Quarter round bathroom sink cabinet
- Thread starter Chrispy
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Chrispy
Established Member
I meant to say something about the cabinet but posted it by accident.
No in-situ picture as the customer is collecting and fitting it themselves, all made in MR-mdf sprayed with 2k lacquer and then a Hi-macs top to finish it off, I took loads of pictures along the way if anyone want's to see why furniture with curves is so expensive.
No in-situ picture as the customer is collecting and fitting it themselves, all made in MR-mdf sprayed with 2k lacquer and then a Hi-macs top to finish it off, I took loads of pictures along the way if anyone want's to see why furniture with curves is so expensive.
I think pictures would show how such a cabinet is constructed and would be very interesting, please post.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Yes construction pls.
Chrispy
Established Member
OK, you've twisted my arm.
First off it was drawn up in Sketch-up, not for the client's benefit as I have already made them two similar ones before, but to work out the geometry and prepare for manufacture.
The sink and tap were supplied by my client along with a paper template of the top. overall height and width/dia.
First off it was drawn up in Sketch-up, not for the client's benefit as I have already made them two similar ones before, but to work out the geometry and prepare for manufacture.
The sink and tap were supplied by my client along with a paper template of the top. overall height and width/dia.
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Chrispy
Established Member
Sorry for the machine based project but that's how I work sometimes.
Then this drawing was exported to my CAM program to produce cutting paths for the CNC router.
Here in the first picture are the carcase top with holes for sink and tap pre-cut, the base both 18mm MDF.
The second picture are the two backs/sides with shelf peg holes and assembly screw holes pre drilled, and also the loose shelf all in 15mm MDF.
The top and bottom are in 18mm as these have to take the joints and provide room for the doors to close on to them with soft bumpers.
The backs and shelf don't need to be so heavy so I made these from 15mm.
Then this drawing was exported to my CAM program to produce cutting paths for the CNC router.
Here in the first picture are the carcase top with holes for sink and tap pre-cut, the base both 18mm MDF.
The second picture are the two backs/sides with shelf peg holes and assembly screw holes pre drilled, and also the loose shelf all in 15mm MDF.
The top and bottom are in 18mm as these have to take the joints and provide room for the doors to close on to them with soft bumpers.
The backs and shelf don't need to be so heavy so I made these from 15mm.
Chrispy
Established Member
The next job was to make up the former for making the plinth.
The plinth was to be made by laminating layers of MR MDF to make up 18mm but on rummaging through the off-cuts I found some flexi ply and 3mm Birch ply at just the right size so that seemed perfect.
This was to be formed around a former made again from off-cuts of MDF.
Please ignore the spare grooves in the material.
Bolted together through the pre-drilled holes.
Laying up the laminates ready for the glue up with the now notorious Cascamite.
And would you know it in all the excitement I didn't get a picture with all the cramps on.
All I did was use an off-cut of 6mm MDF to even out and protect the work from the G-cramps, it doesn't need silly pressure as the ply is all very flexible.
That's after glue up, no spring back at all from the former, 3mm ply + 2x 6mm flexi then 3mm ply, all cross grain.
The flexi ply is really soft and open grained so I like to cover it with either Birch or thin MDF to give a better finished surface.
The plinth was to be made by laminating layers of MR MDF to make up 18mm but on rummaging through the off-cuts I found some flexi ply and 3mm Birch ply at just the right size so that seemed perfect.
This was to be formed around a former made again from off-cuts of MDF.
Please ignore the spare grooves in the material.
Bolted together through the pre-drilled holes.
Laying up the laminates ready for the glue up with the now notorious Cascamite.
And would you know it in all the excitement I didn't get a picture with all the cramps on.
All I did was use an off-cut of 6mm MDF to even out and protect the work from the G-cramps, it doesn't need silly pressure as the ply is all very flexible.
That's after glue up, no spring back at all from the former, 3mm ply + 2x 6mm flexi then 3mm ply, all cross grain.
The flexi ply is really soft and open grained so I like to cover it with either Birch or thin MDF to give a better finished surface.
Chrispy
Established Member
Now that the plinth is glued up it's just a matter of flattening one edge with a plane and sawing it to the correct width and length.
Meanwhile do the same thing for the doors and side pieces.
Hmm, seem to have missed another photo opportunity, well here is the completed former for the doors, I choose to make both male and female formers rather than just one and a vacuum bag mainly Cascamite in this temperature takes a long time to set so a long time to run the pump, so I opted to make the full set and use the veneer press.
Construction of the formers is just the same as for the plinth, you can see here the two differing radii to allow for the thickness of the panel.
The panels are made up from six layers of 3mm MDF, unfortunately as of yet I haven't found a supply of 3mm MR MDF so again used the router to skim 6mm down to 3mm.
When happy that it all looks good, start mixing up glue, with a bit of experience I know I need 200g of Cascamite per square metre on MDF like this so the scales are very useful, you don't want to run out half way through glue up.
And the glue roller is essential.
Not stopping to photo wet glue but here is the first one in the press, it will stay there overnight, second tomorrow and then a third to make the two side panels.
