Record Sabre 350 and greenwood cutting

[tbsb33]

Hi and Good Morning to all,
I was wondering if there are any users of the Record Sabre 350 who regularly cut greenwood logs.
I would like to know if the 1.5kw motor is up to cutting 250mm green logs.
Most of what I usually get are around 200 mm but want to be able to cut 250mm on occassions.
I intend using Tuffsaws blades as I do on my present saw.
Any feedback appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Orraloon]

I dont have that brand but my saw is 1.5kw. The saw has the power to cut that much wood and green is a bit softer too. I take it you will be using some kind of sled to hold the log. Odd shaped bits of wood need to be held so they can not roll during the cut. Broken blades and injuries can happen. Another thing to be aware of is the blade can sometimes get gummed up with resin when cutting green wood and can be a real chore to clean up.
Regards
John

 

[Gordon Tarling]

I have a Sabre 350 and have cut bits of 250mm oak sleeper with no problem at all, though I don't think it was green wood. Don't think you'll have much problem with the appropriate Tuffsaws blade. Just don't leave any oak sitting on the table!

G.

 

[RichardG]

I regularly cut 190mm (saw capacity) green logs on my RP300 using a toughsaws sabre cut blade, the extra set really helps clear the sticky dust, that's only 1000W. Take it slow and steady and stop cutting if things start getting bogged down, withdraw and then start again.

I've just upgraded to the sabre 350 so will be testing this in the very near future on some Ash that I couldn't refuse. I'll report back if you're intersted?

 

[tbsb33]

I dont have that brand but my saw is 1.5kw. The saw has the power to cut that much wood and green is a bit softer too. I take it you will be using some kind of sled to hold the log. Odd shaped bits of wood need to be held so they can not roll during the cut. Broken blades and injuries can happen. Another thing to be aware of is the blade can sometimes get gummed up with resin when cutting green wood and can be a real chore to clean up.
Regards
John

Hi John
Thanks for this info. Yes I will be using use some form of sled as I have seen what cah happen !
I have had some gumming up on my old 12" bandsaw and have cleaned the blade with brake cleaner.
Power supply disconnected obviously. My old saw is only 750w and struggles on anything above 150/160mm.
Regards Tim

 

[tbsb33]

I have a Sabre 350 and have cut bits of 250mm oak sleeper with no problem at all, though I don't think it was green wood. Don't think you'll have much problem with the appropriate Tuffsaws blade. Just don't leave any oak sitting on the table!

G.

Hi Gordon
Sounds encouraging thanks. Definitely will use Tuffsaws as I do now.
Are you generally happy with your sabre 350 ?
Regards Tim

 

[tbsb33]

I regularly cut 190mm (saw capacity) green logs on my RP300 using a toughsaws sabre cut blade, the extra set really helps clear the sticky dust, that's only 1000W. Take it slow and steady and stop cutting if things start getting bogged down, withdraw and then start again.

I've just upgraded to the sabre 350 so will be testing this in the very near future on some Ash that I couldn't refuse. I'll report back if you're intersted?

View attachment 121245

 

[tbsb33]

Hi Richard
I have an old 12" bandsaw which is quoted as having 750w motor.
It struggles even when being fed really slowly. I have a Tuffsaws Sabrecut fitted also.
I would definitely be interested in how you get on with the Ash.
I am planning on going to Yandles Record promo show later this month and have a hands on with the sabre.
Thanks Tim

 

[Gordon Tarling]

Hi Gordon
Sounds encouraging thanks. Definitely will use Tuffsaws as I do now.
Are you generally happy with your sabre 350 ?
Regards Tim

Hi Tim,
Yes, generally very happy with my Sabre 350 - I do feel that the dust collection could be better, but that may be because I only have a shop vac hooked up to the 100mm port - need to try it with my RP dust extractor that's got the 100mm port.

G.

 

[tbsb33]

Hi Tim,
Yes, generally very happy with my Sabre 350 - I do feel that the dust collection could be better, but that may be because I only have a shop vac hooked up to the 100mm port - need to try it with my RP dust extractor that's got the 100mm port.

G.

Hi Gordon
I did read a review saying extraction not too good.
I have a Camvac twin motor extractor and I am hoping that will be powerfull enough.
Rgds Tim

 

[RichardG]

Managed to do a few cuts today using a Tuffsaws Sabre Cut 1/2 blade at 3 tpi.

I had absolutely no problems cutting the Ash logs at the full 285mm capacity, there was no motor slowdown just lots of dust. The wood is fairly wet only felled 2 weeks ago but of course is not as hard as other woods.

Thoughts so far.

1. The guides work well but it's hard to set them correctly, particularly the lower set, due to poor visibility. The plastic lower blade finger guard came off straight away and I'm tempted to remove a bit of the upper guard as well, but not yet! May get easier as I use it and get to know the viewing points.

