and I know it's tough on the blades but I'm sure the equivalent Festool blades seemed to keep their edge longer.
I cut up 3 x 2800mm x 2070mm sheets into cabinet size components and I'm now about to change to the third blade.....Overall, not very impressed considering the blades still worked out at over £41 each.....!

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

I recently bought a pack of 3 of their Triple Chip blades for my Festool tracksaw and have been quite dissapointed with how short a time they keep their sharpness......I've only ever used Festool blades until recently and they do seem to last longer.
I've only been cutting 18mm Melamine Faced Chipboard and I know it's tough on the blades but I'm sure the equivalent Festool blades seemed to keep their edge longer.
I cut up 3 x 2800mm x 2070mm sheets into cabinet size components and I'm now about to change to the third blade.....Overall, not very impressed considering the blades still worked out at over £41 each.....!

Sorry to hear that, iv'e never used the triple chip blades so i cant comment on those. I agree that the Festool blades are better, but ive never felt disappointed with keyblades. Plus they always have some great deals. a single festool blade from screwfix is £54, while Keyblades are selling 5 of there own version for £99. 2204deal
id say thats unbeatable value.
Also I've always felt that any blade be it top brand or not never feels as good as the one that comes with the saw to begin with or is that just me!?

 

[Jonm]

Also I've always felt that any blade be it top brand or not never feels as good as the one that comes with the saw to begin with or is that just me!?

I think it says you always buy top quality saws.

I have a scheppach 216mm table saw. A new blade made it a much better saw. I also did a bit of fettling on the fence and made up a timber square to align the fence. The two combined transformed the performance.

With top quality kit it may be a bit like cars, suppliers send the best components to the manufacturer to go in new cars, the manufacturer can and does test them, they are concerned about warranty claims and reputation. Hence the new bits last longer than a replacement, even if it is OEM parts. I am not guessing this, it was told to me by a senior manager in a then major uk, safety critical, component manufacturer. Was a long time ago so perhaps things have changed.

 

[Spectric]

The very thin ones are aimed at the cordless tracksaws, with corded you can use the thicker blades. This info may help, keeping track offset the same will not impact the tracks rubber.

		cutting speed M/sec	Thickness	TPI	Teeth	Kerf mm	Hook
Makita		44.92477495						Offset for using track
B-07353		165	1.6	2.352021	48 ATB	2.2	8°	0.3
B-09167		165	1.0	1.17601	24	1.5	20°	0.25	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-09173		165	1.0	1.17601	24	1.5	20°	0.25	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-09260		165	1.6	1.372012	28	2.2	23°	0.3	Specialised
B-09232		165	1.0	1.960017	40	1.6	18°	0.3	Specialised
B-09276		165	1.6	2.352021	48	2.2	8°	0.3	Specialised
B-09298		165	1.6	2.352021	48 ATB	2.2	8°	0.3	Specialised
B-09307		165	1.7	2.744024	56	2.4	-3°	0.35	Specialised	Aluminium
B-56699		165	1.4	1.372012	28	2.00	15°	0.3	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-56708		165	1.25	2.352021	48	1.85	8°	0.3	Cordless plunge
B-56736		165	1.4	2.940026	60 TCG	2.00	5°	0.3
B-57320		165	1.0	2.744024	56	1.45	23°	0.225	Cordless plunge	Efficut
B-57342		165	1.0	2.744024	56 ATAF	1.45	23°	0.225	Cordless plunge	Efficut	MDF
B-62979		165	1.0	1.225011	25	1.4	23°	0.2	Efficut

 

[Molynoox]

The very thin ones are aimed at the cordless tracksaws, with corded you can use the thicker blades. This info may help, keeping track offset the same will not impact the tracks rubber.

