Jameshow
Established Member
Do you heat treat your own blades?
Post a photo of the last thing you made
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Hino
Established Member
Made this Stow-and-Go Sharpening Box based on the Bob Van **** Fine Woordworking project. Made from some salvaged Poplar book shelves and all done with hand tools, included resawing to made the dividers (I think I need a band saw!). First time with box mitres which fell apart on 3 of the corners before I opted to put some splines in. Dovetails methinks next time!
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Yes, to the extent that I heat them with a MAPP torch, oil quench and temper them. Heat treating moulding plane blades is pretty easy because the area requiring hardening is small.
It’s a subject I wish I knew more about, one day I’m sure I’ll end up spending some money on it.
glwoodturning
Member
Nothing very grand about my project, I saw (no pun intended!) a similar bowl about 6" across on the www, bought a drawing and made one. I decided that I would like to make a larger version so drew this one up. It is approx. 11" by 21/2" made from 1/4" wood, mahogany? I couldn't get a piece wide enough so you can see the joint's (unlike Ernie Wise's wig)
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How the heck do you make that?!
lee1596
Established Member
A very basic bird box (for robins) done in about 30 minutes, with a nice panel saw, cheap 18v drill, hammer, screwdriver and rasp. The aim was to test out cut nails for the first time, but while making something useful, used them for all joints except the lid and fence attachment as I want to be able to remove those. Scrap wood, hence the water damage. Not got a working plane and shooting board yet so the joints aren't great. Turns out cut nails are great when the pilot hole is the right size.
Jameshow
Established Member
Look up a guy called DW Canadian I think, he uses to post on here but fell out with someone...
His specialist area was chisels.
SammyQ
Established Member
David Weaver. Loquacious....
thetyreman
Established Member
even better just buy weygers the complete modern blacksmith, it's very good.
niall Y
Established Member
I like your archeological strata it reminds me of those souvenirs from the Isle of Wight, that use different coloured sand in glass containers.
As for the Elm, I find it is one of those woods that sometimes smells of 'stewed apples', and other times of 'cow pats'
I seem to have cow pat elm unfortunately.I like your archeological strata it reminds me of those souvenirs from the Isle of Wight, that use different coloured sand in glass containers.
As for the Elm, I find it is one of those woods that sometimes smells of 'stewed apples', and other times of 'cow pats'
HOJ
Established Member
Not particularly interesting, I quite regularly get asked to make wide, 32mm thick, Oak door linings, my method is to laminate book matched 8mm Oak skins on to 24mm ply.
It does work out cost effective, these are 300mm wide.
Cut and laid out:
Glued and in the vacuum press:
Out of the bag ready for clean up:
Sanded, and grooved:
It does work out cost effective, these are 300mm wide.
Cut and laid out:
Glued and in the vacuum press:
Out of the bag ready for clean up:
Sanded, and grooved:
glwoodturning
Member
Cut out the inner 'ring' first then repeat until all are cut- on Hegner scroll saw. Place outer ring down and place next largest ring on top, rotate about 7 degrees mark where it contacts the outer ring, remove it put spots of super glue where marked and glue down. Repeat for the other 'rings' It is easier than it sounds. I found a video and drawings on the web when ;looking for fretsaw bowls.
Andy's Shed
Established Member
After previously making a carved sign for my sister in law, I thought I'd make one for ourselves. This time I wanted to try using my trim router to remove the bulk of the background material, it was all done by hand the last time and it was a right pain in the rear.
The piece of Oak to be used, I forget which font I used?
Most of the background removed, this saved me a lot of time. I'll admit to being a bit apprehensive using the router, I think I've only used it a 2 or 3 times before.
Carving out and defining the letters was very time consuming, by this point I was kicking myself for using a font with these small areas in the letters.
I went over the whole background with a fairly flat gouge and got it nice and smooth, then, for whatever reason I decided to sand it.
I didn't like it at all! Back into the shed today and time to give it back some texture.
3 days later and I'm quite happy with the final result (there's still room for improvement, if I can figure out how).
The piece of Oak to be used, I forget which font I used?
Most of the background removed, this saved me a lot of time. I'll admit to being a bit apprehensive using the router, I think I've only used it a 2 or 3 times before.
Carving out and defining the letters was very time consuming, by this point I was kicking myself for using a font with these small areas in the letters.
I went over the whole background with a fairly flat gouge and got it nice and smooth, then, for whatever reason I decided to sand it.
I didn't like it at all! Back into the shed today and time to give it back some texture.
3 days later and I'm quite happy with the final result (there's still room for improvement, if I can figure out how).
Andy's Shed
Established Member
It's very relaxing, just take your time with it.
ShavedSpoke
Established Member
That sign is fantastic. Definitely gives it an extra hand-crafted dimension with the background texture.
Andy's Shed
Established Member
It also help to draw the eyes away from the 'other' tool marks
ShavedSpoke
Established Member
Made myself a Paul Sellers router plane. Had a piece of beech I'd earmarked for this kicking around for over a year. Finally pulled my finger out over the weekend and got it done.