2. The dust extraction needs work. When cutting the Ash logs with the grain you get whispery shavings which clump together and quickly blocked the lower extraction port and then completely filled up the bottom wheel cavity! Removing the plastic finger grill from the extraction port solved this but dust extraction could still be better.

3. I've hit my hip and head several times on the sticking out metal fence bar, I'm sure I'm going to have a nice bruise tomorrow! Hopefully the pain will train my muscle memory to miss it or a lump of foam is going on the end.

4. Setting the fence bar parallel to the table and at the correct height whilst also getting the rule at zero is very, very frustrating. I'm still 1mm out on the rule at the moment.

5. I can't yet see the point of the cam action on the fence, seems very complicated and the only use I can see is cutting tapers? What am I missing?

Otherwise great bandsaw, only wish I'd bought it before Covid when it was £1000!

 

[tbsb33]

Managed to do a few cuts today using a Tuffsaws Sabre Cut 1/2 blade at 3 tpi.

I had absolutely no problems cutting the Ash logs at the full 285mm capacity, there was no motor slowdown just lots of dust. The wood is fairly wet only felled 2 weeks ago but of course is not as hard as other woods.

Thoughts so far.

1. The guides work well but it's hard to set them correctly, particularly the lower set, due to poor visibility. The plastic lower blade finger guard came off straight away and I'm tempted to remove a bit of the upper guard as well, but not yet! May get easier as I use it and get to know the viewing points.

2. The dust extraction needs work. When cutting the Ash logs with the grain you get whispery shavings which clump together and quickly blocked the lower extraction port and then completely filled up the bottom wheel cavity! Removing the plastic finger grill from the extraction port solved this but dust extraction could still be better.

3. I've hit my hip and head several times on the sticking out metal fence bar, I'm sure I'm going to have a nice bruise tomorrow! Hopefully the pain will train my muscle memory to miss it or a lump of foam is going on the end.

4. Setting the fence bar parallel to the table and at the correct height whilst also getting the rule at zero is very, very frustrating. I'm still 1mm out on the rule at the moment.

5. I can't yet see the point of the cam action on the fence, seems very complicated and the only use I can see is cutting tapers? What am I missing?

Otherwise great bandsaw, only wish I'd bought it before Covid when it was £1000!

Hi Richard
Thanks for finding the time to cut some wood and send this info.
Sounds good that you could cut to max height without any power loss.
Shame the guides are difficult, Record use easy adjustment as a selling point !
Are the shavings with the grain similar to cutting down grain with a chain saw ?
That seems to clog everything. Gordon mentioned the dust extraction on his Sabre and others have also.
Maybe needsa some mods in that area ?
I thought the fence bar looks pretty long and in the way. I presume it is for using the fence on the opposite side?
The fence sounds like fun I will ask the logic behind the cam on the fence when I get to Yandles. They might know.
Totally agree about the price. I have been waiting to try and buy a BS400 for ages, now all the prices have gone up !
I have given up on the BS400 due to lack of availability and also being told my power supply would not cope with it.
Record say 13amp is ok and Yandles say it needs 16amp. The Sabre 350 is only 20mm short on height of cut and from what you say
copes at full height so would suit my needs fine. I appreciate you were not cutting hardwood but I never really cut anything too hard.
Talking of cutting, did you cut all the tree in the picture your using that Makita cordless saw? Is that one of their 36v saws. How many batteries did that get through ?
Thanks again for all the info
Best regards Tim

 

[RichardG]

Tim,

Adjusting the guides is easy and I'm sure once you get use to where you can see the blade it will become easier, the smaller the blade the harder it seems to be to view the blade.

Yup, the shavings are exactly the same as when cutting down the grain with a chainsaw, just much finer. They're too long to fit through the finger grill so block it and then the next one compounds the issue. I was quite impressed how much the bandsaw managed to stuff inside the lower wheel cavity, reminded me of a bailer! I'm going to try to try the extraction method used by Steve Maskery using drainage pipe direct to cutting area.

Yes the long bar is for moving the fence to the other side when you do cuts an an angle. Too be fair trying to do an angled cut without the fence that side is very difficult but I'm not sure if the number of times I do that warrants the bar sticking out all the time. A perfect solution would be how record power extends the bars on their lathes, a simple tenon and screw so it could be removed would be brilliant.

That 36v chainsaw didn't cut up all that but I've done some big jobs jobs with it. I have 4x5Ah batteries so 2 on being used, 2 being charged. It's so nice not having to start the saw and the whine of it during use, and it will quite happily cut the full depth of the bar but you do have to take it a bit slower. Been very impressed with the Makita stuff in general, tempted to replace my petrol pole hedge trimmer with a battery version as well.

A couple of other points came up which I forgot to mention. Firstly the machined edges of the mitre slots and the hole for the blade plate in the cast iron top were like razors, had to file these off, I'm surprised they would have got CE approval with edges so sharp so must be manufacturing QA. The blade plate usefully has two grub screws to adjust the height but the plate is so bendy that it just flexes so I will be cutting a wooden one.

