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do you have any plans you would be willing to share for this?
Hi Joe

Some notes; I'm not much of a photographer so no "in progress" shots.

Dimensions are 850 wide x 1500 long x 750 tall

Top is three boards of uneven width. I think it's 43mm thick in the end. One had quite a twist (it started at 51mm) so I flattened with a router sled initially. I don't have a Domino, so they're dowelled together. I went a bit overboard - 25 down each join. I filled a couple of small knot holes with clear resin and sanded it all round. There's a smallish roundover routed onto all the egdes.

I made a hardboard mock up of the legs, with a small bolt through the centre, like a large pair of scissors. I could then open until I got a width I liked and lock it. I used that to transfer the angles to my table saw for the interlocking rabbets. I tidied the bottom of the rabbet with a chisel. As long as you cut all the pieces the same, it will work, even if you're a smidge out on setting the angle - it just means you have a mm or two more or less spread of the legs.

I did all that with the legs overlength and then marked and cut them flat to meet the floor and top. I cut a largish wedge using the angle set for the legs and then used the wedge to get to the reciprocal angle for this cut. It's a bit hard to explain but you'll see if you have a play with paper and scissors.

The curve at the outside of the legs is simply bandsaw and sanding.

Then cut the mortises where the legs intersect. I used a forstner, but I think a router would have been better. Do them as a joined pair and mark them as a pair because although in theory all the bits are identical, in practice...

The stretcher is sized to fit the diamond of the intersection of the legs. A tenon each end which I made smaller then 1/3rds because I wanted to leave as much wood in the leg intersection as possible. It doesn't have to be a perfect tight fit in the mortise as the main action is the shoulder pressing on the inside. I left twice the leg thickness on the outside and then marked and cut the slots for the wedges.

The legs mount into retaining blocks under the top with a beefy tenon. They're offcuts from the legs and 45mm thick. The blocks have a slot each end (in line with the legs and across the grain of the top) to allow for movement of the top against two fixing bolts. Loose fit onto the top of the legs. The slots are 3cm long and 8mm wide, cut with a router (which was terrifying as they're quite deep.

Invert the table top and centre the (inverted) legs. Then mark the slots through onto the underside of the tabletop (doing all this last forgives any slight twist in the leg assembly). I used hex-drive 10mm/8mm threaded inserts (stainless) and placed them in the middle of the slot mark (be very careful with your depth!). In hindsight, I should have gone more towards the outside end as I completed the project in quite damp weather and the top is likely to shrink more then expand. There's room to lengthen them if I need. The 8 bolts are stainless roundhead with penny washers. They don't want to be cinched up tight as they need to slide. I put some candle wax along the surface.

Finish is 2 coats of Osmo topoil clear matt.

That's it. I made a spare wedge for when one gets lost in a move. The hardest things were
- joining up the top boards (because I'd got too many dowels in and the glue was a bit fast. Use cauls (2x4 edge on or similar) to keep it flat when clamping, and greaseproof paper to stop the cauls sticking to the joins
- Sorting out the leg angles. The hardboard really helped, as did the realisation that all 4 legs are identical in every way
 
beautiful work, I'm curious about the folding feature, I can't imagine many scenarios where I'd want that on an outdoor bench?
Thank you for your praise, to be honest when I get a commission to make something, other than considering the cost and method of construction I don't question the clients reasons, but In this case the client has a small garden, and wanted something that could easily be put out of the way and without taking up a lot of space in winter.

Doesn't the folding feature also make it easier to make? Fewer joints.
There are nominally less joints, but not sure I'd say any easier to make, things have to line up in order for it to work.
 
Made a smokers bow chair from the Jack Hill's country chair book plans. Elm for seat and arms and beech for the spindles.

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Box for myself for a change made from drawers I found in a skip, box top from the top off a chest of drawers also found in a skip, leather took off a sofa I used to own
 

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I finished this job this morning......True Handless style kitchen.
I made all the cabinets, doors and panels.
Door / Panel material is from a Spanish company called Alvic and is from their Cuzco Luxe range of Hi Gloss MDF boards.
Base units are 780mm high + 100mm plinth
Appliances are all Siemens, apart from the Wine Cooler which was the customers own from their previous kitchen that I did for them 11 years ago in their previous house.
Worktops & upstands are Black Pearl Granite, Sink is from Blanco, Tap is from Quooker, all Glass & mirror splashbacks are from Contempo Glass up in Yorkshire.

The most challenging part of the job was building the subframe for and attaching & bending the 0.8mm thick Stainless Steel curved Island end panel.

Customer is well happy, so that's all that matters in the end...👍

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I finished this job this morning......True Handless style kitchen.
I made all the cabinets, doors and panels.
Door / Panel material is from a Spanish company called Alvic and is from their Cuzco Luxe range of Hi Gloss MDF boards.
Base units are 780mm high + 100mm plinth
Appliances are all Siemens, apart from the Wine Cooler which was the customers own from their previous kitchen that I did for them 11 years ago in their previous house.
Worktops & upstands are Black Pearl Granite, Sink is from Blanco, Tap is from Quooker, all Glass & mirror splashbacks are from Contempo Glass up in Yorkshire.

