Plywood laminated work bench

[Escudo]

I have been reading the excellent book Workbenches: From Design and Theory to Construction and Use By Christopher Schwarz.

The book details various types of bench and provides construction guidance and work holding options for some fabulous looking benches.

The Roubo is my current favourite which incorporates a leg vice, sliding deadman and wagon tail vice. Everything a fella could want.

The book includes an analysis of the different types of timber used to construct benches and the various options which got me thinking about the laminated plywood bench here;

http://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/011181054.pdf

What's the verdict on laminated plywood as an inexpensive means and method to construct the base of a bench? It would certainly be strong and heavy.

I assume it would be considerably cheaper than a timber frame, leaving resources available to invest in a Beech or Ash top, perhaps with a board core of some sort?

Interested in views on this subject.

Cheers, Tony.

 

[wizer]

Well my workbench is built cabinet construction with man-made board top and I can't see why anyone would spend money on expensive hardwood to build a workbench. Man-made boards are cheap, stable and durable. Did you see the Glue-Bo that Megan Fitzpatrick from PWW built?

 

[OPJ]

I can't see a lot wrong with the plywood option Tony, other than the fact you'll need plenty of glue! 'Laminating' the mortise and tenons joints could save you a lot of work as well.

If you are thinking of beech for the top, I'd strongly advise you to consider the European 'steamed' species. I made mine out of air-dried English beech last summer and the cracks haven't stopped. Steamed beech is supposed to be drier and more stable (plus, it is slightly cheaper, if a little pink).

Maple would be another good choice.

 

[wizer]

I don't get why Beech is so popular for workbenches? On paper it's pretty unsuitable for a durable, stable surface.

 

[OPJ]

Me neither, to be honest. I can only guess it's because it's cheap, hard and generally very straight-grained. We don't get much maple (if any?) growing this side of the pond either. It is the "traditional" timber of choice. Perhaps there was less variety many, many years ago?

We certainly do have better options available to us, today.

 

[Eric The Viking]

So is mine.

It's 25 years old this year and still going. It's got a 1" chipboard base to the surface, with 1/2" ply on top (might even be 3/8 - I can't remember now). The worktop is stiffened with secondhand 3x2 red cedar beams longitudinally, and has a hardwood front working face and side cappings, and a 14" quick release vice.

It's on a frame of 3x2s in recycled red cedar, and it's solid as a rock. It is extremely heavy though, so much so that I cut holes in the 3x2s under the worktop to reduce the weight a bit.

I kid myself the top surface is replaceable, but TBH it would be really hard work to do it, and you'd probably have to redo the edge cappings.

I think the important things are flatness, setting it at just the right working height for you, recessing the collets for the holdfasts (so you don't catch edge tools on them easily), good edges (and the front) for G-clamps, overall squareness and a nice vice. Mine is built left-handed too (vice on the right), which is great for me.

My only regrets are that my vice isn't quite square to the bench edge (don't ask!), and that I used an odd hardwood (Nemesu?) instead of Beech for the front - for the splinters it's given me down the years, I should have spent the money!

Regarding the top, the plywood does just fine.

HTH

 

[Jake]

The base of mine is made of ply torsion boxes, oh sorry box beams, it was very loosely based on this I think. http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/pro ... bench.aspx

Not pretty but brutally effective. Not sure how compatible it would be with a Roubo bench.

 

[Mreagleeyes]

This is the one I am making once I find some nice Ply. He made it from 3 sheets and I'm looking to turn the legs through 90 Degrees and incorporate the shelves into the build and make it a lot stronger. I'll also loose the Vise and get a heavy work top on it.
A second bench, we all need one.

 

[TheTiddles]

Mine is made from iroko, ya bo sucks to be you. :lol:

Aidan

 

[Mreagleeyes]

Mine is made from iroko, ya bo sucks to be you. :lol:

Aidan

What?.

 

[Shultzy]

And so is mine, I dinged it yesterday flags a half mast. Still after the first ding the rest make it look "aged" :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

I have a beech bench with a 75mm frame and top all the way across (so no thinner bits in the middle). The frame is excellent but if I were to do it again I'd definitely use something else for the top - Rob

 

[GCR]

The bench in my old house has a pine frame and two layers of blockboard (purchased as seconds) for the top. Built 30 years ago it did have a beech top but movement rendered it untrue. The blockboard has worked well for 20 years. In my new house my bench also has a pine frame and the top is two layers of MDF, the upper layer I regard as sacrificial. I used a lot of MDF for work benches at work and they held up well.

Bob

 

[Russ]

Mine is made from iroko, ya bo sucks to be you. :lol:

Aidan

Has someone been drinking? :shock:

 

[Escudo]

I also have a mdf top on my bench and it has provided years of trusty service, with a few more to come.

It seems that a plywood/mdf type bench could be the answer as there does not appear to be much against this idea.

Watch this space :wink: (It may take sometime mind you)

Tony.

 

[TheTiddles]

Mine is made from iroko, ya bo sucks to be you. :lol:

Aidan

Has someone been drinking? :shock:

Yep, and proud.

 

[GraemeD]

I have made a couple of benches with an MDF top, and so far (ten years down the line) they have proved to be fine. I was worried they may drop in the middle over time, but so far no sign of that.

I used two layers of 15mm MDF glued together. then I topped it with a skin of oil tempered hardboard, fixed with tacky glue so it can be removed. I see that as the sacrificial layer....it's tough and hard wearing, but cheap to replace. The only arguable downside I see is that it is very dark coloured....a lighter, more "wood coloured" top may make it less easy to lose stuff under the shavings! But I'd certainly recommend this approach for an easy and durable bench top.

Graeme

 

[woodbloke]

I.

I used two layers of 15mm MDF glued together. then I topped it with a skin of oil tempered hardboard, fixed with tacky glue so it can be removed. I see that as the sacrificial layer....it's tough and hard wearing, but cheap to replace.

Graeme

I've used a lot of oil-tempered hardboard in the construction of my 'shop and in my view it's vastly underrated. You're spot on in saying that it's tough and hardwearing...it's not that much more expensive than standard which is a bit fluffy and wooly by comparison - Rob

 

[Bean]

I was given an Oak Table but as it had been left outside the top had gone so i used the frame with some stiffners and laminated 4 layers of 3/4 ply for the top. Rock solid, stable and used for everything every day.

Being very sad on the day i put it in the workshop I levelled the top in both directions and ensured that it was all flat. 5 yrs later it still is.

I just do not see the point in flattening a bench top each year, I would rather just use it

 

[TheTiddles]

Keep in mind that you might well spend more time looking at your workbench then you do at your dining table, shouldn't it be an object of beauty that you really enjoy?

Aidan