Good grief, Jacob ... why the hard time? I mentioned that this is a method for semi- or full production work, and that my go to is a chisel. The timbers I work are very hard, and it is not just that chopping quickly dulls them (and, yes, I freehand sharpen), but that it is hard on the body as well.
The recent project (Harlequin Table) had 8 drawers as well as a case in Hard Maple, which was mitred through dovetails. Actually, I don't worry about through dovetails as I use a fretsaw to remove most of the waste. All that remains is a little bit of paring. It is half-blind dovetails in hard woods that are the issue. Soft woods, such as Walnut, are easy work. Jarrah and Maple not so much.
The method I have attempted to outline is about work holding, per se. This is a simple jig. Very simple. Still, one has to guide the router freehand. There is workmanship of risk, not certainty.
It occurred to me later that a central issue that was concerning me was one I neglected to emphasise!
You have to ask why I set up the work holding so that I pull the trim router towards myself? Others may prefer pushing the router away from themselves. The reason for my direction is visibility - It seems easier to observe where the bit goes, especially as it runs along the boundary line. I can accept that others may feel they get this with the bit moving away from them, but this way works best for me.
Linked to this is my insistence in using a trim router. I have a few plunge router's (I like my old Elus). Visibility with one is better than with a trim router, however dust control is much poorer. To achieve the level of dust control I want (100%), I must use this trim router, and it must be pulled toward oneself, not pushed away, since only the front of the router has a window.
At the end of the day, use or do not use the method I offer here. Come up with an alternative. Most of the time I pare out waste, but there are times when it is more convenient to route it out. Whatever method I use, my goal is efficiency.
Regards from Perth
Derek
