Quicker Setting glue?

[Chems]

My woodworking is been held up by having to factor in glue time. I know that my usual PVA would set within 30mins an hour or so enough so that I could do some work, but face to face jointing and things need the full 24 hours.

Is there a glue out there that won't leave horrible glue lines that will set quickly? I thought titebond but thats the same as PVA I'm told?

TIA!

 

[Jake]

Polyurethane, the 5 min stuff is really 5-10 min to clamps off but I prefer the 30 min stuff for a bit more open time and (noticeable on difficult stuff like plastics) better adhesion.

It foams up a bit but is very easy to clean up when semi or even fully set.

 

[Chems]

Ah like Gorilla glue, I heard of it once but long forgot. Do you recommend a particular brand Jake?

Is it really strongly set within 30mins, strong enough to machine?

 

[Jake]

There are so many types.

I tend to use Balcotan 30 min from AGW, it is expensive-ish, but has a great rep among the boaty types, and practice seems to bear that out. There's a shorter version. I can't remember the machining times, longer than 30mins certainly because that is usually the clamping time. I think its 90 mins or 2 hrs for the 30 min stuff.

For the 5min versions I tend to use cartridges as the 5 min stuff goes off in the pack faster, and cartridges are smaller and cheaper so less waste.

I've been using the evostick one lately but no reason for choosing that other than whoever I bought it from had that - it is the reason that I reckon the longer versions are better because I have had no problems gluing pvc edgebanding with the Balcotan, but with the Evo 5min when I went for a quick corner cutting exercise I kept getting a poor bond (it stuck, but was easy to peel off, rather than impenetrable). I won't be buying the Evo again until I'm convinced that all the 5mins are as bad. I can't remember the others I've used and that was the first time I'd experienced a noticeable difference in bond strength.

 

[Chems]

Well looked to get some Gorilla Glue from Rutlands but poor old rutlands site isn't working.

 

[JonnyD]

Gorrilla glue has a longer open and cure time than most PU glues you will probably need to clamp for about 2 hours and be able to machine after about 4 hours. It is a pretty good glue though and excellent for oily and exotic woods.

cheers

jon

 

[Chems]

Dont mind to much about a shorter open time, what do you recommend then? Just one of the other PU glues, Titebond?

 

[Karl]

I've been using the 10min PVA from Axminster for lipping MDF. This one.

Glue up, clamps on and get on with the next one. I've not had any problems with machining it 30 mins later (although the full set time is only 2 hours).

Less messy than PU glues, although I wouldn't want to use it for a complex glue up as it goes off too quickly.

Cheers

Karl

 

[BradNaylor]

I use a 10 minute PVA glue also. I can take the clamps off lippings within an hour and an edge jointed table top will be ready in 2 hours or so.

I buy mine from a trade supplier in 5 litre drums but I'm sure it's the same sort of stuff that Karl uses from Axminster.

I find it much nicer to use than PU glue which will turn your hands black for a week, thereby having the side effect of proving an excellent contaceptive...

You're not coming near me with hands like that!!!

:wink:

Brad

 

[petermillard]

Yep, another vote for Polyten here - been using it as my standard glue for a year or so and no problems to report. Like Karl said, I only use regular PVA these days when I'm gluing up something more complex and need a longer open time.

Cheers, Pete

 

[stuartpaul]

I've given up on PU glues mainly because of the clean up required. It takes ages and you have to remove every last speck or it shows under the finish.

PVA for me with a damp cloth now.

I'll be looking at the 10 minute pva's with interest as I have some glue ups soon.

 

[OPJ]

I quite often use this five-minute PVA for small jobs now. They say five, I still think it's closer to ten... :? I'd still use a thirty-minute glue (like Titebond) for a table top with biscuits/dominoes and several boards though.

Whatever PVA you decide to go for, it's important at this time of year that it goes off in the right conditions. If it's tool cold, you'll get an obvious glue line and the joint may even fail.

PU glues are good but some times too messy for furniture (particularly if you're less-experienced with them). Also, there is a risk they can 'go off' in the tube, if they're stored in cold, damp conditions (or you don't screw the lid on properly...) :wink:

 

[CNC Paul]

I use the 5min PVA from isaac Lord, works really well especially for lippings.

 

[jedmc571]

I like this

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesiv ... 198/p61864

it's cheap, plenty of it, and cleans up as easy all the others, I use Ever Build PU glue as well, I find it's good with MDF as it getts into the fluff a bit better. Rubber gloves essential :lol:

HTH

Jed

 

[eoinsgaff]

I would have to agree with StuartPaul. I've used the titebond PU glue once on cedar gates i was making. Serious hardship after cleaning up the foamed out glue. It gets into the wood and it's difficult to remove the residue.

If you are going to use the PU I'd advise tape. Lots of tape. Stick it on either side of a glue line where you might expect the glue to foam out.

Try also to develop a measured technique where you only use the minimum of glue so there is only a minimum of foam. Remember, moisture will help the process so the joint can be rubbed with a damp cloth.

Just a few points I've learnt from my mistakes.

Eoin

 

[Chems]

Thanks for all the advice, my EvoStick PVA has ran out now so I think I'll get some 5mins PVA next and see how I get on.

 

[stuartpaul]

Just a follow on from Olly's post.

Why does 5 minute pva state:

Setting time 5-48 hours
Initial Tack time 5-10 minutes
Setting time 4 hour firm bond, 24 hour full cure

Could I be excused for thinking this is anything but 5 minute glue?

 

[OPJ]

Stuart, you're quite right and it didn't take me long to work that out either! :wink:

I generally leave very small things in the clamps for ten minutes (on the radiator, at this time of year! ) and any panels (for example) would usually be left for at least thirty-minutes.

I have had mixed results but, I'm sure the working temperature has played some part.

 

[Chems]

I resorted to brining a piece in and hairdrying it today. Worked actually.

 

[Chems]

Used gorilla glue today, just the normal dark drying stuff. Mano was it a pain. What a mess it makes. Dries quickly thats for sure but tomorrow its going to take me ages to clean up all the mess. Can't wipe it off as the tissue just sticks to it. I think I'll stick to the normal Evo-Stick in future!