Post a photo of the last thing you made

[Garno]

Hopefully you would of seen the black box that I 3D Printed the day before yesterday.

There were a lot of things wrong with the box so Yesterday I decided to revamp it.

To cut a long story short I made a right mess of it, I managed to sort the text out and put 2 sleeves inside the box to hold the bushes.
I have no idea how but I managed to miscalculate the size of the sleeves so they could not hold the bushes. Because I had sleeves inside I had to alter the size of the box and then miscalculated the size of the lid. The lid is dovetailed and the box has no internal measurement on my drawing.

Now the lid fits as snug as a bug in a rug, I am so happy with the dovetail.
The sleeves are almost perfect, certainly good enough for the box.

For how new I am into this I am thrilled with the results (albeit it is all very basic)

 

[Stigmorgan]

Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️
One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon

 

[Lorenzl]

Good to see you take pride in your job @Stigmorgan

 

[NickDReed]

Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️
One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon
View attachment 140528

And then I trust you take you shoes off and see how far you can slide in just socks!!

 

[D_W]

two more blades yesterday. A metallurgist in the US has described 80crV2 (0.85 carbon steel with chromium and vanadium added, but a deceptive name because it's a very fine grained still very plain steel) as steel commonly used in woodworking tools.

This steel is nothing like any of the common steels provided (O1, A2, V11, etc) in a lot of the consumer tools, but it is also dirt cheap bought from the right place - about $8 of total cost to make a blade.

The high toughness should mean that it will allow lower tempering and still be tough enough to work - as in when it's left really hard, it still won't be chippy. I'll test that theory in wood.

it doesn't wear as long as something like A2 - how much less, I don't know - 20-25% I'll find that out, too. For an experienced woodworker, avoiding edge damage is more important than nominal abrasion test results.

Letters on the blades denote what the heat treatment parts were, even though they're by eye in a forge, you can do a lot to manipulate grain size and even shrinking carbides or keying steel to trade some toughness for hardness before tempering is factored in.

FAT is Forge heats (which would occur making chisels), A - anneal in vermiculite, T - thermal cycling to shrink grain before hardening.

I have a metallurgical scope and can later compare the carbides in the steel to micrographs and make sure the results don't deviate from "good" samples.

Learned a lesson about buying stamps, too - if you buy a used box of reversed metal stamps, and some of the reversed stamps were missing, they're more valuable than regular stamps and you've got a good chance of having numbers and letters that are not reversed when someone completes the set with more common regular stamps. regular stamps stamp into metal so you can read then normally, and reversed are intended to be used to make another stamp, which will be a mirror image. if the stamp looks "normal" when you look at the end, it's actually a reverse stamp. T, A, O, 8, etc, no big deal, they're the same either way.

the 2 in this case was stuffed in a regular set with a reverse stamp - oops.

 

[clogs]

stigmorgan
I did a lot in a private school.....painting at night mostley.....
but once did the dining room floor.......
after all the scrubbing, the varnish like product was put on with a big mop as in Mc Donalds....
it looked like milk.......
aparently good for a year with 2 coats....
strange stuff......

 

[D_W]

Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️
One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon

I remember as a kid that if you went to the school in summer (for optional sports practices or band or whatever), sometimes you couldn't get down some of the halls because they were waxing the floors. which was confusing because they were some kind of stone composite.

Doubly confusing as a kid was the fact that they took some days to do it because they were "removing the wax" and then "applying the wax".

I'm sure it was more than just wax. Thanks to woodworking, I get what they were doing - nothing stays nice forever and you can't just pile good stuff on top of crap. But as a kid, it sure sounded like they were digging a hole one day so they could fill the hole the next!

 

[Kayen]

I made this a while back - end grain Brown Oak or possibly Tiger Oak (I did try to find out on here, but not conclusive) and Maple.

 

[Stigmorgan]

stigmorgan
I did a lot in a private school.....painting at night mostley.....
but once did the dining room floor.......
after all the scrubbing, the varnish like product was put on with a big mop as in Mc Donalds....
it looked like milk.......
aparently good for a year with 2 coats....
strange stuff......

I use the same mop, the polish does look like milk but I wouldn't recommend drinking it our hall is also used as the lunch room so gets a lot of use so gets scrubbed twice a week and full strip and polish every summer and occasionally a clean and light polish at easter if it needs it.

 

[D_W]

I use the same mop, the polish does look like milk but I wouldn't recommend drinking it our hall is also used as the lunch room so gets a lot of use so gets scrubbed twice a week and full strip and polish every summer and occasionally a clean and light polish at easter if it needs it.

Can you describe it for the dumb? I am now genuinely curious about what's in it - does it crosslink or something, or is it solvent that dissolves the wax but then dries as solid?

With finishes anymore, it's hard to tell what's in anything without getting the SDS.

 

[TRITON]

two more blades yesterday. A metallurgist in the US has described 80crV2 (0.85 carbon steel with chromium and vanadium added, but a deceptive name because it's a very fine grained still very plain steel) as steel commonly used in woodworking tools.

This steel is nothing like any of the common steels provided (O1, A2, V11, etc) in a lot of the consumer tools, but it is also dirt cheap bought from the right place - about $8 of total cost to make a blade.

The high toughness should mean that it will allow lower tempering and still be tough enough to work - as in when it's left really hard, it still won't be chippy. I'll test that theory in wood.

it doesn't wear as long as something like A2 - how much less, I don't know - 20-25% I'll find that out, too. For an experienced woodworker, avoiding edge damage is more important than nominal abrasion test results.

