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My first box without dovetails! Solid maple and flamed sycamore.
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No pics but today I made a friend, a fellow member invited me over to get some pointers on the lathe, a good time was had, my skill level has gone from 0 to at least a 1, we spent more time chatting and admiring the grain pattern in the piece of cherry I took with me than we did actually turning but I look forward to pics of the finished product.
 
So today I maden2 more jigsaw puzzles 😁, just playing around practicing on the lathe with a very very dry piece of beech, thought I'd try a simple little flower pot, first one I got distracted and got a catch, the 2nd one had a little knot in it that decided it didn't want to be cut and caused a blow out, as I've said I was only practicing so not overly disappointed especially as I had the walls on both pieces pretty even.
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I have my new friend to thank for reshaping and sharpening my bowl gouge on Thursday, now there's no horrid point on the wings to keep catching I'm finding it much easier to control the cuts.
 
For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>

I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
But, as above, I don't know that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.
 
For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>

I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
But, as above, I don't know that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.

+1 on what you have said although I am no turner either so if this is completely the wrong way to do it at least you are not alone lol, I started to learn a couple of years ago but didn't really keep at it for a couple of reasons, first one of my legs doesn't work very well so shifting weight is difficult & second I have arthritis in my hands & found that I couldn't work for very long.
 
Today i 'made' a stall at an table sale for the RNLI

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Note the coat rack with shelves and key hook display at the back. The table top and the vertical coffee table top are both sequoia, the cutting blocks are oak. The tensegrity floating table is what I put my Square card reader on, and is just to get people talking (but I'd sell it if someone wanted it!). The other two coffee tables are walnut and oak, the charcuterie boards to the left, 2 are beech and 1 is ash. The tea light holders are from off-cuts of oak.
4 hours including set up and take down. No more than 20 browsers all day and 1 sale (a £35 cutting board!)
 
I've been making my first commission box, it is for a vintage neumann M49 microphone so should fit perfectly, it's going to be sent to the USA next week, it features brusso jb101 stop hinges, and is lined with velvet using custards method in this thread: How to Line Boxes & Drawers

the leather is all real and the catches are from prokraft, it's loosely based on the original box from the 1950s, the wood is pine to keep the weight down and it was all hand cut dovetails.
 

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For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>

I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
But, as above, I don't know that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.
Pots and bowls are usually shaped and finished on the outside then turned around and hollowed out, the only difference between that and my work is that I don't have a chuck so do it all on a faceplate from a single orientation.
 
Lovely, garno - reminds me of a letter opener that my prothonotary grandfather had. Back then, getting and opening correspondence was a big thing, and the tools that you used weren't just throwaway junk - even for letter opening.
 

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