The most challenging part of the job was building the subframe for and attaching & bending the 0.8mm thick Stainless Steel curved Island end panel.

Customer is well happy, so that's all that matters in the end...👍

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I like the kitchen, very well put together.
 
Finally finished the crib - just in time as my wife is ready to pop!

American cherry for framework and mix of cherry and beech for bars.

Can be adjusted to 2 positions and in the top position it can support my body weight so I’m sure it’ll be sturdy enough.

Joinery:
Bars attached with floating tenons.
Sides removable: secured with brass screws, and supported by the cherry through dowels which slot into the sides.
M&T joints for apron into post.

Finish is sanding sealer and Hampshire sheen wax.

Next to the crib is a little ash stool I made also.

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So it started out as a simple clean up ready for tomorrow's landlord inspection, next thing I know I've ripped everything out of the garage and rearranged the makerspace, I was getting annoyed with the kitchen cupboards, they took up too much space and didn't offer enough shelving in return so I removed them and put up more of the metal verticals seeing as I've emptied out 2 cupboards in school freeing up a dozen lengths plus brackets and shelves, once these were up I placed the lathe in a better position than it was and built a shelf that fits just under the metal shelf on my stand and another just under the lathe rails, fitted a length of 4x1.5 and drilled it out to hold my gouges, scrapers etc then a couple of shelves another that, next is to move all the wood from above the worktop by the bandsaw over to the shelving above the lathe then I can put my consumables and embellishments etc above the worktop, still a lot to do and only 2 weeks to get it done so the schools gas meter can be upgraded without my stuff being in the way.
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I finished this job this morning......True Handless style kitchen.
I made all the cabinets, doors and panels.
Door / Panel material is from a Spanish company called Alvic and is from their Cuzco Luxe range of Hi Gloss MDF boards.
Base units are 780mm high + 100mm plinth
Appliances are all Siemens, apart from the Wine Cooler which was the customers own from their previous kitchen that I did for them 11 years ago in their previous house.
Worktops & upstands are Black Pearl Granite, Sink is from Blanco, Tap is from Quooker, all Glass & mirror splashbacks are from Contempo Glass up in Yorkshire.

The most challenging part of the job was building the subframe for and attaching & bending the 0.8mm thick Stainless Steel curved Island end panel.

Customer is well happy, so that's all that matters in the end...👍

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Top knotch ♥️
 
My missus volunteered me to make a backgammon board as a 70th birthday gift for my FIL. White oak, sapele and walnut. I didn't make the counters or the dice. This is the first thing I've made which I've been sad to give away!
Absolutely beautiful. I have been meaning to make something similar for far too long. This is an inspiration.
 
I finished this job this morning......True Handless style kitchen.
I made all the cabinets, doors and panels.
Door / Panel material is from a Spanish company called Alvic and is from their Cuzco Luxe range of Hi Gloss MDF boards.
Base units are 780mm high + 100mm plinth
Appliances are all Siemens, apart from the Wine Cooler which was the customers own from their previous kitchen that I did for them 11 years ago in their previous house.
Worktops & upstands are Black Pearl Granite, Sink is from Blanco, Tap is from Quooker, all Glass & mirror splashbacks are from Contempo Glass up in Yorkshire.

The most challenging part of the job was building the subframe for and attaching & bending the 0.8mm thick Stainless Steel curved Island end panel.
OOOOF - that is quality. Always better though when a component is from God's own county. ;-)
 
So it started out as a simple clean up ready for tomorrow's landlord inspection, next thing I know I've ripped everything out of the garage and rearranged the makerspace, I was getting annoyed with the kitchen cupboards, they took up too much space and didn't offer enough shelving in return so I removed them and put up more of the metal verticals seeing as I've emptied out 2 cupboards in school freeing up a dozen lengths plus brackets and shelves, once these were up I placed the lathe in a better position than it was and built a shelf that fits just under the metal shelf on my stand and another just under the lathe rails, fitted a length of 4x1.5 and drilled it out to hold my gouges, scrapers etc then a couple of shelves another that, next is to move all the wood from above the worktop by the bandsaw over to the shelving above the lathe then I can put my consumables and embellishments etc above the worktop, still a lot to do and only 2 weeks to get it done so the schools gas meter can be upgraded without my stuff being in the way.
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Looks to be well tidy and organised! Keep an eye on them when they come to change the meter, I wouldn’t put it past them to change all the pipe work so your bits won’t fit.
Ian
Ian
 
Looks to be well tidy and organised! Keep an eye on them when they come to change the meter, I wouldn’t put it past them to change all the pipe work so your bits won’t fit.
Ian
Ian
At worst they might have to adjust the height of the bracket the meter sits on, aside from that there isn't much they can change 🤪 I did have a minutes pause when they told me the new meter sends readings back, I had to ask if it will need an electrical supply, apparently it won't with is a relief seeing as I pay the electricity bill for the house and garage so would have refused to have the schools meter connected.
 

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