Rawlplug hollow wall plug issue

[Agent_zed]

Thinking around the problem a little.... why not replace the small batten the gate hangs on with a longer wider piece. You can then put multiple fixing into the board and the leverage will be reduced. Could make it multi purpose and have it as a height chart for your child or have a coat hook on it or something so it looks like it should be there.

 

[MarkAW]

I had a similar problem with a 2 year old and a curtain pole. As others have said the key is knowing what's behind the plasterboard. In my case it was dot and dab so I had a small cavity behind. After trying several different plugs I ended up going with some specific long fixings to reach into the block work behind. For my stair gate I used extra long screws that went into the studwork. That's held up so far

 

[MikeJhn]

If the floor is flat under the gate in its entire swing then a wheel on the far end could solve the problem.

 

[Spectric]

You could just try these

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-...VRoBQBh02bwDFEAQYASABEgKDlPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
no expansion just a threaded system.

The other ones are these which are really good Home - TOGGLER Fixings

 

[Torx]

OP - when you drill a hole in that location, regardless of any metal that might be within the plaster, is there a hollow cavity behind?

 

[--Tom--]

OP - when you drill a hole in that location, regardless of any metal that might be within the plaster, is there a hollow cavity behind?

This is the question as otherwise people will keep suggesting other cavity fixings……

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes. I can't see why no matter what the wall is made of there'd be a cavity that close to the corner.

 

[robgul]

I'd lay money that it's dot and dab with the plasterboards butted "off the wall" on the corner with the plaster skim bead applied - thus creating the "cavity" being the space between the wall and the plasterboards. Wider wall batten would probably find solid wall to get into (spanning the dot and dab gap). Proper DIY (and others) on YT has a trick for filling the dot and dab space to get decent fixings.

 

[White_vinyl]

As for some fixings working, some not, I wonder if the angle of the fixing in the hole is affecting this? i.e. if the fixing is inserted at 0º, and another one further down the wall is inserted at 90º, then the angle that the fixing 'crushes' at will be different angles. Of course, different fixings have differrent methods of creating that tension, and the first few times I put stuff into hollow walls, I found this type of video helpful to understand which might be best for which type of job.



As others have said, as your kid has essentially made the gate 'load-bearing' now, finding a solid point to stick some screws into a wooden cross brace, and then screwing into that is probably your best option.

 

[Fergie 307]

I'd lay money that it's dot and dab with the plasterboards butted "off the wall" on the corner with the plaster skim bead applied - thus creating the "cavity" being the space between the wall and the plasterboards. Wider wall batten would probably find solid wall to get into (spanning the dot and dab gap). Proper DIY (and others) on YT has a trick for filling the dot and dab space to get decent fixings.

All I do is inject a good squirt of dry wall adhesive into the hole so it fills the gap behind the board. Once dry you have a nice solid area.

 

[Yorkieguy]

Without sufficient space behind the plasterboard, 'Rawlanchors' aren't suitable, but another reason for failure is that most people seem to fit them by relying on just a screwdriver to tighten and 'set' the anchors. It's far better to use the correct 'Setting Tool' such as this one from Screwfix:

Rawlplug Heavy Duty Setting Tool - Screwfix

Not cheap, but if you live in a house with plasterboard dot and dab walls as I do, the Setting Tool is pretty much essential. You might get away without the tool most of the time, but if the anchor starts to turn as you tighten it, it will tear out the plaster and it's game over, so you have to resort to another form of anchor as a bodge.

 

[robgul]

All I do is inject a good squirt of dry wall adhesive into the hole so it fills the gap behind the board. Once dry you have a nice solid area.

Exactly - works every time

 

[Tom K]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m6-x-52mm-20-pack/68410
Using these to hold a dog gate I built to the wall. Worked fine, then had a daughter. She's now two and a half, and has been hanging on the gate. The gate has come from the wall. I used multiple of these plugs and lots of no more nails!

Between the anchors, I seem to have two issues.

Some of the anchors are working, but require tightening more than the gate can allow.

Some of the anchors are biting at the right point, but a little pull and the bolt loses its grip and comes out.

I hope this makes sense.

Not really sure what to do to fix this.

Can anyone please advise?

That appears to be an exterior wall leading to an extension of some description. It is far too thick to be any type of stud wall . If necessary use a wider jamb to fix more centrally while keeping the hinges in the same position. Use masonry fixings as shown by another poster the fixings you have are for plasterboard.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

This is the problem - we don't actually know what the corner is behind the plasterboard.

 

[Pedronicus]

That appears to be an exterior wall leading to an extension of some description. It is far too thick to be any type of stud wall . If necessary use a wider jamb to fix more centrally while keeping the hinges in the same position. Use masonry fixings as shown by another poster the fixings you have are for plasterboard.

That was my thoughts when first viewing the pic as the thickness of the wall appears to be mirrored on the left of the opening. Maybe caution should be exercised in selecting a central position as one may well hit the cavity in the wall. A horizontal row of small diameter holes could be drilled across the wall to try and locate a more secure fixing.

 

[Spectric]

If it is a dot and dab wall then try these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corefix-Bracket-Plasterboard-Fixing-Tested/dp/B072JYXJL6

My prefered way, especially with heavy radiators is to either drill a round hole or cut a small square hole with a multitool to expose the wall behind, then use a wood plug to fit the hole you made with a hole through it and now drill the wall through the wood plug. Fit a nylon fisher plug and then the item being secured is fixed through your wood plug. This method works because the wood plug bridges the gap so your screw is not trying to jack the plug or pull the face of the block out.

 

[Sean33]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m6-x-52mm-20-pack/68410
Using these to hold a dog gate I built to the wall. Worked fine, then had a daughter. She's now two and a half, and has been hanging on the gate. The gate has come from the wall. I used multiple of these plugs and lots of no more nails!

Between the anchors, I seem to have two issues.

Some of the anchors are working, but require tightening more than the gate can allow.

Some of the anchors are biting at the right point, but a little pull and the bolt loses its grip and comes out.

I hope this makes sense.

Not really sure what to do to fix this.

Can anyone please advise?

Was recommended a product called wet n fix, have used it a couple of times and seems to do the trick. Also may be worth looking at fisher duo guard plugs, don't often have the need for raw plugs but on the few occasions I have needed something for plaster board seem to work better than the metal fixings.

 

[starfish]

If it is a dot and dab wall then try these Amazon.co.uk

My prefered way, especially with heavy radiators is to either drill a round hole or cut a small square hole with a multitool to expose the wall behind, then use a wood plug to fit the hole you made with a hole through it and now drill the wall through the wood plug. Fit a nylon fisher plug and then the item being secured is fixed through your wood plug. This method works because the wood plug bridges the gap so your screw is not trying to jack the plug or pull the face of the block out.

Corefix are excellent or i use a hole saw to create a round plug out of softwood and use a hole saw to cut a hole in the plaster board and then multi tool to cut plug flush. Either approach is strong. But corefix is very quick and mess free

 

[MikeJhn]

Couple of questions if you don't wish to use a wheeled support on the end of the gate.

Still don't know if this is a plasterboard stud wall or solid.

When drilling the hole for the plasterboard fixing did the drill bit suddenly go into the wall, possible indicating a void, or did it need drilling to it's full depth, if the latter than the plasterboard fixing will not work as it has not where to expand too and a resin type anchor would be more appropriate, but do be aware to work well the hole will need under reaming.

 

[toolsntat]

@LittleEars
How's it looking chap ?
Cheers, Andy