Richard

 

[Cabinetman]

I know you will laugh at this but for stuff up to about 150mm these work brilliantly- and safely. I know it says 100mm but in practice it will do more. I thought it was a bit of a joke till I used one. Ian

 

[tbsb33]

Tim,

Adjusting the guides is easy and I'm sure once you get use to where you can see the blade it will become easier, the smaller the blade the harder it seems to be to view the blade.

Yup, the shavings are exactly the same as when cutting down the grain with a chainsaw, just much finer. They're too long to fit through the finger grill so block it and then the next one compounds the issue. I was quite impressed how much the bandsaw managed to stuff inside the lower wheel cavity, reminded me of a bailer! I'm going to try to try the extraction method used by Steve Maskery using drainage pipe direct to cutting area.

Yes the long bar is for moving the fence to the other side when you do cuts an an angle. Too be fair trying to do an angled cut without the fence that side is very difficult but I'm not sure if the number of times I do that warrants the bar sticking out all the time. A perfect solution would be how record power extends the bars on their lathes, a simple tenon and screw so it could be removed would be brilliant.

That 36v chainsaw didn't cut up all that but I've done some big jobs jobs with it. I have 4x5Ah batteries so 2 on being used, 2 being charged. It's so nice not having to start the saw and the whine of it during use, and it will quite happily cut the full depth of the bar but you do have to take it a bit slower. Been very impressed with the Makita stuff in general, tempted to replace my petrol pole hedge trimmer with a battery version as well.

A couple of other points came up which I forgot to mention. Firstly the machined edges of the mitre slots and the hole for the blade plate in the cast iron top were like razors, had to file these off, I'm surprised they would have got CE approval with edges so sharp so must be manufacturing QA. The blade plate usefully has two grub screws to adjust the height but the plate is so bendy that it just flexes so I will be cutting a wooden one.

Richard

Hi Gordon
If I end up getting the Sabre350 I will watch out for the sharp edges
Not sure about the Steve Maskery mod but have heard of others putting platic pipe under the table.
I will investigate that one.
The idea of the bar being an extension which could be taken on and off sounds good.
Trouble is to do it now would loose some length and and measurements marked on it.
I was considering the Makita saw a while back but have stuck with my Bosch corded one for the moment.
Tools list seems to get longer rather than shorter.
Having worked on heavy plant for most of my life I have rather a lot of spanners and tools.
After 50 years got fed up with the smell of Diesel, grease, Hydraulic and gear oil.
Now just love the smell of wood
I'll let you know how I get on at Yandles with the Sabre.
Regards Tim

 

[tbsb33]

I know you will laugh at this but for stuff up to about 150mm these work brilliantly- and safely. I know it says 100mm but in practice it will do more. I thought it was a bit of a joke till I used one. Ian
View attachment 121357

Hi Ian
Yes I must admit I have seen these advertised but not really entertained them.
If I get a chance i will try one.
Thanks Tim

 

[tbsb33]

Hi Richard
Just to update you.
I went to Yandles and looked at the Sabre 350 as they were having a "Record Focus Day" with some offers on machines and timber.
The build quality of the machine on display was I felt pretty good. The Record rep spent a long time showing me the machine and answering
my long list of questions. I decided to place an order for a Sabre 350 which should arrive sometime in the next few weeks. I was give an final push
by the sale of a Startrite 352 not far from me which went for over £1200.00 ! They either go for silly money or disappear before the bidding ends.
Sorry I didn't remeber the question about the camlock on the fence until I got home ! I will have a closer look when it arrives.
All the best Tim

 

[tbsb33]

Hi Richard
Finally got the Sabre 350 and have now set it up. Generally very pleased with it but agree that the fence bar is an issue. It now has a bright yellow ball fitted!
If I find it causes problems it will be removed and stored away. Still not sure why they needed the elaborate cam adjuster on the fence but seems to work.
I hardly ever use a fence so won't bother me to much.
Fingers crossed the saw will last a few years !!
All the best Tim

 

[fezman]

Hi Tim,
I've owned the saw since they first came out and never needed to complete an angled cut, but the number of times I have either caught my back or banged my head on that bar extending out was far too many. So after one fairly hefty bump last summer, I got out the grinder and a S/S cutting disc and now the bar is flush with the table. My space is quite small, and it has made a significant amount of difference about moving around and not ending up catching myself.

I also have a nice RP paper weight for my office

Ian

 

[RichardG]

Still not sure why they needed the elaborate cam adjuster on the fence but seems to work.

Well I now know the idea behind it...



5:47 ish

So after one fairly hefty bump last summer, I got out the grinder and a S/S cutting disc and now the bar is flush with the table.

I'm so close to doing this but can't quite bring myself to make that cut. I'm tempted to take it to an engineering friend and get him to part it off and then turn a small tenon and a thread so it can be reattached....probably never use it but it will make me feel better.