Push sticks again.......
- Thread starter Doug71
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That was indeed my intention to express.
I set the fence to the base of the gullet on the cutting end of the blade.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Some over-thinking going on here!
You set the short table so that the workpiece goes free of it just after the cut is completed. Then push it aside with your long push stick so that it doesn't foul the next piece coming through.
Or if you are pushing a sequence through you could have it longer so that it stays on line as it is pushed through by the follower.
Have a trial go.
You set the short table so that the workpiece goes free of it just after the cut is completed. Then push it aside with your long push stick so that it doesn't foul the next piece coming through.
Or if you are pushing a sequence through you could have it longer so that it stays on line as it is pushed through by the follower.
Have a trial go.
Jonm
Established Member
It has moved to table saw safety in general and is very useful and helpful to me. I still want to ask a question about fences and intend to post a question later.
Yojevol
Clocking on
That's right. The theory is that after the blade has done its job there is no guarantee that the workpiece will remain straight because of inbuilt stresses released by cutting it. Therefore there is no point in trying to keep it hard up against a fence. The fence is only there to guide the wood into the blade. The movement after cutting can be strong enough to force the wood into the back of the blade if it has a long fence to react against.
Brian
user 29368
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How does one manage this if the TS (A dewalt 745) has a fence that is the length of the table?
Is it considered acceptable to securely attached a short fence to the first 3rd of the long fence?
Is it considered acceptable to securely attached a short fence to the first 3rd of the long fence?
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Yes it's normal practice.
Video should start at the right point, please ignore his bad push stick advice
I just want to add my opinion how stupid some of the is, and i don't even have a TS nor do i want one.
I'm wearing a 20 ounce wax cotton apron, so I can stand in the firing line.
LOL
I'm wearing a ballistic vest so hey, point that rifle at me, I'll be fine!
Comedy gold!
user 29368
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Ok, thanks.
My first thought is that the the right side of the work peice (that is in contact with the fence) will be unsupported as the cut is finished and the wood pushed past and beyond the back of the blade.
I would have thought there's a chance for the the back edge of the wood to twist out to the left and contact the blade if it isn't pushed through perfectly straight.
Is that wrong?
What am I missing here?
Are there any guides demonstrating this set up please?
TheTiddles
Established Member
The "biesemeyer" fence was popular here - still is, or copies of it. full table length, very close to square and can be shimmed to near perfect and grabs a tube both in front of and behind a blade, so no deflection.
In the 1990s perhaps, the idea started to float around that everything in woodworking could be controlled down to a thousandth or two. Runout on TS blade of tiny amounts, fence rigid and very square, etc. It's the trip to paradise - everything perfect off of the tool.
Not to mention, the fence itself is mostly inexpensive tube and facing materials, so it can be included on saws that aren't that expensive.
We also have such things as "perfect" bandsaws that can cut veneers that need only a light sanding. I don't know how these things work in person because the saw that I had with a bies fence didn't have the inherent accuracy (lots of runout on the blade) and the bandsaw that I got from jet had almost a hundredth of difference in wheel radius on the top wheel, and it would sand deep grooves into resawn wood and knock the guides out of adjustment if you tried to close them dollar bill tight to the blade.
But it all sounds good in a brochure...
...plus you can apparently get an armor quality vest to feel comfortable about kickback into your face, as long as person who was looking to sell the vest can figure out how to fit it in a merch-push.
One would guess the desire to sell the apron was carved into the video in stone before the choice of making it about TS safety was ever determined. I didn't look up the apron, but I"m guessing that it's probably about double the price of a similar apron just found on amazon.
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
Yes. Page two in this thread, post number 38. Hopefully this link will take you straight to it. There are a couple of snaps in the post of a short fence in use for ripping and even a link within that post to a discussion of short fence use in a table saw.
Your concern that "there's a chance for the the back edge of the wood to twist out to the left and contact the blade" is, in practice, highly unlikely to occur. A saw with a properly set up riving knife and crown guard provides good protection against that, and a user would probably need to be particularly careless with such a set up to cause a kickback (or possibly determined to instigate contact of the tail end of the wood with the uprising rear teeth of a sawblade). In reality, once the cut is complete the piece being dimensioned normally drifts away from the blade. Slainte.
