Recommendations for a mortice gauge?

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Andy Kev.

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Good Morning All,

I've decided that I need a mortice gauge (up to now I've got by with accurate marking and using a single Veritas wheel-type marking gauge). This should be a one off purchase so I would like to get the best I can which I reckon should mean that the chief qualites should be accuracy and robustness. Which model do you recommend?
 
There's only ever been one worth considering and that's the Marples. Though there are variations of the Marples pattern e.g. slide instead of turn-screw, which makes it cheaper.

mortice.gauge.14.l.jpg
 
Personally I'm a firm beliver that the traditional style wooden gauges are the best type available, so I'd get several of the inexpensive Marples Pattern ones from faithful or crown tools and use a file to sharpen the pins into small knifeblades.

You could get several old ones from ebay and give them the same treatment...

Just like clamps, one can never have enough gauges...

Edit: Jacob beat me to the punch.
 
As above, but I just wanted to point out that Joseph Marples (unlike William Marples) still make these in Sheffield and sell them through the usual distributors. See http://www.marples.co.uk/rosewood-gauges.html.

A cheaper but effective method is to realise that in practice all your hand mortising will be at one or two fixed sizes only. So you can just add a second pin to an old marking gauge, at the right distance from the existing one to suit your chisel. Not such a smart, desirable tool though.
 
I have a 1970s (I believe) era Marples screw adjust gauge. Works fine. Holds its adjustment with a gentle snugging up of the screw.

Can't stand, I mean can't stand, wheel gauges.
 
AndyT":1xknr96v said:
As above, but I just wanted to point out that Joseph Marples (unlike William Marples) still make these in Sheffield and sell them through the usual distributors. See http://www.marples.co.uk/rosewood-gauges.html.

I have one of those, bought from Axi I believe.
Actually it's a combination gauge (at least I think that's what you call them - single pin on one side of the stem and usual double adjustable on the other side).

It seems to work OK although I have recently noticed that the stock is not square to the stem - wonky mortice I guess. It doesn't really bother me much but just saying.

I also bought an Axminster cutting gauge based on the same basic pattern. The knife and wedge seat in a round hole on the stem making it quite tricky to get the edge of the knife parallel to the face of the stock. Is that how they all are I wonder, and am I being a bit pathetic about it?
 
Zeddedhed":33vx2gbd said:
...).

It seems to work OK although I have recently noticed that the stock is not square to the stem - wonky mortice I guess. ....
It doesn't matter if the stock is not square, within reason. All that's required is that the pins should be roughly opposite the centre of the stock.
 
Either the type above or a japanese type in good shape (not the new and cheap or new and very expensive type, but can be found used in older styles for about $25).

I like the japanese type better, but it really doesn't make any difference.
 
Andy Kev.":2k7b60mm said:
Good Morning All,

I've decided that I need a mortice gauge (up to now I've got by with accurate marking and using a single Veritas wheel-type marking gauge). This should be a one off purchase so I would like to get the best I can which I reckon should mean that the chief qualites should be accuracy and robustness. Which model do you recommend?

Hi Andy

You could just get another wheel gauge and use them together. It would need to be a wheel gauge since working from the reference side would require a line that does not wedge the wrong side of the line. Veritas sell a double wheel gauge that has had good reviews.

Anyway, the very best mortice gauge I own is a Kinshiro. This has a double knife, cuts a clean, clear line ... but this one not made anymore (on the right) ..

CG3_zps645bbfb3.jpg


The down side of this gauge is that the setting is lost as soon as you have offset mortice-and-tenons, such as in a table. One wants the head to move while the cutters remain fixed.

So I made two different types. One is the wheel type (actually using LN cutters) ...

Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m25b1a8d5.jpg


Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_3ec0b08.jpg


The problem I have with this type of gauge is that the lines are very faint as you achieve little downforce.

A cutter is better, and so I made a fixed blade mortice gauge witth a moveable fence and cutters. Actually, I made replaceable cutters for my 1/4" and 3/8" mortice chisels ...

Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_1ff5cd98.jpg


This retains the Japanese roots ...

Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_43e8b058.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
CStanford":hugjhnmp said:
The edge of the knife actually shouldn't be perfectly parallel to the stock. See Robt. Wearing et al.

Not having any idea what Robt. Wearing et al refers too would you care to expand on that please?
 
I like to use the Joseph Marples mortice gauge but have them tweaked for me down to 4mm pin spacings for finer work.

I had a great tour around their tool works a few of years ago when going on an exploratory buying trip. Tony Marples showed me around the workshop and all the machines they have adapted over the years to make their gauges. I had a great talk with Tony including how Ashley lies shared part of his fathers workshop back in the day when AI first started. Tony was surprised I wanted to see the workshops as his usual buyers only want to grill him in the office on how cheap they can get his tools! (which I thought was very sad) I wanted to see if he could make tools to my specification.

Some users prefer the Veritas Dual marking gauge, I have added one to my own tool kit this week but don't forget to buy the optional shaft clamp you will need it! I thought I would take advantage of the new lower prices on the Veritas.

Cheers Peter
 
Thank you all very much indeed for your replies.

D_W and Derek: I tried a Japanese gauge when I went on a course, exactly like the one on the right in Derek's first picture, and it drove me absolutely nuts in frustration. Try as I might, I just couldn't get the thing to work properly. The one in the last two pics looks like a dream though as well as extremely practical and I'll file that away for future reference.

Meanwhile, it looks like Marples is the answer for the time being. This one seems to be the best:

http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... ml#SID=537

And it's probably what I'll be choosing unless anyone knows of any serious drawbacks with it.

Peter, the Veritas dual gauge was the other solution that occurred to me and I'm very pleased with my single wheel Veritas gauges. I quite like the idea of trying something more traditional though.
 
Andy Kev.":ysfp3nlz said:
... D_W and Derek: I tried a Japanese gauge when I went on a course, exactly like the one on the right in Derek's first picture, and it drove me absolutely nuts in frustration. Try as I might, I just couldn't get the thing to work properly. ...


Andy, the way to set up a Japanese gauge is as follows:

Mark across the width with the mortice chisel, as shown below.

AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_19759670.jpg


Simply place the ends of the knives (or points) in the ends of the cut. This sets up the cutting width.

AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_m4d3a214c.jpg


Now slide the head of the gauge against the work piece to set its depth. This completes setting up the mortice gau

AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_557894d4.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 

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