Questions about 45

[whybob71]

Hi all
since I recieved my 45 I'm trying all the type of cuts. I have some questions:

1) When I use the plane on thin boards (for ex, when I make T&G joints), the hardest part of the job is keeping the plane stable; I made an extra wide fence to increase stability. It is possible to use an extra arm-fence (the one on the left with the rosewood knob) on the right of the plane? I can find it on ebay.........

2) I noticied that almost all the blades have an ugly bevel angle between 30 and 35°. The same on my 044 just recieved (I love it!!!!! ). Which is the best angle for these cutters? Since now, I have sharpened some cutters with a bevel of 30°, a secondary bevel of 32°. Is this OK?

Many thanks
Bob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Bob,

1. Yes - see Jake's post here http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=39060

2. If you alter the bevel angle or have two bevels, you might have problems with the beading cutters. Best to keep them the same and use just one bevel.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[bugbear]

2) I noticied that almost all the blades have an ugly bevel angle between 30 and 35°. The same on my 044 just recieved (I love it!!!!! ). Which is the best angle for these cutters? Since now, I have sharpened some cutters with a bevel of 30°, a secondary bevel of 32°. Is this OK?

I don't know the reasons, but the manuals for both Stanley and Record tools recommend steep bevel angles for combination plane blades.

Grind at 30, hone at 35 IIRC

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

Grind at 30, hone at 35 IIRC

In "Planecraft" they advise keeping to one bevel to avoid the risk of altering the shape of the shaped cutters and because re-grinding could cause problems. I always use the one bevel method on mine.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[whybob71]

Many thanks!

I agree on one bevel for moulding or shaped blades: in this case a single 30° bevel is OK? For straight cutters I assume that there is no problem on adding a secondary bevel or even a microbevel. Is it correct?

 

[Paul Chapman]

I agree on one bevel for moulding or shaped blades: in this case a single 30° bevel is OK? For straight cutters I assume that there is no problem on adding a secondary bevel or even a microbevel. Is it correct?

I can't remember exactly what angle the bevels are but just keep the shaped cutters the same as the original angle. For straight cutters a secondary or micro-bevel should be OK :wink:

Cheers

Paul