As that is a lot of time waiting for glue to dry, I'll start assembly of the carcase. TBC tomorrow.
Meanwhile do the same thing for the doors and side pieces.
Hmm, seem to have missed another photo opportunity, well here is the completed former for the doors, I choose to make both male and female formers rather than just one and a vacuum bag mainly Cascamite in this temperature takes a long time to set so a long time to run the pump, so I opted to make the full set and use the veneer press.
Construction of the formers is just the same as for the plinth, you can see here the two differing radii to allow for the thickness of the panel.
The panels are made up from six layers of 3mm MDF, unfortunately as of yet I haven't found a supply of 3mm MR MDF so again used the router to skim 6mm down to 3mm.
When happy that it all looks good, start mixing up glue, with a bit of experience I know I need 200g of Cascamite per square metre on MDF like this so the scales are very useful, you don't want to run out half way through glue up.
And the glue roller is essential.
Not stopping to photo wet glue but here is the first one in the press, it will stay there overnight, second tomorrow and then a third to make the two side panels.
As that is a lot of time waiting for glue to dry, I'll start assembly of the carcase. TBC tomorrow.
Cabinetman
Established Member
I hadn’t realised you were going to laminate the doors - cool. And you certainly aren’t messing about with your press, seriously tough. How is the jack powered? Hydraulic?
Ian
Ian
Jester129
Established Member
It looks like the press is using compressed air!
Chrispy
Established Member
Yes compressed air, much cleaner than oil.
The next stage done while the doors were pressing was to make up the top, Made from Hi-macs solid surface, this one is a kind of all white granite look.
Luckily I had a big enough left over to do this otherwise buying a full sheet would have put a big dent in the budget.
Again import all the parts from the Sketch-up model into V-carve to cut out on the router.
In this picture you can just about see the rebate around the front edge (it is upside down) this is to give a nice clean joint and also reduce the overall finished thickness a bit, the two curved strips are going build up the front edge.
The two up stands were sawn from the strip at the back of the picture.
The back edges and up-stands are all rebated to make assembly a lot easier and helps the joints to disappear later.
Temporary glue blocks are hotmelt glued along all the up-stands.
No pictures of glue spreading sorry, it's a epoxy resin and sets very fast so not much time to mess about.
I should have turned it over to show the glue block in use, but you can get the idea with the clip top back corner pulling across the corner to pull it all together, this is where all those rebates come in handy.
The next stage done while the doors were pressing was to make up the top, Made from Hi-macs solid surface, this one is a kind of all white granite look.
Luckily I had a big enough left over to do this otherwise buying a full sheet would have put a big dent in the budget.
Again import all the parts from the Sketch-up model into V-carve to cut out on the router.
In this picture you can just about see the rebate around the front edge (it is upside down) this is to give a nice clean joint and also reduce the overall finished thickness a bit, the two curved strips are going build up the front edge.
The two up stands were sawn from the strip at the back of the picture.
The back edges and up-stands are all rebated to make assembly a lot easier and helps the joints to disappear later.
Temporary glue blocks are hotmelt glued along all the up-stands.
No pictures of glue spreading sorry, it's a epoxy resin and sets very fast so not much time to mess about.
I should have turned it over to show the glue block in use, but you can get the idea with the clip top back corner pulling across the corner to pull it all together, this is where all those rebates come in handy.
Chrispy
Established Member
Found a shot showing the clamps in action pulling into the rebates.
And then a few shots after the clamps come off.
The adhesive when set is very brittle and is quite easy to chip off the excess and the wooden glue blocks, I have just realised these are the only real wood used in the whole job!
Underneath the Hi-macs is a piece of 22mm MDF this is stuck in place with silicone later on.
.
And then a few shots after the clamps come off.
The adhesive when set is very brittle and is quite easy to chip off the excess and the wooden glue blocks, I have just realised these are the only real wood used in the whole job!
Underneath the Hi-macs is a piece of 22mm MDF this is stuck in place with silicone later on.
.
Chrispy
Established Member
Yes and only a small cabinet.Wow, so much work
Chrispy
Established Member
Today's update is shaping the Hi-macs.
If you have been paying attention you will have noticed the square strip trapped in the corners bu the rebates, well this is to provide material to profile and form a nice cove to the up-stands.
A very useful tool for getting into the corners.
Then flip it over and put a small drip around the front edge with a trimmer + a piece of off-cut stuck to the fence as a guide.
Then glue the MDF base board in place with a spot of silicone.
Just need to clear up the snow storm now.
If you have been paying attention you will have noticed the square strip trapped in the corners bu the rebates, well this is to provide material to profile and form a nice cove to the up-stands.
A very useful tool for getting into the corners.
Then flip it over and put a small drip around the front edge with a trimmer + a piece of off-cut stuck to the fence as a guide.
Then glue the MDF base board in place with a spot of silicone.
Just need to clear up the snow storm now.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Wow, that is ace! Love the radius forming, bet I could have made a right mess with that the first time!
Chrispy
Established Member
Yes quite butt clenching at first but actually not to bad to use once set up.
