Post a photo of the last thing you made

[D_W]

Didn't "make" it, but from Wednesday afternoon to Yesterday, I stripped part of my upstairs floors with carpet and shellac, scraped them (courtesy of tar-like film left by the carpet padding on the shellac and shellac's distastes for being sanded with a power sander that makes any heat). then sanded, stained and applied a solvent urethane.

We got a fair quote, but the floor refinisher wanted at least $4k, plus requested we store some furniture off site so that he would have a wide working window (add another couple of hundred bucks) and would use only water based products. Plus, he wanted an add on to do the hall. Not sure if he'd have wanted an upcharge if he found out the floor was shellac and not prior easy sanding urethane. In the end, it was easier to just do an end around and do it myself, and after sitting at a desk for my day job for 23 years so far, it was nice to get on the floor and get a bit sore.

Solvent products are becoming VOC restricted here and are really undesirable, but a brilliant woodworker/retired research chemist from another forum - Bill Tindall - helped me understand my options with the solvents available here to get this finish thinned (ended up using xylene) so that it would work much better.

I *bought* a floor sander rather than renting one, but it was about 1/8th of new used on CL and worked a treat the whole time other than needing to scrape. Very sparing on floor thickness, though - I doubt I removed a 32nd, and that appeals to me as the contractors here will usually take off a huge stripe of thickness with drum sanders and then follow with oscillating types. I guess that assures them that they'll get past any issues in the wood, but this floor has been sanded once before and I don't want to be blocked out of redoing it in the future if there is some kind of disaster.

By then, there will probably be a machine that would print a layer back on, though.

 

[Fitzroy]

Oh balls. Been working on the bench build, promise I’ll do an update soon. Anyhow I was cutting a housing joint and no idea how but I managed to mess the marking up, only on one side, and then cut it out in completely the wrong place. Grrrr, annoyed now.
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Fitz.

When you realise how you cocked up earlier! It was the housing in the wrong place that was in the right place, OMG! The bench is asymmetric with a longer overhang on one end, for the tail vice, the back board is as you can see a complete screw up.

At this point I’m ready to dowel and glue, but decided it was too high risk with the multiple mess ups. So I down tools and went for a dook in the sea instead.

Fitz.

Repairing the wrong bit, it was a nice repair though!

The top once glued up should slide over the tenons, happy with the fit.

 

[danst96]

New shop finally! Just moved first bits in, space is back of 4 car garage, roughly 24x18 but plenty overflow space into garage, absolutely huge compared to the 8x12 shop I had in the UK.

Next to do, construct benches and electrics and lighting plus a lick of paint.

 

[fezman]

That RP box on the right looks familiar Dan Hope you are well and enjoying the new life over there.

 

[Sachakins]

Bit of an experiment, using using oak, mahogany and tulip wood, offcuts from chopping board I made.
Started turning without plan, just thought maybe a Square platter or bowl, however ended up with neither but both
About 12" across corners and 2 5/8" high, with a spray lacquer finish, about 6 coats then Yorkshire Grit to finish.

 

[Sachakins]

New shop finally! Just moved first bits in, space is back of 4 car garage, roughly 24x18 but plenty overflow space into garage, absolutely huge compared to the 8x12 shop I had in the UK.

Next to do, construct benches and electrics and lighting plus a lick of paint.
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Lots of denailing needed if reusing what looks like timber from crates

 

[Jester129]

Nice work @Sachakins, looks great!

 

[rob1693]

Simple wood box for my marking out out tools made out of one panel of a pine wardrobe door

 

[D_W]

A pair of stainless knives as a favor to someone who has helped me on other things. This fellow mentioned that he had a paring knife that his wife liked, but it was ground in a way that it wasn't that great (fat edged) and also hopefully soft.

And he also mentioned having a boning knife (something I haven't ever owned) that wears too quickly and is also soft, when he does hobby butchering of things he's hunted.

Since he'd provided advice to help me - in this case - understand the chemistry of the environmentally friendly oil based finish - so that I could modify it to work like an older better finish, I more or less said "just send me a picture of these knives you mention from time to time and let me freehand grind a couple of knives". He likes to add the handles himself, which is good, I don't care too much for making handles and would rather do it on my own.

So while I was waiting for some parts of the floor to mature, I cut, heat treated and freehand ground the parer and boning knife.

