Refinishing a small side table top

[Johnwa]

Morning all, I noticed via swmbo that the top of a 50 year old darkish oak side table that we own is looking a bit careworn and needs refinishing, not something that I've done a lot of so I thought that I'd seek guidance from those more knowledgeable than myself. The finish doesn't look laquered more like a shellac finish but it has been polished to within an inch of its life using proprietary wax polishes and I suspect "Pledge" type polishes too. I know that these silicon polishes cause refinishing problems, hence my question. I propose to refinish with a danish oil and several coats of furniture wax, what problems might I encounter and more importantly how do I get round them. I realise that not every problem can be envisaged but any information will be gratefully read and digested. Cheers all. John

 

[yetloh]

Difficult one. I would first clean it as thorughly as possible with something like meths which should get rid of old wax etc. My starting point for finishing over old finishes is that shellac will take over pretty much anything and pretty much anything will take over shellac. So, shellac first and then your chosen finish. My personal view is that furniture wax is a waste of time unless you like polishing. Much better to start off with the level of sheen/shine you want to finish with. Both Danish oil and shellac are pretty adjustable in this respect by cutting back with wire wool or burnishing. Furniture polish simply raise the level of shine until it oxidises/ wears away. Why bother?

No doubt others will disagree but that's my two pennoth for what its worth.

Jim

 

[Johnwa]

Yetloh, thanks for your response. What would you put over Shellac or would you just leave it as is?

 

[profchris]

Pure shellac can look lovely, but a hot mug leaves an indelible mark and water damages it unless you wipe it off quite fast. If anything will stand on this table then Danish oil goes nicely over shellac.

If it gets heavy use like in a kitchen then polyurethane varnish is tougher.

 

[Johnwa]

Profchris thank you for responding to my query. I didnt realise that danish oil would "take" applied over shellac. I tend to use sanding sealer, would that replace pure shellac for this application do you know?

 

[aet1]

I've just had one to do, cleaned, light sanding, oil based polyurethane.
Then I did it a way that worked.
Took off the patchy varnish I'd put on, cleaned and a light sanding, then wiped on shellac sanding sealer, a very light wire wool and finished with water based polyurethane. Good finish and I can put my coffee cups down on it.
Not my finish of choice for something more decorative but very functional.

 

[yetloh]

I agree with profchris and aet1. Sanding sealer will be fine. How about a photo of the finished article?

Jim

 

[Jacob]

I'd strip it with Nitromors or similar, no sanding unless it's very rough, and then oil, linseed, danish etc. But not wax and oil; one or the other but not both. If it's only 50 years old it'll probably be light colour under the varnish

 

[yetloh]

I'd strip it with Nitromors or similar, no sanding unless it's very rough, and then oil, linseed, danish etc. But not wax and oil; one or the other but not both. If it's only 50 years old it'll probably be light colour under the varnish

But surely the whole point from the original post was that the intention was to just refinish the top so that it remains in keeping with the rest of the piece.

On the subject of silicones, I know they can be very persistent. A friend worked for a chemical company that had worked extensively with them. When they wanted to move on to other work requiring a silicone free environment, they found the building was so heavily contaminated with them that the best option was to demolish it and rebuild. No doubt it was also an opportunity to update, but a sobering thought nonetheless.

Jim

 

[profchris]

I agree with profchris and aet1. Sanding sealer will be fine. How about a photo of the finished article?

Jim

Yes, any shellac based sanding sealer is basically just shellac and alcohol. Wipe on a few coats - tip, never go back, it dries to tacky in seconds. Catch any missed spots next time round.

 

[Johnwa]

Thanks guys, I do want to retain the darkish oak colour as the legs and base are fine, just need a good cleaning. I think I'll give it a degrease with Flash or something of that ilk, a wipe down with white spirits then a gentle sanding and finally either sanding sealer or danish oil. Just pray that the fish eyes keep away otherwise its a sanding down to bare wood and restaining job.

 

[aet1]

It was fish eyes that made me try water based varnish over the sanding sealer so much easier to apply without bubbles or fish eyes. I didn't mention I stained the top like you I wanted to match the existing legs.

 

[Johnwa]

AET1, thanks for that. I think I'll try something along the same lines as yourself. Thanks to everyone for their advice. John

 

[aet1]

I'll keep my fingers crossed, and enjoy give my address in case it goes wrong