(couldn't resist - i followed the apron link - $40. that doesn't seem like too much of a foul. Amazon has a much larger version, though, heavy waxed canvas and longer for $28 or short similar ones for...
...wait for it..
...about half).
I'm surprised there wasn't a link for ballistics gel.
...wait for it..
...about half).
I'm surprised there wasn't a link for ballistics gel.
I'm inspired to add a supplemental short fence to my bosch TS even though it generally resides on the wall.
The desire to sell something in the US that locks front and back (I guess aimed at people who like the bies style stuff and the idea that it's rigid) results in a cheap extruded aluminum fence that does in fact lock front and back. However, it's ability to maintain the same squareness is poor and sometimes it locks drifting away from the blade, and other times toward.
this has always pissed me off immensely as a full length fence that drifts toward the back of a blade is yucky, even with a splitter. One that drifts significantly away is a pain to use, too. A better short fence that actually stayed a little straighter would be nice.
the lack of desire to solve this sooner is aided by the fact that I use a TS (now with another barrier of needing to get all of the black dust off of it before lifting it off of the wall or it will press against me and make me black, too) once a year or less. But my boy wants a loft bed, and that may be the chance to buy cheap wood and use power tools and paint.
The desire to sell something in the US that locks front and back (I guess aimed at people who like the bies style stuff and the idea that it's rigid) results in a cheap extruded aluminum fence that does in fact lock front and back. However, it's ability to maintain the same squareness is poor and sometimes it locks drifting away from the blade, and other times toward.
this has always pissed me off immensely as a full length fence that drifts toward the back of a blade is yucky, even with a splitter. One that drifts significantly away is a pain to use, too. A better short fence that actually stayed a little straighter would be nice.
the lack of desire to solve this sooner is aided by the fact that I use a TS (now with another barrier of needing to get all of the black dust off of it before lifting it off of the wall or it will press against me and make me black, too) once a year or less. But my boy wants a loft bed, and that may be the chance to buy cheap wood and use power tools and paint.
Sporky McGuffin
Light entertainer
My Bosch GTS10XC came with a thin stock subfence - ostensibly so that you can get a push stick between the fence and the crown guard when cutting something thin - but it also works very nicely as a short fence.
I also have a bit of melamine-faced ply with holes drilled in the edge and some of those fence clamps and use that when I want something taller than the thin stock fence.
I also have a bit of melamine-faced ply with holes drilled in the edge and some of those fence clamps and use that when I want something taller than the thin stock fence.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
D_W you have mentioned a couple times the Biesemeyer style fences as locking front and back. They only lock on the front tube. It is the roughly 16"/400mm wide T that keeps it stable once clamped. The back rail just being there to support the table extensions to the right of the saw and hold the end of the fence up. If one had a second T fence it could be cut to become a half fence ending at the blade and would take seconds to switch. It is cheaper to attach a short auxiliary fence to the long fence when needed.
Pete
Pete
Ahh...my apologies - I sold my TS somewhere around 2010 or slightly after, so I can only remember the two tubes.
As solid as the bies is, it'd be great for a supplemental attachment. I don't use a TS much, so I don't need a TS that couldn't be carried like a backpack, but having used a cabinet saw, then selling it and getting a new bosch saw (which you'd figure would be at least decent), the floppy fence was a rude awakening (though after it moves into a position you don't want it in, it does lock down securely into that position.
As solid as the bies is, it'd be great for a supplemental attachment. I don't use a TS much, so I don't need a TS that couldn't be carried like a backpack, but having used a cabinet saw, then selling it and getting a new bosch saw (which you'd figure would be at least decent), the floppy fence was a rude awakening (though after it moves into a position you don't want it in, it does lock down securely into that position.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
No need to apologize. I only mentioned it so others won't be confused. I have only used cabinet saws so have no desire to play with the little ones that weigh less than a nice plank of 8 quarter hardwood.
Pete
Pete
