I haven't found that to be an issue to be honest. I use 'Benchdogs' Fence and Dogs with no problems on my top (made using the Parf Guide System Mk2).
Removing 1mm?
- Thread starter phil p
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I haven't found that to be an issue to be honest. I use 'Benchdogs' Fence and Dogs with no problems on my top (made using the Parf Guide System Mk2).
MARK.B.
Established Member
Could you put a slight taper on a piece of 20mm steel rod and knock it through 
as you only need 1/2 a mill all round it might just compress the the fibre's enough to give you a nice tight fit, or it could jam in the hole and pipper things up
as you only need 1/2 a mill all round it might just compress the the fibre's enough to give you a nice tight fit, or it could jam in the hole and pipper things up 
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I guess if you are regularly doing this sort of very particular thing then a bought clamping system may pay for itself - but not be a lot of use on the more general woodwork front.
What I tend to do is improvise - e.g. screw or pin something to the bench top, or to a piece of MDF, to make stops and add say folding wedges or a simple cam of some sort. All under 19mm for a job like yours (in so far as I can visualise it!)
It seems to me that many beginners pick up the idea that these systems are essential for general use, which of course they are not - and they are very expensive
Stevekane
Established Member
I dont know about these tops but if Im right they are lots of evenly spaced holes?
Could you make a router jig for use with a guide bush, a couple of wings with 19mm pins that would locate in the neighbouring holes and you would just work your way around, the final ones could be done with a couple of turns of tape atound the pins to bring them up to 20mm.
Sure you could buy a new one but if your not trying to make a living wheres the fun in that?
Could you make a router jig for use with a guide bush, a couple of wings with 19mm pins that would locate in the neighbouring holes and you would just work your way around, the final ones could be done with a couple of turns of tape atound the pins to bring them up to 20mm.
Sure you could buy a new one but if your not trying to make a living wheres the fun in that?
Oh my goodness, the answer to your conundrum is simplicity itself. I’m surprised nobody has suggested it so far.
What you need is a nice shiny metal working lathe. No problem adapting or marking any diameter of clamping system!
What you need is a nice shiny metal working lathe. No problem adapting or marking any diameter of clamping system!
It's hard enough to get the holes to line up in the first place - I think that with normal equipment you'll never be able to widen the current holes keeping the accuracy of the centres.
Easier to buy a replacement one.
Easier to buy a replacement one.
user22161
Established Member
Mine was made with Mk1 and the cutter is very slightly undersized. Obviously a known problem or they wouldn't have found it necessary to sell a reamer.
I have not found this, dogs fit the holes ok. Is this an issue with both MK1 & 2 Parf jigs?
I think for the cost of a new top with 20mm holes there is no point in pursueing enlarging 19mm holes, the one thing needed is accuracy and that I think can only be achieved by cutting the holes to the correct size first time. Any work involving alterations or remedial actions will take more time than just doing the job right first time.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Doing one long edge at a time.....
Sheet of board roughly 1000mm x 100mm pinned to bench.
Tack on (19mm or under) strips to snugly cradle workpiece with lipped edge just overhanging.
Trim lipping, turn and repeat.
Cheers Andy
Distinterior
Established Member
That's a lot of faffing around, especially if you have similar sections of material but at differing lengths & depths ( which is often the case....)
My point being, the clamping elements and low profile dogs make easy work of holding small sections such as I've described......Yes, a way around the problem can be found but these clamping systems are so much better and more efficient....And, the material is actually "clamped" rather than a friction fit as you described in your method.
Pictures below show an example of the set up....which is so adaptable and is only limited by the size of the MFT top....
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Just a thought. As it sounds like you are in a production setting - have you tried vacuum clamps - best investment I ever made for edge banding?
Distinterior
Established Member
I have been thinking about one,...Yes!
I have a few of their Gecko vacuum clamps for the tracks and they work a treat on finished/sealed materials....
Quick & easy to activate and release and no need for mechanical clamps