		cutting speed M/sec	Thickness	TPI	Teeth	Kerf mm	Hook
Makita		44.92477495						Offset for using track
B-07353		165	1.6	2.352021	48 ATB	2.2	8°	0.3
B-09167		165	1.0	1.17601	24	1.5	20°	0.25	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-09173		165	1.0	1.17601	24	1.5	20°	0.25	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-09260		165	1.6	1.372012	28	2.2	23°	0.3	Specialised
B-09232		165	1.0	1.960017	40	1.6	18°	0.3	Specialised
B-09276		165	1.6	2.352021	48	2.2	8°	0.3	Specialised
B-09298		165	1.6	2.352021	48 ATB	2.2	8°	0.3	Specialised
B-09307		165	1.7	2.744024	56	2.4	-3°	0.35	Specialised	Aluminium
B-56699		165	1.4	1.372012	28	2.00	15°	0.3	Cordless plunge	Specialised
B-56708		165	1.25	2.352021	48	1.85	8°	0.3	Cordless plunge
B-56736		165	1.4	2.940026	60 TCG	2.00	5°	0.3
B-57320		165	1.0	2.744024	56	1.45	23°	0.225	Cordless plunge	Efficut
B-57342		165	1.0	2.744024	56 ATAF	1.45	23°	0.225	Cordless plunge	Efficut	MDF
B-62979		165	1.0	1.225011	25	1.4	23°	0.2	Efficut

Spectric how do we use that table, are you supposed to shim up the blade depending on its kerf difference to original blade?

 

[Spectric]

If you refer back to the drawing I posted it should become clearer. It is the edge of the kerf that initially cuts the rubber strip and in the table it is called the offset for using the track. So looking at the table, if you use any blade with say a 0.3 offset then the rubber will not be effected, so a blade which is 1.4 mm thick with a kerf of 2mm will have the same offset as a blade which is 1.6mm thick with a kerf of 2.2mm. I always use blades that will give me that 0.3mm offset because then I only change the rubber strip when worn or damaged and there are blades with 20, 40 & 48 teeth and that B-56736 with 60 teeth is specified for MDF and laminate.

 

[Molynoox]

If you refer back to the drawing I posted it should become clearer. It is the edge of the kerf that initially cuts the rubber strip and in the table it is called the offset for using the track. So looking at the table, if you use any blade with say a 0.3 offset then the rubber will not be effected, so a blade which is 1.4 mm thick with a kerf of 2mm will have the same offset as a blade which is 1.6mm thick with a kerf of 2.2mm. I always use blades that will give me that 0.3mm offset because then I only change the rubber strip when worn or damaged and there are blades with 20, 40 & 48 teeth and that B-56736 with 60 teeth is specified for MDF and laminate.

Aaah, I get it now - interesting to think about the blade thickness and the kerf combined creating that offset.
Thanks, martin

 

[Spectric]

Yes the blade thickness effects the offset because the datum face on the saw is fixed.

 

[Coyote]

Why worry about trying to match the new off-set? Unless the OP is planning on regularly swapping blades (which they didn’t say they were) surely it’s much easier to just move the splinter guard across and cut it back with the new blade?

 

[morrisminordriver]

Thanks for your replies folks, I think I might just replace with an original one, I won’t be doing a load more ripping so it’ll hopefully last a good long time. Thanks again, Mike

 

[pe2dave]

That's a good point spectric. I think the blade that comes on the saw is a special thin one, and they are expensive to replace. I need a new one too so interested in this thread
martin

Or buy a new rubber and stick it on? Cheaper than a blade?

 

[Molynoox]

Or buy a new rubber and stick it on? Cheaper than a blade?

It's an option.... But probably a good reason they come with thin kerf blades. I am assuming it's because it's battery powered and the thin kerf takes less power to push through the wood?
Martin

 

[pe2dave]

It's an option.... But probably a good reason they come with thin kerf blades. I am assuming it's because it's battery powered and the thin kerf takes less power to push through the wood?
Martin

Define 'thin'?
I don't know about Makita. What came with the saw?

 

[Molynoox]

Kerf on the blade that came with it is 2.2mm (plate is 1.6mm)
I assume that's thin as it's defined that way by Makita but I don't know.

 

[pe2dave]

Kerf on the blade that came with it is 2.2mm (plate is 1.6mm)
I assume that's thin as it's defined that way by Makita but I don't know.

That's the same as the Festool. I'll call it normal for want of a better word.
No reason not to fit a new rubber if the old one is 'wrong' /not straight.
This should fit. HTH