Record Power 350 sabre

[Mikebart]

I have the above machine and thought I saw a thread on here about having to adjust the upper rear bearing when lifting the guard up.
Not a major issue but RP just said you will have to adjust it each time you change the height, it looks like the guard and hence the bearing is not staying in contact with the blade.
Shimming the guide is possibly the answer, has anybody experienced this or solved it.
Many thanks.

 

[MikeK]

I have the Record Power BS350S that I modified to nearly the same components as the Sabre 350, specifically the upper and lower guide bearings. Once I set the upper rear bearing for the blade I'm using, I don't have to adjust it no matter what height I set the guide bearing block.

 

[Mikebart]

Hi
That’s exactly what I should be able to do. It’s not a major issue and easy to do but ideally it should not be necessary.
The only thing I can see to cause this issue is that the actual arm that the bearing block is mounted on is not vertical in relation to the back of the blade, because if you set the bearing correctly at the top it pushes the blade forward when you drop the guard/bearing assembly and the reverse if you lift it up at the top you get a gap so the bearing is not having the effect it should have.
So would assume if I shim the the blade guard assembly behind the locking knob it should result in the guide staying vertical as it’s lowered.
Then adjust top and bottom bearings to suit.
There is about a 1mm gap between bearing and rear of blade so if the guide can rise and fall 300mm that’s a discrepancy of 1mm over a travel of 300mm so it’s not a large amount and a couple of thin shims will cure the issue.
So will be cutting up a bake bean can tomorrow for some shim material.
But I have to say apart from this minor issue the saw is a brilliant bit of kit well worth the cost.
Hope this all makes sense.

 

[Mikebart]

As I don’t appear to have any blade tracking issues I have to assume my blade is running correctly on its wheels.
Couple of images of part assembly from Rp manual
Shim behind item 31 slider bar

 

[pgrbff]

I have the Record Power BS350S that I modified to nearly the same components as the Sabre 350, specifically the upper and lower guide bearings. Once I set the upper rear bearing for the blade I'm using, I don't have to adjust it no matter what height I set the guide bearing block.

I hope you don't mind me asking but do you think the Sabre 350 is significantly better than the Hammer N2-35? It looks very similar but has upper and lower bearing guides, the Hammer has lower wood blocks I believe, cast iron wheels rather than cast Aluminium, and a more powerful motor. The record is similar in price in the UK, but I've seen it at well over €2000 in Italy.

 

[MikeK]

I hope you don't mind me asking but do you think the Sabre 350 is significantly better than the Hammer N2-35? It looks very similar but has upper and lower bearing guides, the Hammer has lower wood blocks I believe, cast iron wheels rather than cast Aluminium, and a more powerful motor. The record is similar in price in the UK, but I've seen it at well over €2000 in Italy.

I've only see the N2-35 on the Internet and the Felder catalogs that I keep getting, but it looks like it might share the same factory as the Record Power or Rikon bandsaws. I suppose Felder didn't want to create an entry level product line below the Hammer line, maybe the Mallet. However, if they did, I think the N2-35 would be part of it.

Be careful when comparing the price of the N2-35 and the S350. The N2-35 does not come with a base, power cable connector, or blades. The lack of blades is not necessarily a bad thing since included blades tend to be of poor quality.

Given the choice, I would buy the S350 over the N2-35 and buy blades from Tuff Saws.

 

[pgrbff]

Thanks. I can't help feeling Felder would maybe be higher spec, even if only slightly, than record and unfortunately, I go by looks and the Hammer to my eye looks simpler.
I'm not too worried about blades as I still find Tuffsaws best.
I'm aware the base isn't included, but not difficult to construct if I want to save a little.
The motor and wheel material concerns me the most, although I'm only comparing power and not necessarily quality. I imagine the extra momentum of iron wheels would be beneficial.
I've seen the Sabre for sale in France at a reasonable cost but not so easy to find in Italy.
Did you buy your saw in Germany? I'm aware it wasn't the Sabre,

 

[Bojam]

I hope you don't mind me asking but do you think the Sabre 350 is significantly better than the Hammer N2-35? It looks very similar but has upper and lower bearing guides, the Hammer has lower wood blocks I believe, cast iron wheels rather than cast Aluminium, and a more powerful motor. The record is similar in price in the UK, but I've seen it at well over €2000 in Italy.

Are you in Italy? For just over €2000 you can buy a Minimax S45N from MakXilia (see here) based in Pescara. A better saw than the RP Sabre or the Hammer N2-35. Worth the investment IMO if your wallet can stretch to it.

 

[MikeK]

Did you buy your saw in Germany? I'm aware it wasn't the Sabre,

I bought my BS 350S from a German distributor, Maschinenhandel Meyer GmbH Co KG five years ago for €799. They have a Sabre 350 now for €1,349, but it is a "B Ware" product. This means it is fully functional but has blemishes, was an open box, the packaging is missing, is a returned item, or is a factory reconditioned item. B Ware items cannot be sold as new, but should come with the same manufacturer's warranty.

Over time, I have made several modifications to make it nearly a Sabre 350. Here is the first thread with my modifications. Each thread has links to the other threads.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...ide-upgrade-using-rikon-tool-less-kit.124508/

 

[pgrbff]

Are you in Italy? For just over €2000 you can buy a Minimax S45N from MakXilia (see here) based in Pescara. A better saw than the RP Sabre or the Hammer N2-35. Worth the investment IMO if your wallet can stretch to it.