The parer is CTS-XHP (identical to or nearly identical to what's known as PM V11 in woodworking), and the boning knife on the right is AEB-L, a very fine grained stainless that will still achieve good hardness. It's the closest thing to carbon steel in a stainless steel - the fineness is finer than a lot of carbon steels, and it's a blanking steel used in disposable razors. It's also very tough (PM V11 can break pretty easily in a knife format, so too can O1, so for something that would flex like a boning knife, AEB-L is a better choice.

I'll spare everyone the details because I also do the mortal sin with these knives - heat treating stainless in the open atmosphere with quick heats in a forge. They tolerate cutting dry lumber, so whatever potential is lost to not following a no oxygen computerized heat treatment schedule, it still leaves these knives well above anything that costs even double the cost of the steel (AEB-L, by the way, is very cheap - cheaper than some carbon steels - XHP is definitely not).

I took no design liberties on the handle shapes, just kept them as original except made them a little less big and fat as the rubber handled (look like victorinox) versions are.

The advantage of freehand grinding is that you can handle the knife a lot, it's not in a fixture, and tell if there is any heat build up. The grind is extremely thin at the edges, especially on the parer, which leads to a knife that slips through things really easily, and that is really quick to resharpen because there's very little secondary bevel to abrade. It is thin enough that it would be unwise to offer commercially - intolerant of things like being used to break ice apart.

not woodworking, but something to do while waiting for the floor refinishing above.

Fingerprints added at no charge.

 

[thetyreman]

That RP box on the right looks familiar Dan Hope you are well and enjoying the new life over there.

+1 can't deny being a bit jealous

 

[Mick p]

The biggest turning I’ve ever done a 15 inch oak worktop platter requested by a neighbour turned on my very old (like me) Tyme cub I’m happy with the results I hope she is

 

[NickVanBeest]

Not a new build, but a modified rebuild...



Needed to chop 28cm off to fit it in the space, but then used that offcut for the shelf on the right

 

[Stigmorgan]

The biggest turning I’ve ever done a 15 inch oak worktop platter requested by a neighbour turned on my very old (like me) Tyme cub I’m happy with the results I hope she is

Thats stunning @Mick p

 

[Dynamite]

I’ve made a Chisel Tray. I did this because I needed one anyway but mainly so I could practice and attempt my first dovetails in about 35 years! I’m going to make a memory box for my daughter and boyfriend so need the practice. It’s mahogany and oak (both scrap) and finished with BLO then wax.

 

[point5clue]

I am the proud owner of a new Axminster AW2305B - I believe it is the law you you have to make a bandsaw box right away so here is mine. 4 x 4by2 glued up in to a block. Finished in home made paste wax.

 

[David with splinters]

Box now finished and just in the nick of time!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The first of four plant stands. Heavy weight, as the moneyplants to go on them are rather large. Made from table legs from Dave Dalby Woodturning (Dave Dalby Woodturning - Home) - the actual pictures aren't showing atm as they're shut for holidays. The legs are upended, a bit of decoration put on the square end and a tenon turned on the other. I'll touch a few blemishes up, undercoat again and my daughter can paint her two as she pleases.

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The link to the legs -
https://www.stairpartsuk.co.uk/shop...ouse-table-legs/p/140883011/category=35429659
These really are stunning.

 

[Dynamite]

Made a Crosscut Sled for my Tablesaw

Rob

 

[redefined_cycles]

So... I had a new door frame fitted (by a builder!) but he decided that a gap of 4cm to the floor would be fine. After much thinking I decided to repurpose another door frame got off my mate.

Lots of cutting and sanding later.

I left a gap to thw bottom of the door of about 5mm. Hopefully a draught stopping system might go there later. Then it came to the flooring and I was a little perplexed as to how I keep the expansion gap. After starting the floorinh at the opposite end of the room it finally came to me. Out came the rough-cut saw and chisel. Rested it on a plank of flooring and underlay (2.15 tog I'll have you know) to get the spacing right.

After a bit of elbow grease and a chisel I had my gap and here's thw end product. I've just gone in with the flooring by a mm or so to ensure a good gap. I also sealed the plank of wood at the chiselled end with some waterproof UPVA sealer.

Result... Yes, I do think so!

 

[pulleyt]

Still messing with Kumiko work. I've been inspired by Taeho's Kumiko Club playlist on YouTube and decided to have a go at a smaller scale panel incorporating several new patterns I hadn't attempted before as well as those I've used in the past. My guilty admission is that I used the project as an excuse to get the smaller Festool Kapex mitre saw as used in the later videos from the playlist above.

It's not perfect but it was a 'proof of concept' project for home consumption from which I have a bank of template components to use going forward.