Rabbeted dovetail with hand tools

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Fromey":okunrxt2 said:
I'm not sure I can saw the angled plane,......

Sorry I missed this bit earlier. I can see the problem of using a heavily backed saw on an angle. Treat it as a dovetail and organise the cut to be vertical. This can be done by holding the board in the vice at a suitable angle, or by clamping the board to a lump of timber in the vice at the same angle.
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For some reason when I started reading this I'd assumed that it was some wild blind dovetail joint.
 
Hmmm.....

Aesthetics apart, there's a strong whiff of electric router about that joint in the picture - but I may be wrong.

I'd agree about the strength aspect. One glue-face is end grain and I think it needs at least two or three more dowels to be fully rigid.

There's probably as much work involved in re-creating that accuracy by hand as there is in doing a proper set of dove-tails.

Leaving aside the expensive collectors versions, dove-tail planes are scarce, though they do crop up on the market from time to time. I have a couple of very old wooden ones on my shelf that I picked up out of curiosity about 25 years ago and have probably used twice since. One clue about their effectiveness is that although Victorian, they were virtually unused when I got them.

The blades are skewed and bedded at what is effectively a reverse angle and can be a bit awkward to hone accurately. They are intended to cut across the grain, need a decent fence and are more use in shelving and forming the (mostly hidden) female ends of sliding dadoes than composing fine joints. I know for a fact that they are not intended to and won't cut end grain very well. Used in a dado, you still have to cut the trench by hand. A plane for shaping and forming - not unfortunately, for precision joints straight from the blade.



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