Probably not the best marketing for Sawstop

[thetyreman]

the simplest and cheapest option is to just not use a table saw at all

 

[Bodgers]

People like John Heize and Matthias Wandel infuriate me. They both seem like really smart talented people, but when it comes to safety, they can't seem to grasp basic concepts. The attitude of I don't need the safety equipment because I know how to use a saw correctly is just dangerous. We're humans, not robots. No matter how much experience we have, all it takes is that one off day, or that one bit of unpredicatble material, or something that distracts us for whatever reason.

What's perhaps more concerning is the amount of people that look up to them and regurgitate the same rubbish which others will follow.

I think MW is more safety conscious than JH. The two sticks thing is something I bought into when I had my Tablesaw.

JH quite often is guiding stuff over the blade with his bare hands. He doesn't really believe in dust collection much either, which MW is pretty hot on.

I like JH's videos, but I think his (admitidly extensive) experience and belief in his tablesaw skills might bite one day bite back...

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[transatlantic]

I think MW is more safety conscious than JH

heh. Not so sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4A_HzgSA-5w

 

[Deadeye]

5ms stopping time at 4000rpm is 4/5 of a turn. On a 32 tooth blade that's 26 teeth going through your finger.

Typical reaction time is 200ms = over 1000 teeth going through your hand.

Having said that, how do folk manage groove cutting without taking the guard off? On my SIP, the riving knife has to come off too as it's taller than the blade.

 

[heimlaga]

By using an overarm guard and a riving knife that's just a wee bit lower than the blade.

In my oppinion those guards mounted on tall riving knives are only there to guard the manufacturer against any claims from people being hurt.

 

[Jacob]

I do grooving and other dangerous things but with two push sticks. Very safe unless you are a push stick.
This sort - all other fancy designs to be avoided:

 

[Ttrees]

Jacob
Have you got a link or title of a youtube video of the exact procedure
you would do, ripping some...say 3 inch stock?

[Edit] Have you ever seen a youtube video that you would recommend on the matter
regarding this procedure by anyone ...
Maybe not the whole video, but a snippet of one?
I can fish the video out if you give me a vague idea of the video,
I'd safely say I have watched them all, so should be easy to find.

I have basically been doing what you recommend by the sounds of things,
since you mentioned the plane shape pusher was inferior.
I agreed as you can be a bit close to the work.
I use a face mask respirator when cutting, it takes away some perception.

I cant say I recall what happened exactly, but I got a fright when I touched the end of the left pusher off of the blade, and it slammed this straight pusher stick with a notch on the end, down into the ZCI with force.
It might have been more scary if my ZCI had broke

Tom

 

[Jacob]

What is a ZCI?
Can't say I've had a scary experience with push sticks (proper ones, not just a lath with a notch). The worst that happens is that a bit of the end gets trimmed off.
I've never seen a vid either.

There's a photo on this thread
push-blocks-t107009.html?hilit=push%20sticks&start=30
of me using push sticks on a bit of board. There isn't much else to show - you move them about a bit obviously and vary the pressure and direction. Much more controllable than you'd think at first glance.
There was an argument on the thread, but I am right and they are wrong!

 

[Ttrees]

Hello again Jacob
ZCI = zero clearance insert
custom made insert plate for tidier cuts, lessened chance of off cuts getting trapped between blade in ripping operations
and so on...
I would argue there's more to be seen, than what you show in that picture.
I have made one push stick like what you show, but just made a notch in a straight length for the left hand.
I will make another one now seeing as you've kind of suggested it, it would be stupid not to, since
I dont recall picking it up even, in my left hand, so whatta do I know?
Thanks

Tom

 

[Jacob]

Hello again Jacob
ZCI = zero clearance insert
custom made insert plate for tidier cuts, lessened chance of off cuts getting trapped between blade in ripping operations
and so on...
I would argue there's more to be seen, than what you show in that picture.
I have made one push stick like what you show, but just made a notch in a straight length for the left hand.
I will make another one now seeing as you've kind of suggested it, it would be stupid not to, since
I dont recall picking it up even, in my left hand, so whatta do I know?
Thanks

Tom

Oh right - yes I do know what a ZCI is but I've never heard it called that.
Yes there is more than the picture. The picture looks unconvincing I know but in fact that was an action shot whilst I was doing it. The push sticks I keep going on about are much more subtle than they look. No point in trying to explain but if you get around to using them you will find out.
After a bit you find you use them all the time on saw, spindle and planer, except for big pieces which are so big that there is no risk of coming into contact with the cutters. Even then it's essential to have them for the last bit of the cut over a planer, where the blades are suddenly uncovered just at the moment when you have both hands on the end of a heavy piece which you are trying to hold down.
They are consumable and expect to replace them regularly - or trim the ends to re shape the notch. You can make the notch smaller for thin workpieces.
I make copies from ply or mdf. Solid wood less good because of tendency to split, whereas ply and mdf just get harmlessly trimmed if they touch the cutters.

 

[Ttrees]

Thanks Jacob
I guess I will do some mock ups when I make the pushstick, before starting a few times.
I might not be using the saw for a while though, as I don't want to set dust everywhere, I have to do work in stages with the iroko.
I might post a piccy or two, when I make the second, left hand one, from plywood this time...
I suspect it might have not been as big of a thud pushing it into the blade head on (by accident) if it
were less dense.
I shall try to keep it back somewhat anyway.


Tom

 

[Jacob]

I'd just buy a couple from Axminster or somewhere. They are dirt cheap and worth it in time saved making a pattern. Then use them and/or copy them in ply or mdf.

I suspect it might have not been as big of a thud pushing it into the blade head on (by accident) if it
were less dense.

Well yes. And use cheap 12mm ply - the soft sort, not top quality birch through. If it gets nicked by the blade you don't want it to fight back!