Refurbing metal plane bodies

[Smudger]

I scored a couple of Records at the weekend (4 and 4 1/2) for a score the pair. They are not in bad nick, really, (the 4 1/2 needs a new iron) but the finish on the bodies is chipped. Having seen some of the beautiful refurbs here I thought I might have a go at stripping and refinishing them and also a block plane which has lost most of its - what? paint? Japanning?

There was a guy in the toolshop (there's always one, isn't there?) who reckons I should find a suitable colour of engine paint and spray them, having used a rustproofing undercoat. I didn't follow all the details of that - it goes on milky and dries clear apparently - anyone got any ideas on what that might be?

Would engine paint be suitable or would I have to go for full Japanning? In which case where would I find Record blue Japanning?

 

[Paul Chapman]

a rustproofing undercoat. I didn't follow all the details of that - it goes on milky and dries clear apparently - anyone got any ideas on what that might be?

Would engine paint be suitable or would I have to go for full Japanning? In which case where would I find Record blue Japanning?

He could have been referring to Ku-Rust (I think that's how they spell it). I've used it in the past and it seems quite good. For a finish, I've always used Japlac (made by International Paint and available at places like B&Q). Gives a nice finish, dries fast and they do a dark blue which is very much like the old Record blue.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Alf]

fwiw the original Record blue was apparently originally cellulose paint and then subsequently stove enamel - by the nature of the ingredients I think you can have Japanning in any colour as long as it's black.

Cheers, Alf

 

[tnimble]

The dark blue like the Record planes you make your Japanning as follows:

Dissolve 2 1/2 ounce of shellac with 1 pint of methylated spirits. Shake or mix the solution freequent for 2 to 3 days. Then filter the solution through a flannel bag, coffee or thee filter.

Mix some Prussian blue pigment with spirits of turpentine (not mineral turpentine) and grind them togehter to a smooth mixture. Add the dissolved shellac while stirring.

Apply about 3 to 4 very thin coats on the plane casting after cleaning and de-greasing them. After each layer of coat bake the plane in an oven heated at 250° to 300° F for about an hour.

After baking the blue will be a bit darker. When the blue is still to bright add very little ivory black pigment. For shellac use a light coloured flakes otherwise the blue will have an orange, red or brown tone.


I haven't done the blue japanning my self yet. I did a red japanning with Cochineal pigment. The result was a bit brownish due to a slightly to high baking temperature and this pigment being very hard due to its transparency. Next time I will use vermilion instead at a lower temperature. Altough the colour is a bit off the result is excelent very hard and scratch proof.

 

[Smudger]

Thanks everybody - I think it's down to B&Q for some Kurust and Japlac tonight - and possibly a little sandblasting machine? Or a bottle of Nitromors?

 

[Racers]

Hi, Smudger

If you visit wilcos you will find they do a tin of blue spray paint that works very well on records, I have done one my self. Nitromors a good wash a quick bake in the oven to dry it out and a couple of coats while its still warm and jobs a good 'un.


Pete

 

[woodbloke]

On the recent refurb that I did on the Record No4 in my avatar, I was lucky enough to find a tin of Hammerite Smoothrite which was pretty much the correct shade of Record blue, coupla coats was what I used and I stripped off the old paint with Nirtomoors and then degreased it with meths before painting. Doing one of these is quite good fun but very dirty, your hands and fingernails will stay ingrained with black goo for weeks on end. I also recommend that to do a decent job you'll need to strip the plane down to all the component parts and that includes the lateral adjusting lever which will separate into 3 bits so you can clean off all the crappy nickle plating. The little knob at the end will have to be re-made and a new round disc rivetted on......have fun, from someone who's been there :wink: :roll: :lol: - Rob