craigy
Established Member
What can you guys recommend?
Recommend new table saw fence or mods
- Thread starter craigy
- Start date
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Bodgers
Established Member
What are you trying to achieve?
This is part one of two. Table saw jigs for any occasion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZfyoh5SZ6I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZfyoh5SZ6I
rafezetter
Troll Hunter
Darn it - I was almost finished making my table saw sled and now... I'm going to have to make it again to Fishers design - that front section becoming a mitre backer..... brilliant.
Yup, he's cost me 5 dollars so far, think I'm going to have to give him another five as well.
I'm currently making the box joint jig, already made the taper jig.
First class instructions with lots of colour pics. =D> =D>
Now if only I could get him to measure in mm. :roll: #-o
I'm currently making the box joint jig, already made the taper jig.
First class instructions with lots of colour pics. =D> =D>
Now if only I could get him to measure in mm. :roll: #-o
colinc
Established Member
Hi,
coincidentally, I just took delivery of a new fence for my second hand Kity 419 today.
The problem I had was that the fence it came with had only the short rail and I now have the saw mounted on bench on castors with added table width on the right. I had been looking for a while and had seriously considered building one but to save time I took a £60 gamble on one from Charnwood: Charnwood fence
This has a 1 metre long rail so fits my table exactly.
I have only done a trial fit so far, not bolted it on, but it looks fine and as good as you could reasonably expect for the money.
The Kity bed casting has a horizontal lip on the front face that the original fence rail bolts to. The rail extrusion on the replacement sits on this and the height of the assembly means that it fits exactly which is pretty lucky. What I will need to do is drill some holes in the bed front edge and make some spacers, but it seems to all work out well and the rail doesn't block access to the slots in the bed either which is important.
I would have preferred the fence part itself to be a bit thicker, but it will do the job and there is scope for modifying that if necessary, it's the rail and the bracket that are more important in the scheme of things.
Anyway, I hope that helps.
regards
Colin
coincidentally, I just took delivery of a new fence for my second hand Kity 419 today.
The problem I had was that the fence it came with had only the short rail and I now have the saw mounted on bench on castors with added table width on the right. I had been looking for a while and had seriously considered building one but to save time I took a £60 gamble on one from Charnwood: Charnwood fence
This has a 1 metre long rail so fits my table exactly.
I have only done a trial fit so far, not bolted it on, but it looks fine and as good as you could reasonably expect for the money.
The Kity bed casting has a horizontal lip on the front face that the original fence rail bolts to. The rail extrusion on the replacement sits on this and the height of the assembly means that it fits exactly which is pretty lucky. What I will need to do is drill some holes in the bed front edge and make some spacers, but it seems to all work out well and the rail doesn't block access to the slots in the bed either which is important.
I would have preferred the fence part itself to be a bit thicker, but it will do the job and there is scope for modifying that if necessary, it's the rail and the bracket that are more important in the scheme of things.
Anyway, I hope that helps.
regards
Colin
Bodgers
Established Member
The OP has scattered vague open ended questions of late. Not sure he's interested in replies...
Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
rafezetter
Troll Hunter
ColinC - id be really interested to hear how this works out. I have a Kity 419 as well and although I have the long fence rail plus 2 extention tables my biggest grip is the system to lock the fence in place is a TWIST screw that "walks" as I tighten it, a PITA as I then have to tap it back - and micro adjust.
colinc
Established Member
Hi rafezetter,
I would say that the Kity fence part is more robust than this, but the lever locking mechanism does seem to work ok. The rail is as substantial as the Kity extrusion. It would be easy to mount another fence extrusion to the slider if the need arises.
I realised when I looked again that there is enough material in the fence rail extrusion that I can drill and tap three holes in it and use the existing mounting holes in the casting where the Kity rail attached. Simples!
regards
Colin
I would say that the Kity fence part is more robust than this, but the lever locking mechanism does seem to work ok. The rail is as substantial as the Kity extrusion. It would be easy to mount another fence extrusion to the slider if the need arises.
I realised when I looked again that there is enough material in the fence rail extrusion that I can drill and tap three holes in it and use the existing mounting holes in the casting where the Kity rail attached. Simples!
regards
Colin
shed9
establiSHED member
colinc":37ohf1ai said:
That's a really good price for a rail and fence. Appreciate it's a £60 appliance but that's always going to be a good starting point if you needed to make any mods beyond it's own function and limitations.
I'd be interested in your opinions on it after some more use.
colinc
Established Member
OK, will try and post some thoughts when I have set it up and used it for a bit.
Colin
Colin
colinc
Established Member
Hi,
Next step was to attach the rail to the kity table casting. It worked out really easy and took 20 minutes.
