Remote control socket for twin motor camvac

[JR147]

I’ve got one of the twin motor camvac extractors and I’m looking for recommendations for any wireless plug in sockets so I can start it with a remote control.

There’s a lot of cheaper ones available but I’m concerned with the draw if I have want to start it with both motors on. So I’m looking for something that can handle that. Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated. Cheers

 

[Doug71]

I have bought a few of the below from Amazon and have them around my shop on different extractors, one of them is on a twin motor Record DX 4000 which I imagine is similar to your camvac.

They do lots of different options with different remotes etc but I quite like these light switch style ones, you can just stick them on the side of the machine next to the machines on/off switch so you don't lose them and can easily turn them on when you start the machine.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEWENWILS-Switch-Control-Wireless-Programmable/dp/B07YKFD952
I don't know much about camvacs but presume it doesn't have a NVR switch?

 

[fleyh]

Hello @JR147
I'd recommend to pair one of those remote control switches @Doug71 linked with a contactor.
Doug71 must have been lucky if his setup works without a contactor. With Twin Motor Camvac I have gone through 3 different remote control switches - they all stopped working in a relatively short order. Contactor solved the issue.

Here is how a qualified electrician deals with this task:

 

[JR147]

Thanks @Doug71 and @fleyh. I’d seen those kind of switches on Amazon and liked them for similar reasons. But I was concerned that with both motors in use it might be too much so I will check out using a contactor as in the video. Although probably more messing around than I was hoping for!

 

[Doug71]

I've used other makes which have not lasted that long but have been using these for over a year now and so far they have performed faultlessly (obviously will stop working next week now ).

I have 2 of them on the extractors to my panel saw, a Record DX4000 2kw and Festool Ct26 1200w both operated by 1 switch

1 on a Jet DC1100 1.5kw to my PT and one on a really old Naerok extractor to my bandsaw, probably 1.5kw again.

They claim the max wattage is 3120w.

Like I say no problems so far but the contactor does look like the proper way to do it.

 

[Spectric]

You could try these Remote Controlled Switch Box IP66 - 3 Gang | Knightsbridge (IP663G) and for heavier loads use the remote control to switch a relay / contactor .

 

[sams93]

I use what is effectively one of these Amazon.co.uk

It's a master/slave extension lead, which means whenever I use the master socket (my tools), the slave one (the extractor) comes on. It is only rated for 13A overall however.

@Spectric and @fleyh - I wonder if I should actually set my system up using a contactor like fley linked to? I'll have to look into that...

 

[Spectric]

up using a contactor l

Does your extractor use a direct online starter (DOL) , if so you cannot just switch it on / off but will need to wire so on makes the start contact and stop breaks the contactor coil circuit.

You could have it hardwired so that a local two pole 20 amp switch controls a single remote socket that the extractor is pluged into.

 

[sams93]

Does your extractor use a direct online starter (DOL) , if so you cannot just switch it on / off but will need to wire so on makes the start contact and stop breaks the contactor coil circuit.

You could have it hardwired so that a local two pole 20 amp switch controls a single remote socket that the extractor is pluged into.

So my extractor has a very standard ‘on/off’ switch. It’s a metal dustbin type extractor. Switch is the same as like a Henry hoover, it’s not no volt release or anything like that.

So I leave the switch in the on position, there’s a plug socket it goes into which is hard wired into the ‘slave’ output of the device.

Then all of the tool outlets in my workshop are wired to the ‘master’ output of the device.

It works well, and there’s a 3 second lag for the switching off of the slave outlet so the extractor stays on for a short period as tools/machines spool down.

It’s all hard wired in to labelled outlets in my shed but wouldn’t be difficult to change, the switching system itself is in a junction box so easy to get at.

I’m thinking if I were to use this ‘contactor’ then the outlet which I currently plug the extractor into would be one of the switched outputs of the contactor, and the ‘tool outlets’ would have their lives route through the coil part of the contactor so that when current is being drawn the thing would switch the extractor outlet on.


First time I’ve come across one of these devices so go easy…

Edit:

I’ve just clocked that the contractors I can see online all seem to be for switching three phases, mine is a single phase system. Is there any reason that it wouldn’t work with just the single live being switched in the L1 position though?

 

[fleyh]

I’ve just clocked that the contractors I can see online all seem to be for switching three phases, mine is a single phase system.

Contactor linked in my original post is single phase.

 

[Sachakins]

Looking to use one if these on my 2 motor camvac. Will be wired in to each motor switch, so I can remotely control individual switch just one motor on, or both. Just need to check the individual switches first to see if their wiring is suitable, should be I think.
DieseRC 2 Channels Wireless Relay Remote Control Switch 433Mhz RF AC 240V 220V 10A Relay Receiver with 2 Transmitters Keyfob, Big Terminal Easy Wiring https://amzn.eu/d/21v2DpH

 

[fleyh]

Looking to use one if these on my 2 motor camvac. Will be wired in to each motor switch, so I can remotely control individual switch just one motor on, or both.

