Question on Wood Dye please

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bluenose

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I have made a number of items using pine timber and i would like to stain them all to a Dark Oak.

Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations as to what to use please. I don't think that I will need more than one litre.

Thank you
 
bluenose":l40ef262 said:
I have made a number of items using pine timber and i would like to stain them all to a Dark Oak.

Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations as to what to use please. I don't think that I will need more than one litre.

Thank you

There are a series of Colron dies that work OK. A litre will last you a lifetime. That would do a whole house full of furniture.
 
Never used vandyke Crystals but I know they are popular in some camps. They will raise the grain though. As Mike G said the Colton dyes are excellent, and a little goes a long way. Might be a good idea to wipe over the pine with some alcohol or something like that first as the resinous parts in pine can cause a patchy take up of the dye. Any glue seepage that has not been completely removed will also show well after staining. If I am teaching you to suck eggs, just ignore me :lol:
 
Hello again folks. Thanks again for the info re wood dye.

I seem to have a bit of a problem. I have treated all of the wood and I am really pleased with the way it has turned out clolourwise. However, despite the fact that I treated it all a few days ago, all of the pieces still feel ever so slightly tacky to the touch. not all over, just in parts.
I originally thought that it was because I did the job in my garage/workshop and that the temperature was something to do with it. Because of that I decided to bring it all into the house where it is obviously much warmer but, they have been indoors for a day and a half now with no chabge to the touch.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this please. Many thanks.
 
Thank you for coming in on this.
I tried to get hold of some Colron as recommended in one of the replies to my thread but I couldn't find any locally. I ended up using Blackfriars. As I said earlier, I'm very pleased with the resulting colour but, and I have just checked again now, there still is this very slight tackiness to the touch, not all over, just in parts. I was hoping to have got the varnish coatings on by now. I'm wondering if it will affect the drying of the varnish.
 
I believe the Blackfriars is a spirit based dye rather than water. I expect the spirit has softened the resins in the pine and it's taking a bit of time to evaporate fully.
Brian
 
What you say sounds logical Brian. Do you think that I need to wait until there is absolutely no sign of tackiness before applying the varnish or, is it possible that the varnish may help the drying process?
Thanks again for your input.
 
Yojevol":3jo4htbi said:
I believe the Blackfriars is a spirit based dye rather than water. Brian
Brian, Blackfriars 'dyes' I suspect aren't really dyes, and it seems likely they really should be described as stains: instructions for use include the clue 'stir thoroughly prior to use', which is generally code for the user to realise there are solid undissolved pigments in the colourant that need to be mixed in, therefore a stain, not dye.

Blackfriar's describe their 'dye' as an oil based colourant rather than spirit based, and the solvent is slow drying naphtha; and this is another clue indicating a stain rather than a dye. I do wish manufacturers of wood colourants would label their products as either stain or dye consistently because it would just make it so much easier to know what type of colourant is in use.

I suspect bluenose's problem is caused primarily by a rather generous application without following up after ten or so minutes with a clean, dry cloth to wipe off the excess. If the stuff is still thick and tacky, washing down using a cloth well dampened (soaked possibly) with white spirits might be the answer. Slainte.
 
Hello folks, sorry for delay in getting back. The dye that I have used is definitely not an oil based product, it is just like water really, just need to shake the tin before using.
In the application instructions on the tin it says that further coats can be applied as long as there is suction left in the wood.
I give below a link to the product I have used. Thanks again for all the input, much appreciated.

http://www.blackfriar.co.uk/product/wood-dye/
 
I'm late to this party but for future reference ...
I made some shelves using a mixture of pine and dark oak. I then coloured the pine using strong coffee where I kept the dregs from the coffee pot for a week or so and then wiped or brushed it on. The pine came out looking very similar to the dark oak. That is not really what I wanted (I was aiming for a light oak) so I guess I should not have used such a strong coffee.

I have also darkened pine by wiping it with a wet tea bag and it came out more like beech. Just play around with some offcuts and try a few household things.
 
Thank you for your input Just4Fun. My main problem at the moment is, can I get rid of this very slight tackiness in some way or, can I simply apply 2 or 3 coats of varnish and, if I do, will it harden off OK?
 
bluenose":2ibc5gfg said:
My main problem at the moment is, can I get rid of this very slight tackiness in some way …
Well, yes you can. I repeat, in case you missed my last post in this thread, white spirits, rag, and maybe a Scotchbrite pad for some scrubbing with the grain if need be. Slainte.
 
Hi, you most likely applied too many coats too soon after one another, especially since you said it was cold. Each coat may require a 'flash off period' essentially letting the solvents evaporate before next coat. A high build up of trapped solvents can lead to micro blisters or extended drying time. It could now take weeks to dry out. As already posted twice before washing/wiping over with a solvent rag is your best option. If the colour has faded then let it dry and recoat with the stain. I would not recommend varnishing over until it has dried. If you do the top coat will cure but the base stain will still be curing, once it has it will shrink/sink causing large splits in the top coat.
My choice of stain is Morrells Light Fast Stain, alcohol based dries pretty fast even on cold days (half hour warm day, couple hours cold day we are talking Scottish warm and cold :) )
 
Thank you cammy9r, I'm going to try to wipe it over this morning and will keep my fingers crossed for a good result. If I lose some of the colour from this 'wiping', could I then re-coat with your recommended product, or wouldn't that work now.
Thanks again.
 
bluenose":26wuwalj said:
Thank you cammy9r, I'm going to try to wipe it over this morning and will keep my fingers crossed for a good result. If I lose some of the colour from this 'wiping', could I then re-coat with your recommended product, or wouldn't that work now. Thanks again.
I must admit I find it hard to understand why you are experiencing such difficulties. For a simple colour change job which seems to be what you are after, neither dye or stain require complex application procedures. Basically, you flood it on, leave for a few minutes (length dependent upon the carrying medium, i.e., water and oil based = fairly generous time, and spirit based [alcohol, lacquer thinners] very little time) and wipe off thoroughly with the grain using clean, dry, absorbent cotton cloths (old T shirts for example), the last procedure to make sure you get an even colour change without tide marks, dark curtains or drips on lower edges, etc.

So, if after washing or scrubbing off the tacky stuff you've got, the colour has faded more than you like, simply apply another coat of the same Blackfriars product in the manner I've described above. If there's a chance a new application is going to make the colour too dark or intense, thin it with white spirits as much as you like, perhaps as much as 50%. I know Blackfriars suggest a maximum thinning of 5%, but this can be ignored. The solvent for this product is naphtha, and white spirits is compatible with naphtha, so all thinning does is reduce the amount of colourant that gets applied to the wood.

In summary, there's no good reason to now switch to an alcohol based dye or stain that I can think of. You are obviously struggling a bit with what you've got without trying to learn how to handle a different colourant. And, critically, bear in mind that neither dye or stain are protective finishes in themselves. All they do, in either a single, or in generally no more than two applications, is change the colour of wood, after which you apply suitable and compatible protective finishes. An oil based varnish is a suitable finish, but not the only one, to apply over your Blackfriars oil based stain/ dye, but your application technique for the varnish needs to be good to prevent streaking and blotching of the already applied stain.

Keep it simple for now, and build on your experience for the future. The art of finishing at a high level is complex and requires a great deal of learning and practice, but what you are doing is very basic, so for the moment you're really best to stick to simple procedures. Slainte.
 

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