Quality front door hinge and hardware advice

[[email protected]]

Hi Im looking for advice on some good quality front door hinges and hardware that wont break the bank. Im thinking something equivalent to Bloom in the kitchen cabinet world. Somewhere between Screwfix and Brusso.

Also similar in door locks, seals and handles?

 

[Doug71]

Give these guys a call, they will sort you out.

https://www.marchesironmongery.co.uk/

 

[Trevanion]

Are you making a door and frame from scratch or just putting stuff onto a pre-fab?

A lot of choices are down to personal preference and style of the door, for example putting brushed stainless steel hardware on a really classic Victorian door looks a little out of place compared to more traditional designs.

On my standard stuff, I like to use Eclipse Insignia Hinges with the Bronze washers, I prefer them over the ball bearing hinges because they don't leak black goop all over the frame and door in a couple months, they're about £10 a pair when they're not on special offer but well worth it, I put three on each door I do.

For a lock I like to use a Tornado three-point locking system for the added security and also fixing the door in three places on each side helps prevent door twist in natural timber doors. Westward do a package deal on these where they give you the lock system, keeps, the euro cylinder and a handle.

I tend to use stainless steel espag handles but again, it all depends on the style of door. All in, the hardware is usually about £150 of the cost of a door, it can sometimes be quite a bit more if you decide to go for that "From the Anvil" stuff which can be a bit hit and miss.

For seals, I use a Aquamac 124 seal on the rebate seat of the frame and an Aquamac 21 seal in the rebate itself but closer to the 124 seal so it doesn't foul the locking keeps and hinges:

 

[[email protected]]

Hi really appreciate the info. Ive bought a oak frame and a solid mahogony door.
https://www.doorsonlineuk.co.uk/externa ... -x-44mm-30

https://www.doorsonlineuk.co.uk/frames- ... mm-x-762mm

Would the seals and 3 point locking system need pre routering in? Shuld I fit the frame and door hinges before fitting the frame or after, I k ow some doors come pre fitted with a frame? Its for a shared ownership so Ive had to go for a Victorian style 6 panel door and really needs brass furniture.

 

[Trevanion]

I'd be very wary of what you've bought, I suspect both are just engineered timber veneered over and they don't have the best track record of staying in one piece after a few years in damp British conditions. I've seen several "Solid Hardwood" imitation Oak/Mahogany external doors shed their face veneers and blow out all the joints exposing either cheap laminated unknown hardwood, softwood or even chipboard in some cases inside the door.

To be brutally honest, I wouldn't waste the money on decent hardware on a sub-par piece of joinery.

 

[woodbloke66]

Give these guys a call, they will sort you out.

https://www.marchesironmongery.co.uk/

Yep, I generally use these guys for brass hinges and the right sized screws. Not cheap, but good quality - Rob

 

[Mike Jordan]

As suggested, the quality of the door and frame, judging by the price paid, will be hardly worth worrying about the quality of the fittings and furniture.
I regret that you have bought a couple of pieces of cheap imported carp and will be lucky to make it look acceptable.
A decent softwood door and frame would be a better bet but would still cost considerably more.

 

[Geoff_S]

That's an internal door, surely?

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for everyone's feedback, I understood that it was solid oak frame and solid mahogony not engineered wood but if people could forward me a better option Id appreciate it . I will double check tomorrow morning and let you all know what they said.
Much appreciated

 

[Doug71]

I have an account with XL Joinery but stopped supplying their external doors because I had problems with them. They are happy to replace the doors under guarantee but they don't pay for fitting and painting the replacement which leaves you out of pocket.

 

[Trevanion]

Thanks for everyone's feedback, I understood that it was solid oak frame and solid mahogony not engineered wood but if people could forward me a better option Id appreciate it .

It all depends really on what kind of quality you actually want and how much you're willing to spend for it, If you want a door to last the rest of your life, you've gotta pay for it.

Do not go with big companies like Everest for the love of god, the prices they quote for the rubbish they supply and actually get away with makes me sick. Find a back-street joinery workshop that'll make you something decent for a fair price.

 

[Artiglio]

I can only echo the comments regarding the quality of doors from “doors,on line” i fitted two for a friend who was on a budget . The “oak” front door did exactly as noted above veneer separated and exposed the core ( which was a finger jointed construction) this door survives after much redecoration and attention, the second ( solid hardwood) turned to mush inside 3 years and basically fell apart, i made a softwood replacement which 6 years later is as sound as day it was hung. ( being repainted this week)

 

[cookiemonster]

'These doors are of an engineered construction...' is what the website says.

So likely to be some kind of particle board covered in 10-20mm of hardwood on the edges and much less on the faces?

 

[[email protected]]

Good news Ive listen to all your comments and have asked for a refund.
If anyone knows of good companies in London that can make me fd30 rated door at reasonable price Id love to know. Im going to but my own hardwood and make the frame.
Thx again

 

[Trevanion]

I may be totally wrong here and I'm sure someone who actually knows like MikeG will correct me if I am wrong but I recall being told that so long as it's a proper solid timber door over 44mm in thickness (panels can be thinner than 44mm but need to be solid timber) with a door closer and intumescent stripping it will pass the fire door inspection but it just won't have the piece of paper that calls it officially a "fire door".

 

[Artiglio]

I’ve just reread the thread and had assumed that this was for an external door, however it looks as though its for a front door to a flat in a block. If that’s correct and the new door is to satisfy the findings of a fire risk assessment, then make sure you get it all done correctly. Post grenfell fire doors and their fitting has become a bit of an issue.
My local council refused to sign off doors installed for a housing association because the contractor had no “officially accredited fitters” thousand pound doors removed and replaced with 1300 ones.
Whilst it was technically possible to build a door to an acceptable standard, getting a one off accepted in a shared block today would likely be more trouble than its worth if not nigh on impossible, first thing any inspector wants to see is the certification sticker on top edge.

https://firedoors.bwf.org.uk/knowledge- ... tallation/

The industry is trying to work its way toward fire doors being some sort of black art needing specialist approved installers and annual inspections. Its not going anywhere fast . But there are millions of fire doors out there , passed by building control of the day that just won’t meet todays expectations.
So for a basic 6 panel door and frame that’s not going to be used externally Howdens offerings will do the job and you’ll get fire rated / certified hinges /locks /strips etc at same time.
I’m a landlord for my day job, and am upgrading doors on my flats as they become vacant. ( a conversion done in 2002 and a new build 2004) . Photographic record and receipts kept for each one done.