Removing planer thicknesser marks quickly

[Lord Kitchener]

I've been approached about a hardwood kitchen, which would mean my getting a planer thicknesser and processing quite a lot of wood. In the past when I've done this I've sanded the ripples left by the thicknesser with a belt sander or a random orbit sander, but I wonder if it would be better to get a drum sander, or whether there is any other method forum members would suggest as a way of getting the job done reasonably quickly and effectively?

 

[Peter Sefton]

A drum sander would make the job a lot quicker, I guess it's down to cash flow and set up costs. But once you have it I am sure you will use it all the time.

Cheers Peter

 

[imageel]

Lacking the space nor funds for a drum sander, I usually remove the ripples using a sharp cabinet scraper.
Not the quickest of methods but it works for me
/Ed

 

[MatthewRedStars]

Yeah, at my old place we thicknessed solid 0.4 mm over finished and drum sanded it 0.2 mm off either side. If it was for a solid framed kitchen door we'd glue it up first and give it a tickle with a RO sander to remove the (minor) cross grain scratches.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Smoothing plane.

If the planer-thicknesser is removing the bulk of the waste, you'll only need to take off a couple of shavings with the hand-plane. I believe David Charlesworth works this way - bulk stock preparation by machine, finished with a well set up 5 1/2, set to take very thin shavings; any size of plane will do, but maybe a 4 is most people's choice. Any minor tear-out remaining can be tamed quickly with a cabinet scraper.

 

[matthewwh]

+1 for a hand plane.

If well set up you shouldn't need many passes to remove the ripples, it will leave a far better finish than sanding and adds another unique selling point.

 

[Racers]

Hand plane or scraper, a Record No 80 makes very short work of ripples.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

I'd look closely at the PT to find out why the finish is so bad.
If you have variable speed it's good to finish both sides through the thicknesser (steady pressure of the power-feed gives better finish) and at slowest speed.
Or if not possible - look at finishing over the top, very slowly.

 

[blackrodd]

I'd look closely at the PT to find out why the finish is so bad.
If you have variable speed it's good to finish both sides through the thicknesser (steady pressure of the power-feed gives better finish) and at slowest speed.
Or if not possible - look at finishing over the top, very slowly.

As above.
With sharp knives and both cutters (or 3) cutting, and no belt slip, You should get a good enough finish from the P.T.so sanding is kept to a minimum.
Regards Rodders

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Planer/thicknessers will always leave some evidence of cutter 'pitch' marks, since the action of cutting is by removing tiny little scallops. Surface direct from the planer is always planed or sanded smooth afterwards. Often the finish can make the pitch marks worse, water borne varnish especially, since it swells the wood fibres that have been compressed slightly with the percussive nature of the cutter block. Hand plane is my preference, but all evidence of the pitch marks must be removed.

Mike.

 

[No skills]

All the above about hand planning is quite right I think, but with the amount of timber to be processed (or the amount I am imagining) I think the wide belt sander with some unskilled labour feeding it through would make more sense. While that is happening you could be doing more productive things and getting the job done.

Plus your left with a very handy bit of kit for future jobs.

But I don't know **** all, so take with a pinch of salt