Quangsheng Block Plane Review

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Good review. Just a shame it's 'over there'... :wink:

Wizer's currently got the rebate block plane and he seemed a bit concerned that the blade might not hold an edge as well as some of the other steels... However, you seem quite impressed by your blade?

Have you tried it on a bit of end-grain as well? :)
 
OPJ":2cvpald1 said:
Good review. Just a shame it's 'over there'... :wink:

Wizer's currently got the rebate block plane and he seemed a bit concerned that the blade might not hold an edge as well as some of the other steels... However, you seem quite impressed by your blade?

Have you tried it on a bit of end-grain as well? :)

It's alright over there - give it a try. :D :D

I havn't used it on end grain as I wanted it specifically as a non-low angle block. So far the edge has held up well but as I said it is early days. It certainly took a sharper edge than A2. I think it will take time for the bed to run in before we can establish the definitive answer, it is certainly quite a lot harder to push than the (admittedley well run in) LN 60 1/2. There was no doubt about the better finish on long grain cherry but that doesn't prove anything in itself.
 
Paul Chapman":3rx9y32s said:
woodbloke":3rx9y32s said:
Modernist":3rx9y32s said:
It's alright over there - give it a try. :D :D
I did, some time ago...some of the company didn't suite though

Yes, but it's Grim up North, so you have to make a few allowances :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
Trouble is Paul, the individual in question doesn't make any allowances...any 'discussion' :roll: is always one sided - Rob
 
I have to say my first impressions of this plane are that it is outstanding. The blade took just 5 minutes with 800 followed by a 10000 stone and a veritas mk2 to make very very sharp indeed - and it then took some very fine end grain shavings. Will post photo soon. I have a couple of LNs and it is not far bahind them at all. I would be interested if anyone has the no 6 foreplane??
 
Funnily enough it is the No6 I fancy. I think it would make an excellent trio with a smoother and block and be a bit easier to handle than the No 7. As a bedrock it would be a much better bet than a Bailey pattern and a much cheaper option than the others.

I glad you agree with my view of the edge I was very pleasantly surprised. Since one of the earlier comments I have done a lot more work with it and found no ill effects.
 
The mention of Mr Grim reminded of sharpening and that the subject has just come up in book "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker" I am reading.
Back in pre 1839 days the Journeymen made most use of three types of planes - a Jack (which was used more like a Scrub), a Try (or True) and a Smoother.
Grinding was done on a grindstone wheel or a rubstone and honing carried out on a Turkey Stone or Charney Forest Stone (kept scrupulously flat after use by rubbing on another stone).
All done by eye and hand to form the "proper slant".

Rod
 
I would like to seek some advice here.
I have a small selection of old planes inherited from my father. A stanly 04.5 Ca 1950s, a Stanley 05.5 Ca 1960s, and a wooden jack plane and a Marples rebate plane of unknown vintage.

But I do not have a block plane and these look to be a great option offering a good compromise on cost and quality.

However I am unsure whether I should choose the block plane, or the low angle rebating plane, or do I need both?

I can see that the low angle rebating plane would allow me to clean up rebates, tenons etc. but would it also be suitable to do much the same tasks as the block plane?

Why would I need to purchase the block plane as well as the rebating plane? Can anyone give me some examples where the rebating plane would not be suitable, but the block plane would?
 
I'm not sure what you have in the Marples Rebate Plane but you do not have anything low angle which is particularly suitable for end grain. The rebating low angle block plane does this and cleans up tenons etc into corners like a shoulder plane but can also be used for general end grain and indeed planing small areas of flat surface.

There is a limitation however in that as you will use it for getting into corners then the blade should be honed straight accross and this will leave tram lines if used on a surface wider than the blade.

Your alternative is a low angle block plane (non rebating i.e with the blade not coming throught the sides) which is excellent for end grain work plus a shoulder plane for inside corners of any sort. Buy what you need when you have a job for it. HTH
 
I think the Rebate plane is a specialist item and I'd not recommend using it as a standard block plane.
 
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