Stigmorgan
Established Member
Nothing I can say out loud on a public forum ☺☺☺
Post a photo of the last thing you made
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Jameshow
Established Member
Your privileged!
Started building the base frame for the new workshop, which is due for delivery on the 22nd
One more knife - this time for me. .08" AEB-L stainless, probably about 61 hardness. rosewood handles. I made another one of this pattern for someone else, pictured earlier, and thought I would like to have it. but I now have five or six chef's knives of my own to figure out later.
this one still could use a little bit more finish in the front handle notch, and then I'll trim the last bit of filth that remains above the heel (it's just glue or something) and trim the glue at the front of the handle off so that it's crisp. That is just done with a fresh burr on a card scraper. it'll cut through finish easily, but the blade hardness will prevent it from marking the knife at all, even if the burr isn't very neat.
Aesthetics of making are getting better, but could still improve. As i've gotten older, I find it more interesting to figure out how to do things more neatly with repetition, and actually decreasing time to make each one vs. getting absurd with overly careful process and increasing time.
I did learn a lesson on this one. the handle finish is CA, so adding more in the front divot won't be any issue. It's not hard to add CA, but it's kind of miserable, so after filling the pores, I tried to switch to brushing lacquer. but even with a mechanical sanding (220 grit), the lacquer didn't adhere enough and as I was leveling it, some of a patch about the size of a BB broke loose. that was enough to kind of ruin the whole thing and I went all the way back to wood and just did CA. I don't know that a transition of shellac would improve things, but i'm trying to get to a decent moderate gloss handle faster and not slower with more steps.
so, it's either lacquer or CA, but not both.
The virtue of CA is that you can put it on and fill pores at the same time and it won't shrink back like lacquer and shellac wil.
This knife is blinding sharp, and I leave the heel on. I got nicked by it on two different fingers and it was almost a "nerve" less cut not felt at all.
this one still could use a little bit more finish in the front handle notch, and then I'll trim the last bit of filth that remains above the heel (it's just glue or something) and trim the glue at the front of the handle off so that it's crisp. That is just done with a fresh burr on a card scraper. it'll cut through finish easily, but the blade hardness will prevent it from marking the knife at all, even if the burr isn't very neat.
Aesthetics of making are getting better, but could still improve. As i've gotten older, I find it more interesting to figure out how to do things more neatly with repetition, and actually decreasing time to make each one vs. getting absurd with overly careful process and increasing time.
I did learn a lesson on this one. the handle finish is CA, so adding more in the front divot won't be any issue. It's not hard to add CA, but it's kind of miserable, so after filling the pores, I tried to switch to brushing lacquer. but even with a mechanical sanding (220 grit), the lacquer didn't adhere enough and as I was leveling it, some of a patch about the size of a BB broke loose. that was enough to kind of ruin the whole thing and I went all the way back to wood and just did CA. I don't know that a transition of shellac would improve things, but i'm trying to get to a decent moderate gloss handle faster and not slower with more steps.
so, it's either lacquer or CA, but not both.
The virtue of CA is that you can put it on and fill pores at the same time and it won't shrink back like lacquer and shellac wil.
This knife is blinding sharp, and I leave the heel on. I got nicked by it on two different fingers and it was almost a "nerve" less cut not felt at all.
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Cherry and Masur Birch jewellery box
cowtown_eric
Established Member
A vacuum adapter for our makerspace jet 1236 lathe!
Now to fabricate the chuck!
Eric in the colonies
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A pair of stainless card scrapers made on a whim. As in, if a card scraper works well in 1095, but would be brittle if it was harder (it would be), what about a steel that has a higher toughness by a factor of about four and that will tolerate having a burr rolled when it's harder.
Same steel as I use in a harder temper for knives shown here, but tempered back to be just barely suitable for filing, or probably high 50s hardness.
Turns out to work really well and create a stronger really fine burr, but hard on files, and possibly hard on burnishers.
