R.Groves & Sons Tenon Saw WIP FINISHED

[DannyEssex]

I understand that pedder, the picture was just for display purposes

Thanks again

 

[bugbear]

RESULT!

BugBear

 

[DannyEssex]

:lol: :lol:

 

[morfa]

Lovely saw. Looks wonderful. I need to get cracking on mine.

 

[spanner48]

I messed about with a practice saw this morning, using a hacksaw blade as the template. It seem ok, not as daunting as I was expecting it to be. Bugbear kindly sent me some images to print off, so will try that out. I have just won a saw vice on ebay and will picking that up Thursday, then I will order some new files from WH.

I have a question about starting the first file cut. Am i best to start in the middle of the template teeth?

And jointing

does the saw plate HAVE to be perfectly flat, ie no daylight whatsoever if held up to a square face?

 

[spanner48]

Does it HAVE to be absolutely flat?

No. but if you're cutting using a hacksaw blade as the master, it helps. Then you can get the whole blade done in one pass. If the toothline is hollowed - as it frequently is - you have to keep re-matching the heights between master ans slave every few inches.

 

[IWW]

Does it HAVE to be absolutely flat?

No. but if you're cutting using a hacksaw blade as the master, it helps. Then you can get the whole blade done in one pass. If the toothline is hollowed - as it frequently is - you have to keep re-matching the heights between master ans slave every few inches.

Agreed - it's better to start with a straight tooth-line, not only for marking out from the template but it makes it easier to keep a constant rake angle when forming the teeth if you are new to saw sharpening. "Breasted" saws have a convex tooth line & it takes a bit of experience & concentration to maintain rake angle when forming or re-sharpening teeth on these, especially if the breasting is extreme, as on "floor" saws. However, there is no advantage whatever (imo) in breasting backsaws, straight works just fine...

It's very easy to make straight edges with a 10" smooth-cut file and a simple guide like this to hold the file square across the top (it also keeps fingers clear of teeth when "topping" saws before re-sharpening!).


It takes just a few minutes to make. I tapped threads for the 6mm bolts directly into the wood (cross-grain threads can be tapped in wood quite successfully with ordinary metal taps), but a couple of wood screws can serve just as well. The advantage of the bolts is that they can be finger-tightened & I don't need to find a screwdriver to fix my file each time I use it. Use a chisel or rebate plane to make a small chamfer on the underside edge of the file to clear the teeth after they have been set & allow the guide to sit square against the saw plate.
Done!
Cheers,
Ian