Post a photo of the last thing you made

[Turnr77]

I'm sure these have been featured here before but here's my Rudolph the reindeer family

1st Scroll saw version in oak 2.5 inches tall eyes and nose painted on

2nd Band saw version in laminated birch ply offcuts 7.5 inches nose turned from dowel and painted, eyes are bead headed pins

3rd double sized ply version 14 inches, eyes and nose turned from dowel and painted

Last all 3 with cat for scale

 

[AES]

Very nice. Looks like the cat is ready to eat the small - plus perhaps the middle - one/s!

 

[MikeG.]

Three stop-chamfered oak panels:

 

[Buckeye]

Bathroom cabinet using some scrap oak veneered and solid oak face frame and door panel bookmatched. My question is shoud I add some sort of quarter round bead at the bottom to help balance it. I think I made the bottom frame too big?

 

[MikeG.]

That's really nice, Buckeye. A proper piece of furniture. 'twere it me I might be tempted to plant a half or 3/4 round beaded strip around the bottom edge......but it's no big deal. It's fine as it is.

 

[custard]

Three stop-chamfered oak panels

Very nice work, stop chamfers just add so much visual interest to a piece.

 

[custard]

Bathroom cabinet using some scrap oak veneered and solid oak face frame and door panel bookmatched. My question is shoud I add some sort of quarter round bead at the bottom to help balance it. I think I made the bottom frame too big?

Personally I don't think you made the bottom rail too big. It's traditional in cabinetry and in picture framing for the bottom rail to be slightly thicker than the side and the top rails (which are normally all of the same cross section). A bit of extra weight at the bottom just looks right to my eye.

You've done a really clean job, the hinges are exactly where they should be , the gapping all around the sides looks even, the grain on the stiles and rails is nice and straight (both for stability and to stop them distracting from the book matched panel), the beading's very tidy, the hardware is appropriate, the pediment is nice and bold, I could go on but you get the picture! Smashing job, exactly what many on this forum should be aspiring towards.

=D>

 

[AndyT]

Custard has said everything I would have said! Very nice indeed.

 

[marcros]

Personally I don't think you made the bottom rail too big. It's traditional in cabinetry and in picture framing for the bottom rail to be slightly thicker than the side and the top rails (which are normally all of the same cross section). A bit of extra weight at the bottom just looks right to my eye.
=D>

Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?

 

[custard]

[Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?

Excellent question!

With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees. You can't get this at most modern framers because they're geared up with a Morso or something similar and so are locked into 45 degree cuts. But if you look at even older framers tools and devices, like the cast iron"shute" that Stanley made for their shooting plane, you see adjustable mitres were quite common. Modern picture framers put more visual weight at the bottom by having a wider matte border at the bottom, but look at first quality Victorian and Edwardian certification frames, or Arts & Crafts frames, and you'll see the bottom member is a little thicker.

I use this device on my panel saw to bang out these eccentric mitres automatically, but there is a formula to calculate the angle.

 

[marcros]

thank you. would you do a mirror frame similarly?

 

[custard]

Sometimes, yes. Depends on how much I'm getting paid!

 

[Marineboy]

Buckeye, that is beautiful work. What finish did you use? It sets off the oak perfectly.

 

[Buckeye]

Buckeye, that is beautiful work. What finish did you use? It sets off the oak perfectly.

Thanks! Couple of thin coat of osmo polyx

 

[galleywood]

Inspired by Pete Maddex's design of hinges on his Peel lid box. I made this box for the stocking filler pruning knife that I gave my wife this Christmas.

 

[AES]

Ahhh, very nice too. That must have been worth a few brownie points!

 

[Fitzroy]

Shooting board, made from worktop offcut for the base with routered plane run and fence rebate. Sycamore block for the fence, two small wedges hold it tight to the front of the rebate, keeping it all square. Old woodie plane repurposed as a shooting plane, side was brought perpendicular to the base and blade sharpened straight across with no radius. All finished with some briwax to keep it sliding smoothly.

These things always take me longer than they should. First had to remember how to use the router handheld with a fence, then had to fix the table saw sled as something had sheered. Finally when truing up the front edge of the fence rebate I had a brain fart and planed it furthur away from 90degs three times before I realised what I was doing.

Works lovely though and I edge jointed a couple of boards and glued them up for fun, another first in my woodworking journey.

Fitz.

 

[MusicMan]

Nice job and good use of offcuts. You might want to reposition the handle of the woodie at 45 degrees to make it more comfortable to use?

 

[Suffolkboy]

A repro. of a plane found at grave 702 at Bajuwarenstraße, Straubing, Bavaria, Germany, dating from the late 6th to early 7th century AD. The original was made of antler but I have made mine of yew.

That's really nice.

Really interesting too

Is there a link to a picture of the original made with Antler? What sort of dimensions is it?

 

[Fitzroy]

Not very interesting but having finished the shooting board I wanted to have a crack at edge jointing something. A couple of offcuts and I’m flabbergasted at the accuracy you can achieve using a shooting board.

Life’s all about learning and I enjoyed that!

Fitz