I clamped the rail in place and then spotted the centres of the existing three holes using a drill that matched the hole, from memory it was just under 5/16", say 9/32". Having got the centres I drilled them out to 5mm and tapped them M6. The thread goes through two sections of the extrusion.
That was it really, just fitted it with three 6mm capscrews. It seems pretty robust. Not absolutely immovable if you pull the end of the fence around, but good enough I think for the money.
Regards,
Colin
Next step was to attach the rail to the kity table casting. It worked out really easy and took 20 minutes.
I clamped the rail in place and then spotted the centres of the existing three holes using a drill that matched the hole, from memory it was just under 5/16", say 9/32". Having got the centres I drilled them out to 5mm and tapped them M6. The thread goes through two sections of the extrusion.
That was it really, just fitted it with three 6mm capscrews. It seems pretty robust. Not absolutely immovable if you pull the end of the fence around, but good enough I think for the money.
Regards,
Colin
siggy_7
Full time tool collector, part time woodworker
I bought this guy's plans and adapted them to my saw; I think it's the best saw fence around. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4pudkvHFOfk
I added the Jessem guides to it which I think are great too.
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I added the Jessem guides to it which I think are great too.
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
craigy
Established Member
Thanks for the great info folks and for taking the time to answer. The Fisher guy is really good and will be making his box jig. The Charnwood seems really good value but is currently out of stock. I’ve decided to stick with the original Wadkin fence as I have made a mod for it and fettled it to within .25mm of parallel with the blade along the metre length. The main problem now is that the rail measuring graduations have worn away so I will hopefully purchase the Wixey Saw Fence Digital Readout to save time measuring to the teeth each time.
Sorry to disappoint you with my questions bodgers but you’re wrong, I am interested in responses but don’t sit on the forum 24 hours per day. Also, may I suggest you keep your non-relevant responses to yourself :lol: as this and my other questions are relevant to me.
Peace
Sorry to disappoint you with my questions bodgers but you’re wrong, I am interested in responses but don’t sit on the forum 24 hours per day. Also, may I suggest you keep your non-relevant responses to yourself :lol: as this and my other questions are relevant to me.
Peace
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I've heard those Wixey style aren't as accurate as they could be, could be the batteries playing up or something,
I can't remember, sorry
I can't remember, sorry
rafezetter
Troll Hunter
craigy":3ro86qme said:Thanks for the great info folks and for taking the time to answer. The Fisher guy is really good and will be making his box jig. The Charnwood seems really good value but is currently out of stock. I’ve decided to stick with the original Wadkin fence as I have made a mod for it and fettled it to within .25mm of parallel with the blade along the metre length. The main problem now is that the rail measuring graduations have worn away so I will hopefully purchase the Wixey Saw Fence Digital Readout to save time measuring to the teeth each time.
Sorry to disappoint you with my questions bodgers but you’re wrong, I am interested in responses but don’t sit on the forum 24 hours per day. Also, may I suggest you keep your non-relevant responses to yourself :lol: as this and my other questions are relevant to me.
Peace
Before you spend that kind of money why not look into the self adhesive tapes with measurments on?
Just buy this from Axminster Axminster Rip Fence Upgrade
and job done, it is what I am using and it is great.
and job done, it is what I am using and it is great.
Hi Colinc,
I too have a kity 419 and have extended my table, so wider wood could be ripped so I needed a longer rail. I saw the charnwood rail and fence on their website and was interested in buying it. But the horizontal lip on the front face of the kity 419 bothered me. I see in an earlier post you wrote you "took a gamble" and bought it. I tried to get the answers from the company Charnwood, but they couldn't give me a positive answer that the lip wouldn't be in the way and also the slots in the bed wouldn't be blocked off.
As you posted this information over two years ago, I just wanted to check with you that the profile of the rail you bought is the same one they are selling today, and do you rate it? One other query - did you have to use spacers for attaching the new rail or am I correct in reading that you've used the three existing holes in horizontal lip to fix the new rail.
I've attached a couple of files to this message - the same ones I emailed to Charnwood.
Tarka
I too have a kity 419 and have extended my table, so wider wood could be ripped so I needed a longer rail. I saw the charnwood rail and fence on their website and was interested in buying it. But the horizontal lip on the front face of the kity 419 bothered me. I see in an earlier post you wrote you "took a gamble" and bought it. I tried to get the answers from the company Charnwood, but they couldn't give me a positive answer that the lip wouldn't be in the way and also the slots in the bed wouldn't be blocked off.
As you posted this information over two years ago, I just wanted to check with you that the profile of the rail you bought is the same one they are selling today, and do you rate it? One other query - did you have to use spacers for attaching the new rail or am I correct in reading that you've used the three existing holes in horizontal lip to fix the new rail.
I've attached a couple of files to this message - the same ones I emailed to Charnwood.
Tarka
