Protective finish for workshop window frames

[ObiWayneKenobi]

Hi all. The last job on my workshop build is the window frames. I'm about to pick up the timber from Wickes (their standard Whitewood PSE). What is the best finish to protect this, given that one face will be open to the elements? The rest of the workshop has a clear finish so I'd like to keep the window frames the same, i.e. no stain, natural looking.

Second question, is the "Whitewood" the best material to use? It's stated for interior use which is partly the case for window frames but perhaps a treated wood would be better?

Thanks

 

[Misterdog]

If single glazed your frames will run with condensation and provide a free stain.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Stuff sold as 'whitewood' in the UK is spruce (Picea abies) often called Norway spruce or Sitka spruce. It's classified as non-durable meaning you can expect it to last up to five years in ground contact, longer obviously if exposed to weather away from ground contact.

Basically, I'd give up on the idea of using a clear finish and go for a good quality paint which you maintain on a regular basis, e.g., yearly or biannually. Sadolin is one good brand, but there are others. With luck, and with decent maintenance you should be able to stretch the lifetime of your windows up to ten, maybe even twenty years.

It's that or you switch to using a species with better durability characteristics, e.g., oak, sapele, iroko, etc, even . Slainte.

 

[Chippymint]

I made some pine window frames for my new workshop of now 8 years ago. With double glazing. I put on three coats of clear preserver/protector coat and after fully dried applied exterior Sikkens Oak stain base and top coat with UV protection. In this time I've applied two additional coats, just for added protection. There is no problem with the wood at all. The frames are 5ft by 3ft.

 

[ObiWayneKenobi]

Stuff sold as 'whitewood' in the UK is spruce (Picea abies) often called Norway spruce or Sitka spruce. It's classified as non-durable meaning you can expect it to last up to five years in ground contact, longer obviously if exposed to weather away from ground contact.

Basically, I'd give up on the idea of using a clear finish and go for a good quality paint which you maintain on a regular basis, e.g., yearly or biannually. Sadolin is one good brand, but there are others. With luck, and with decent maintenance you should be able to stretch the lifetime of your windows up to ten, maybe even twenty years.

It's that or you switch to using a species with better durability characteristics, e.g., oak, sapele, iroko, etc, even . Slainte.

Unsurprisingly Wickes didn't have any stock of the lengths I needed so I went to a more reliable timber merchants. I'm not sure what species it is but it looks better than the spruce from Wickes.

I'll give more consideration to painting the frames, thanks.

I made some pine window frames for my new workshop of now 8 years ago. With double glazing. I put on three coats of clear preserver/protector coat and after fully dried applied exterior Sikkens Oak stain base and top coat with UV protection. In this time I've applied two additional coats, just for added protection. There is no problem with the wood at all. The frames are 5ft by 3ft.

I'll look into the UV protector and see what other products Sikkens do, thanks.

 

[Jacob]

I'm a big fan of linseed oil paints, in fact I use nothing else on external softwood work. Not cheap by the tin but it's very economical in use and keeps the wood in good nick. It weathers from the surface instead of cracking/failing and peeling off.
It's very different from normal modern paints and easy to apply - has to be brushed out thin.
This is the best known but there are others: 1344ae24-8229-4f01-851a-7645ad9ce96a

 

[stimpy]

I would put a finish on the outside, ie preserver / sadolins etc, they have quite a few ranges and it's good stuff - have used before. Then inside you can do what you want really.

Generally if you are using a cheaper softwood and not painting then it just takes more maintenance is all but can last if kept up IMO.

And sure, a hardwood would indeed last longer...