Not sure what model of Camvac you have but the Twin Motor I own requires exhaust/intake hole next to the Off motor to be plugged/blocked, otherwise (in 1 motor mode) you lose a ton of suction.
So, while you can technically rewire to control each motor remotely, you would also have to come up with some sort of manifold to close/open inactive motor's intake depending on single or twin motor operation. Also those intake caps that come with the camvac are not appropriate because they allow air through. Camvac designers clearly have not thought through the single/twin arrangement properly.

 

[Sachakins]

Not sure what model of Camvac you have but the Twin Motor I own requires exhaust/intake hole next to the Off motor to be plugged/blocked, otherwise (in 1 motor mode) you lose a ton of suction.
So, while you can technically rewire to control each motor remotely, you would also have to come up with some sort of manifold to close/open inactive motor's intake depending on single or twin motor operation. Also those intake caps that come with the camvac are not appropriate because they allow air through. Camvac designers clearly have not thought through the single/twin arrangement properly.

Never had to block it when using before. I'll have to check that out before getting the 2 channel switch. Thans for the heads up.

 

[MikeH]

I have an Axminster NVD750 which I think is the same as the dual camvac. I also use the Denwils socket that @Doug71 linked to. I have 5 of the lightswitch type sockets around the workshop to control it, 5 seems to be the limit as trying to pair a sixth knocks one of the other 5 off. Overall it works OK, sometimes the signal may get blocked and I just move the switch a bit and it works fine again.

However, I have also taken the precaution of connecting it through a timer switch, 13 amp. This means that when I first want to use the extractor I push a button on the top of the timer switch and that makes the circuit live for a limited time, you can set how long that is. This means that if I leave the shop the extractor cannot switch on with a "ghost" signal to the denwils and then run all night or whatever, which I had read can be an issue. I also use one of these for battery charging and my ambient dust filter so they auto switch off.

 

[JR147]

I have an Axminster NVD750 which I think is the same as the dual camvac. I also use the Denwils socket that @Doug71 linked to. I have 5 of the lightswitch type sockets around the workshop to control it, 5 seems to be the limit as trying to pair a sixth knocks one of the other 5 off. Overall it works OK, sometimes the signal may get blocked and I just move the switch a bit and it works fine again.

However, I have also taken the precaution of connecting it through a timer switch, 13 amp. This means that when I first want to use the extractor I push a button on the top of the timer switch and that makes the circuit live for a limited time, you can set how long that is. This means that if I leave the shop the extractor cannot switch on with a "ghost" signal to the denwils and then run all night or whatever, which I had read can be an issue. I also use one of these for battery charging and my ambient dust filter so they auto switch off.

That’s good advice. I seem to remember Rag N Bone Brown did a video on a similar issue where his extractor was running all weekend whilst he was away.

 

[Sachakins]

Not sure what model of Camvac you have but the Twin Motor I own requires exhaust/intake hole next to the Off motor to be plugged/blocked, otherwise (in 1 motor mode) you lose a ton of suction.
So, while you can technically rewire to control each motor remotely, you would also have to come up with some sort of manifold to close/open inactive motor's intake depending on single or twin motor operation. Also those intake caps that come with the camvac are not appropriate because they allow air through. Camvac designers clearly have not thought through the single/twin arrangement properly.

Hi, checked with record power and no need to block exhaust when only one motor running.

 

[RobTy]

I have one of these: Dust extractor remote control switch 230v and 110v

It's excellent, if a little pricey. Proper contactor job.

 

[JR147]

I have one of these: Dust extractor remote control switch 230v and 110v

It's excellent, if a little pricey. Proper contactor job.

They look really good and no wiring needed!

 

[fleyh]

Hi, checked with record power and no need to block exhaust when only one motor running.

Unless you model has some some sort of a physical separation between two motors (and some clever routing in the bucket to the main intake hole) I find this hard to believe.

It is easy to check if there is any benefit in blocking inactive motor hole.
Step 1: with both exhaust holes unblocked - switch Camvac on with 1 motor and feel the suction at the end of the hose
Step 2: block (completely) exhaust hole next to inactive motor and switch the other motor on again and check suction power at the end of the hose.
You can go more scientific if you want and instead of just feeling the suction - try lifting various weights using just suction power.
To get even more scientific - try different hose diameters. I feel the most difference when using 32mm hand tool hose (i.e. the one which you'd expect to use with single motor)

 

[Sachakins]

Unless you model has some some sort of a physical separation between two motors (and some clever routing in the bucket to the main intake hole) I find this hard to believe.

It is easy to check if there is any benefit in blocking inactive motor hole.
Step 1: with both exhaust holes unblocked - switch Camvac on with 1 motor and feel the suction at the end of the hose
Step 2: block (completely) exhaust hole next to inactive motor and switch the other motor on again and check suction power at the end of the hose.
You can go more scientific if you want and instead of just feeling the suction - try lifting various weights using just suction power.
To get even more scientific - try different hose diameters. I feel the most difference when using 32mm hand tool hose (i.e. the one which you'd expect to use with single motor)

I'll give that a try before getting the switch, thanks.