Letters on the blades denote what the heat treatment parts were, even though they're by eye in a forge, you can do a lot to manipulate grain size and even shrinking carbides or keying steel to trade some toughness for hardness before tempering is factored in.

FAT is Forge heats (which would occur making chisels), A - anneal in vermiculite, T - thermal cycling to shrink grain before hardening.

I have a metallurgical scope and can later compare the carbides in the steel to micrographs and make sure the results don't deviate from "good" samples.

Learned a lesson about buying stamps, too - if you buy a used box of reversed metal stamps, and some of the reversed stamps were missing, they're more valuable than regular stamps and you've got a good chance of having numbers and letters that are not reversed when someone completes the set with more common regular stamps. regular stamps stamp into metal so you can read then normally, and reversed are intended to be used to make another stamp, which will be a mirror image. if the stamp looks "normal" when you look at the end, it's actually a reverse stamp. T, A, O, 8, etc, no big deal, they're the same either way.

the 2 in this case was stuffed in a regular set with a reverse stamp - oops.

View attachment 140534

New material for you to make a chisel out of.

Bulk metallic glass.
Harder than hardened steel.

Needless to say your fellow Americans have already made a knife out of it. I expect reuseable bullets next
https://www.techbriefs.com/component/content/article/tb/pub/briefs/manufacturing-prototyping/17444

 

[D_W]

New material for you to make a chisel out of.

Bulk metallic glass.
Harder than hardened steel.

Needless to say your fellow Americans have already made a knife out of it. I expect reuseable bullets next
https://www.techbriefs.com/component/content/article/tb/pub/briefs/manufacturing-prototyping/17444

It looks like those may have some issues with low toughness due to lack of grain boundaries to stop crack formation.

I'm guessing that will be solved at some point.

There's no universal number that I can think of but steels about half as tough as O1 have limited application (O1 is pretty low toughness for some odd reasons, but we don't really challenge toughness in woodworking and the offshoot of low toughness is that the burr doesn't try to hang on forever, so that's not so bad).

I think I've seen mention of non-crystalline materials in knives or as a coating for knives. Toughness (vs. strength) is very important for knives that are used improperly - which is pretty much everything used in an average kitchen.

 

[Stigmorgan]

Can you describe it for the dumb? I am now genuinely curious about what's in it - does it crosslink or something, or is it solvent that dissolves the wax but then dries as solid?

With finishes anymore, it's hard to tell what's in anything without getting the SDS.

Not 100% sure, comes in a 5ltr bottle

This is where we get it from
https://hbsgroup.net/blueoceanr-high-solids-floor-polish-5l-s/

 

[Gant]

This thread has taken me right back to my childhood in the 1960s. My grandad was a school caretaker in Scarborough and took a similar pride in the hall floor. As I write this I can smell the newly polished wooden floor.

 

[D_W]

Not 100% sure, comes in a 5ltr bottle
View attachment 140566View attachment 140567

This is where we get it from
https://hbsgroup.net/blueoceanr-high-solids-floor-polish-5l-s/

The SDS is a little limited and I'm not a chemist, but it looks like at least part of it is evaporative alcohol.

Looking at the array of things offered here doesn't provide much clarity - some are a finish/wax mix and others are literally the same thing as a crosslinked water-based spray finish. Kind of interesting how things are changing. I'm about to refinish my floors and looking for the less-easy-to-find-now solvent based floor stuff. I had done two small sections in the past, one with the traditional solvent based stuff, and another with water based. The solvent based floor looks much better, and may actually be softer but shows scratches less.

the WB stuff worked fine, though. It just isn't an equal to the solvent stuff yet, and the solvent is being knocked back to lower VOC so i expect that it will not flow out as well or dry as hard, one or the other.

the crosslinked WB finishes I've sprayed (the floor stuff I used isn't crosslinked...I'm convinced the crosslink additive is quite unhealthy) are very hard, though, and I accidentally applied WB floor finish over oil stain by not reading the cans - 8 years later, still no sign of poor adhesion - I think they are making fast improvements to eliminate adhesion issues that plagued early WB finishes to the point that mine adhered to still slightly wet oil stain.

At any rate, This whole topic is interesting - sooner or later, we'll be left only with the WB stuff and i was not able to find any reasonable floor contractor who would use oil based finish, because the WB floor finishes here can now be sanded between coats within two hours. It's easier for the floor guys to apply and they'll gladly tell customers there's no difference in how they look or wear until you press them on it.

So I just bought a floor sander instead and will resell it when done. If you can't beat 'em, play a different game.

 

[NickVanBeest]

Didn't "make" anything, but took everything apart and into storage... moving next week, and the shop/wood will have to wait

 

[Jameshow]

Didn't "make" anything, but took everything apart and into storage... moving next week, and the shop/wood will have to wait

View attachment 140671

Your not moving to Devon too?!!

 

[NickVanBeest]

Your not moving to Devon too?!!

Nope, Dorset for me

 

[cgarry]

I finally finished and fitted my shoe rack.

Made from 9mm Birch Ply edged with Walnut and mounted to the wall with French Cleats.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[Fitzroy]

I finally finished and fitted my shoe rack.

Made from 9mm Birch Ply edged with Walnut and mounted to the wall with French Cleats.

View attachment 140689View attachment 140690

Cheers,
Chris

But surely you family, especially children, will leave their shoes on the floor right next to it just to annoy you.

Fitz.