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Here are a few things my wife has made recently. There are more in the similar wood turning thread.

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They were an exercise in learning the bandsaw.

She started with the large one as it was easier then progressed to the smaller ones as her confidence grew. This was the family line up before they were wrapped and given away.
 
I hope this is reasonably self explanatory.
The thing Im most pleased with is the jig to stretch the bit of bicycle inner tube. Stretching it to fit in the saw cuts with epoxy on and then releasing it so the rubber becomes fat and a tight fit!
What a good solution the the problem of getting the inner tube in the slit. The explanation is great, and well presented. I have trouble documenting things like that, I never seem to get around to it.
A smashing dog too.
geoff
 
Here's the last thing I made, a sausaging big hole in a wall due to a leak from all this damnable rain!
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Oak and burr chestnut dressing table. 1220mm long X 480mm deep x 750mm high. The top is 150mm at the centr
The top is 15mm birch ply with 3 quartered panels of bur chestnut which is edged all round with a 50mm oak frame.
The lower curved part of the top is laminated oak
The legs are laminated in parts and then joined. Edges of the legs are given a 6mm radius. If anybody wants I can do a separate write up on making the legs
Drawers are made with through dovetails ceder of lebanon bottons with slips and planted on drawer fronts, he middle one is straight forward but the 2 side drawers have different height sides and are a bit awkward. Handles are small turned ebony Small drawer on the right has a false base with hidden compartment below. The drawers and the back panels are all inset 1.5mm.
The back panels are identical to the front drawers, Last images show how these are screwed to support blocks from inside
Finish is a lot of danish oil
Straight lines. Who needs them?
Ian
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Oak and burr chestnut dressing table. 120mm long X 480mm deep x 750mm high. The top is 150mm at the centr
The top is 15mm birch ply with 3 quartered panels of bur chestnut which is edged all round with a 50mm oak frame.
The lower curved part of the top is laminated oak
The legs are laminated in parts and then joined. Edges of the legs are given a 6mm radius. If anybody wants I can do a separate write up on making the legs
Drawers are made with through dovetails ceder of lebanon bottons with slips and planted on drawer fronts, he middle one is straight forward but the 2 side drawers have different height sides and are a bit awkward. Handles are small turned ebony Small drawer on the right has a false base with hidden compartment below
The back panels are identical to the front drawers, Last images show how these are screwed to support blocks from inside
Finish is a lot of danish oil
Straight lines. Who needs them?
Ian
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Amazing design and craftsmanship. It's beautiful
 
Oak and burr chestnut dressing table. 1220mm long X 480mm deep x 750mm high. The top is 150mm at the centr
The top is 15mm birch ply with 3 quartered panels of bur chestnut which is edged all round with a 50mm oak frame.
The lower curved part of the top is laminated oak
The legs are laminated in parts and then joined. Edges of the legs are given a 6mm radius. If anybody wants I can do a separate write up on making the legs
Drawers are made with through dovetails ceder of lebanon bottons with slips and planted on drawer fronts, he middle one is straight forward but the 2 side drawers have different height sides and are a bit awkward. Handles are small turned ebony Small drawer on the right has a false base with hidden compartment below. The drawers and the back panels are all inset 1.5mm.
The back panels are identical to the front drawers, Last images show how these are screwed to support blocks from inside
Finish is a lot of danish oil
Straight lines. Who needs them?
Ian
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Very nice indeed Ian, did you buy the burr as a veneer?
Another Ian
 
Very nice indeed Ian, did you buy the burr as a veneer?
Another Ian
Good morning Ian. I bought 2 full packs of 24 leaves of veneer. This is the first pack and used 16 sheets. The seller also gave me a further pack of small sheets FOC which I used to make a blanket chest. The key with burr veneers is to soften and flatten them and then repair all the small pin holes (I use CA glue and sawdust from the veneer) otherwise the glue comes through when pressing and is much more difficult to deal with
Ian
 
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Just for a laugh….

I 3d printed a rabbet plane today. I was making some templates based on a Tyzack plane I have, so I can easily mark up nice teardrop escapements and skewed mortises etc.

Then I thought, well why not give it a try. I’d worked out all the dimensions for the template.

I fear it will be nothing like rigid enough but it’s a fun thing to try out. Obviously it is too short but that’s a feature of the 3d printer.

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I hope this is reasonably self explanatory.
The thing Im most pleased with is the jig to stretch the bit of bicycle inner tube. Stretching it to fit in the saw cuts with epoxy on and then releasing it so the rubber becomes fat and a tight fit!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I don't own a lathe so I can't use your method for making the wheels. However, it has given me some ideas.
I think I'll try an alternative to the tyre inner tube for connecting the body segments. Instead of having slots I'll cut all the way through and glue the two halves to a strip of leather (instead of innertube rubber). Since that won't be a very robust joint, I'll drill a couple of small diameter holes through each segment (going through the leather) and then glue in dowels. That should hold the leather strip tightly in place.
If I can come up with a quick way of doing the wheels, I think I might even turn it in to a centipede!
Thanks again for the ideas.
 
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I don't own a lathe so I can't use your method for making the wheels. However, it has given me some ideas.
I think I'll try an alternative to the tyre inner tube for connecting the body segments. Instead of having slots I'll cut all the way through and glue the two halves to a strip of leather (instead of innertube rubber). Since that won't be a very robust joint, I'll drill a couple of small diameter holes through each segment (going through the leather) and then glue in dowels. That should hold the leather strip tightly in place.
If I can come up with a quick way of doing the wheels, I think I might even turn it in to a centipede!
Thanks again for the ideas.
Wooden wheels available here:
https://hobby.uk.com/components/wheels-accessories.html?limit=all
 
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