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Storage unit with a drawer and pull-out tray next to our coffee machine (just the column to the left of the cupboard/bookshelf - they're repurposed from a base cupboard and dresser unit that were elsewhere in the kitchen) 18mm MR MDF, a length of new oak for the lipping and re-using bits of the plate rack for drawer fronts.

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Don't post stuff I make often...

Just finished this this afternoon. I made neon letters a while ago - one for each of our kids. Making neon letters, especially small ones, is tricky particularly when, like me, your hot glass skills are mediocre at best. I had several false starts and maybe 5 failures for each letter I successfully completed to filling with gas & bombarding etc. This tube is actually argon rather than neon filled - argon gives a very light blue/whiteish light rather than the orange of neon. I cunningly call these "Letter Boxes". Subtle, eh?

So, this is "R" for Robert. The box is oak reclaimed from an old shelf with Macassar Ebony splines. The letter is backed by a nice piece of Honduras Rosewood. The back is birch faced very thin ply recovered from the base of an old drawer, held in place by socketed M3 bolts to discourage prying fingers - there's 2000V in the box. Finish is Liberon Finishing Oil.

The high voltage sign transformer and a Sonoff wireless/internet switch (so the unit can be controlled from my son's phone) are in another tamper-proof box with special high voltage cable connecting it to the letter.

Colour in the photos is a bit green as something in the electronics is confusing my phone camera.

One more to make yet...
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Here's a picture of a neon M I did a while ago with half blind dovetails for comparison.

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Lots of workshop sorting out this weekend. I made a new stand for the sander I bought a few months back.
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First time I’ve made anything with splayed legs since I got a mortice machine. Realised I had to have angled tenons else I’d be cutting the mortices by hand, which wasn’t happening! I like building furniture for the shop as any errors are not a problem. So a quick low stress build, which of course resulted in no errors, tight joints and a great outcome when it didn’t really matter.

I also finally sorted some clamp storage and got the mitre saw and router table out of the way.
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I needed to get things out the way as I’ve a cunning plan to cut up the sleepers that I’ve had lying around for years. They are big and heavy so need infeed and outfeed tables.
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The saw manages but struggles as it is hard to feed smoothly and when you feed too hard it slows down. One cut took forever and was exhausting as making the wood slide in a controlled way means lifting most of the weight myself. The outcome was better than hoped and I think I’m going to order so rollers and see if that helps.
 
Took the rough sawn board down flat and true. I had tried to saw it to 40mm, it came off the saw rather uneven, with the thinnest at 35mm. By the time it was planed and thicknessed it was 27mm thick. Sanded and a touch of white spirit to reveal the grain and I love it. It’s a shelf for my sons room, he likes the rough bits and the spalted sap wood so jobs a good in. I’ll epoxy fill the gaps with black epoxy then final finish with something hard wearing.

For now the question is how flat it will remain, fingers crossed 🤞🏿!
 

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Three knives, macassar ebony handle at the top, and the bottom two are cocobolo. Just experimenting with knife shapes, blade thickness and taper and especially handle shapes. the two outside knives both have handle issues - not like unusable, just not as lovely as hoped - i'm not sure I'd have identified without making them.

The top two are a stainless blanking steel called AEB-L and the bottom is a carbon steel (80crv2) that would be more like a plainer than O1 tool steel. 20220912_145948.jpg

A bit of metal clean up work to do yet, especially near the handle.

I came up with a novel test for the parer - dropping a banana from dishwasher control height. I think this is may be not a very hard test to pass, though.

 
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