The fineness of the burr and the hardness makes it easier to have a burr that doesn't roll over too far and so far, doesn't get ratty very easily. Without having to prep the edge and face with a fine stone - the shavings below are off of india stone prep only after filing, and using a very small piece of polished carbide rod.
After finding out that this steel makes really thin knives that are almost impractical unless they're tiny (everything sticks to them on a taller knife due to the lack of wedging), I was mildly concerned that I wouldn't be able to figure out what to do with the very thin stock steel.
Not that much of a "make", just bar stock that I hardened and tempered and prepped. But sometimes curiosity is best addressed by satisfying it rather than stuffing it off.
One other aside - the cards are definitely a lot stiffer than typical spring, but they won't break. It's noticeable and there's no need to really thumb them close to the edge - not necessarily a bad thing if your thumbs are temp sensitive.
well, and I guess they won't rust. but hopefully that's not a practical issue for most.
Same steel as I use in a harder temper for knives shown here, but tempered back to be just barely suitable for filing, or probably high 50s hardness.
Turns out to work really well and create a stronger really fine burr, but hard on files, and possibly hard on burnishers.
The fineness of the burr and the hardness makes it easier to have a burr that doesn't roll over too far and so far, doesn't get ratty very easily. Without having to prep the edge and face with a fine stone - the shavings below are off of india stone prep only after filing, and using a very small piece of polished carbide rod.
After finding out that this steel makes really thin knives that are almost impractical unless they're tiny (everything sticks to them on a taller knife due to the lack of wedging), I was mildly concerned that I wouldn't be able to figure out what to do with the very thin stock steel.
Not that much of a "make", just bar stock that I hardened and tempered and prepped. But sometimes curiosity is best addressed by satisfying it rather than stuffing it off.
One other aside - the cards are definitely a lot stiffer than typical spring, but they won't break. It's noticeable and there's no need to really thumb them close to the edge - not necessarily a bad thing if your thumbs are temp sensitive.
well, and I guess they won't rust. but hopefully that's not a practical issue for most.
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ColinDeVelen
Established Member
ColinDeVelen
Established Member
Tris
What am I doing here?
A pallet wood Xmas scene and quick project inspired by a Scandinavian turner whose name escapes me at the moment.
Kay bojesen i believe
i love what you have made. those animals , are actually hard to make. if not right proportions they look off. you did a very nice job. they are awesome woodturning practice for skill building,
Tris
What am I doing here?
Thank you for those kind words Lefley. I've not had much time for turning this year but have been watching Steve Jones (woodturner21 on YouTube) recently and was inspired to break out the skew chisel
Very pretty! Good and tasteful use of masur birch! A lot of details and pattern without making it busy.
Doug B
Shy Tot
some last minute turning.
Temporary cabinet knobs turned to the specs of metal ones that have failed to arrive in time to be fitted before Xmas
Turned from recycled hemlock which gave a nice finish
Temporary cabinet knobs turned to the specs of metal ones that have failed to arrive in time to be fitted before Xmas
Turned from recycled hemlock which gave a nice finish
top of doors finished now.
Attachments
I’ve made my first foray into the world of MFT. I bought the Tim Wilkerson plans for an MFTC, MFT Cart.
Plenty of screw ups along the way, starting with the choice of the cheapest ply I could get from B&Q. It was also my first time using a track saw and dominoes. So really this is my first power tools project.
The real wood bits are Beech. I bought a few planks of it about five years ago and now having a saw that can cut it decided to put it to use.
Edited to change the solid wood the beech not birch…
Plenty of screw ups along the way, starting with the choice of the cheapest ply I could get from B&Q. It was also my first time using a track saw and dominoes. So really this is my first power tools project.
The real wood bits are Beech. I bought a few planks of it about five years ago and now having a saw that can cut it decided to put it to use.
Edited to change the solid wood the beech not birch…
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The white tray is removable, it locates on dominoes on the rail and a support on the cart. Once that is removed the legs hinge inwards to fit against the table and then the table hinges down. The tray then fits in the gap between the top and the cart. The handle slides up and is locked in position with toggle clips.