I have a large cast iron machine in pieces I am restoring, I really only need a small saw.
This machine is pretty much 2000 everywhere. It is irrational I know but I have never been really happy with my minimax planer thicknesser, SCM would not be my first choice.

 

[pgrbff]

I bought my BS 350S from a German distributor, Maschinenhandel Meyer GmbH Co KG five years ago for €799. They have a Sabre 350 now for €1,349, but it is a "B Ware" product. This means it is fully functional but has blemishes, was an open box, the packaging is missing, is a returned item, or is a factory reconditioned item. B Ware items cannot be sold as new, but should come with the same manufacturer's warranty.

Over time, I have made several modifications to make it nearly a Sabre 350. Here is the first thread with my modifications. Each thread has links to the other threads.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...ide-upgrade-using-rikon-tool-less-kit.124508/

They don't show shipping for Italy so I guess that could bring it up to 1400 or 1450? I'll ask. I wish I could see them side by side.

 

[MikeK]

Are you in Italy? For just over €2000 you can buy a Minimax S45N from MakXilia (see here) based in Pescara. A better saw than the RP Sabre or the Hammer N2-35. Worth the investment IMO if your wallet can stretch to it.

The €2,173 price does not include the Italian 22-percent VAT. With VAT, the price is €2,651 plus delivery.

 

[Bojam]

I have a large cast iron machine in pieces I am restoring, I really only need a small saw.

How small is small? Would this work? Made in Italy.

 

[Bojam]

The €2,173 price does not include the Italian 22-percent VAT. With VAT, the price is €2,651 plus delivery.

True. Still, if the Sabre 350 is “well over €2000” as the OP said then it’s still not a bad price. I’d take the Minimax every time.

 

[Bojam]

I have a large cast iron machine in pieces I am restoring, I really only need a small saw.
This machine is pretty much 2000 everywhere. It is irrational I know but I have never been really happy with my minimax planer thicknesser, SCM would not be my first choice.

Out of interest, what is the machine that you are restoring?

 

[MikeK]

It is irrational I know but I have never been really happy with my minimax planer thicknesser, SCM would not be my first choice.

This is interesting. I have the opposite feelings towards my Minimax P/T, and it is the least expensive model.

Which P/T do you have and what problems are you having with it?

 

[Mikebart]

Hi
That’s exactly what I should be able to do. It’s not a major issue and easy to do but ideally it should not be necessary.
The only thing I can see to cause this issue is that the actual arm that the bearing block is mounted on is not vertical in relation to the back of the blade, because if you set the bearing correctly at the top it pushes the blade forward when you drop the guard/bearing assembly and the reverse if you lift it up at the top you get a gap so the bearing is not having the effect it should have.
So would assume if I shim the the blade guard assembly behind the locking knob it should result in the guide staying vertical as it’s lowered.
Then adjust top and bottom bearings to suit.
There is about a 1mm gap between bearing and rear of blade so if the guide can rise and fall 300mm that’s a discrepancy of 1mm over a travel of 300mm so it’s not a large amount and a couple of thin shims will cure the issue.
So will be cutting up a bake bean can tomorrow for some shim material.
But I have to say apart from this minor issue the saw is a brilliant bit of kit well worth the cost.
Hope this all makes sense.

Okay thank you Record Power and mainly to the guy I spoke to on the phone(technical support),after taking apart the top of the machine I found four adjustable grub screws and although not obvious you can actually adjust them without taking the machine apart.
So I cleaned all the parts and reassembled the machine,adjusted both top grub screws(quarter turn in) all fine now and no baked bean tin hurt in the process.
Item 5 on drawing.

 

[pgrbff]

Out of interest, what is the machine that you are restoring?

It's a very old cast iron, probably around 2nd world war 50cm wheel. I bought it because it was pretty much more than anything else. I have spent quite a lot on tyres, imperial nuts and bolts and taps and dies despite being of Italian manufacture, inverter, 2-pack spray paint, time etc, and I have no idea how well it will perform but this is mainly a hobby. I need a small machine to make some arched doors for a friend.

 

[pgrbff]

How small is small? Would this work? Made in Italy.

too big!

 

[pgrbff]

This is interesting. I have the opposite feelings towards my Minimax P/T, and it is the least expensive model.

Which P/T do you have and what problems are you having with it?

I bought it in Italy probably around the mid-1990s, MiniMax mod. FS 30. Shipped to Ireland screwed to a pallet.
I had previously used a small Scheppach with rubber rollers which I cleaned occasionally. The model FS 30 I have has a steel feed wheel. The biggest problem is the constant cleaning of the feed wheel which, with only a few chips stuck to it starts to create a judder which produces a terrible finish, There are 4 plastic adjusters which even after all this time I cannot adjust adequately for soft and hardwoods. If not adjusted they leave indentations in the timber if you take less than a 0.5mm cut. With the Scheppach I rarely had problems and could dial in fairly accurately how much I take off with each pass.
When I had both in the workshop I would do most of the donkey work with the MiniMax and finish off with the significantly cheaper but also much smaller Scheppach.
The thicknesser table was also not parallel with the blades when I took delivery.