Plywood box construction

[Martin_S]

I want to knock up 4 plywood boxes to hold the grandkids Christmas presents - logic being that they will be a bit different from all the rest wrapped in paper and they will have a small storage box each after the event to keep.

For the presents I have, the boxes are going to be 18"x10"x8" (LWD) and I am going to be using 12mm birch faced ply as I have a couple of sheets in the garage.

I don't want to spend an age on them but conversely, I don't want to hear that they fell apart or broke in 6 months time so my question is how should I construct them?

I will rout rebates for the 9mm base panels, no decision yet on the tops and for the main joins on the sides I have a range of options: simple pocket hole, mitre with mitre keys, rabbeted joins or router cut dovetails or fingers. (As you can guess I am not a fan of handtools when I can use machines and have a table saw, band saw, router, etc).

The boxes will be painted in each grandkids favourite colour, so the aesthetics of how it is constructed will be less important to the recipient than it would be to you or I.

How would you do it and why?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Zeddedhed]

Routing the dovetails on ply will likely result in a mess of tearout.

If they're going to be painted I think I'd just butt joint, glue and pin/screw. Quick bit of filler, give 'em a good sanding and then paint. They'll be strong enough to withstand the young'uns and they'll be quick to make.

 

[RobinBHM]

I would rebate them, say 7mm to leave a 5mm overlap to be pinned and glued.

If you rout or spindle the rebate for the front and backs in long lengths -cut cross grain then this will make prevent any end dips and break out at ends, then strip up.

Or butt joint as Zeddedhed suggested would work fine

 

[Martin_S]

Thanks both - was thinking butt or rebate and inclined to rebate.
Robin, I was planning to cut the rebates with the table saw rather than the router table to avoid the breakout issue - does that make sense or would you still rout?

 

[Martin_S]

Afterthought - I have a biscuit jointer too, but am thinking pinned and glued rebates are preferable to pinned and glued butts with biscuits. Anyone disagree?

 

[Graham Orm]

I want to knock up 4 plywood boxes to hold the grandkids Christmas presents - logic being that they will be a bit different from all the rest wrapped in paper and they will have a small storage box each after the event to keep.

For the presents I have, the boxes are going to be 18"x10"x8" (LWD) and I am going to be using 12mm birch faced ply as I have a couple of sheets in the garage.

I don't want to spend an age on them but conversely, I don't want to hear that they fell apart or broke in 6 months time so my question is how should I construct them?

I will rout rebates for the 9mm base panels, no decision yet on the tops and for the main joins on the sides I have a range of options: simple pocket hole, mitre with mitre keys, rabbeted joins or router cut dovetails or fingers. (As you can guess I am not a fan of handtools when I can use machines and have a table saw, band saw, router, etc).

The boxes will be painted in each grandkids favourite colour, so the aesthetics of how it is constructed will be less important to the recipient than it would be to you or I.

How would you do it and why?

Thanks in advance!

As it's only 12mm Ply it restricts what you can do with joints. DT's will make a mess and 12mm is too thin for pocket holes and mitres in my opinion. I'd go with a 4mm rebate, some good gap filling glue and long thin screws. Also maybe glue and pin a piece of quadrant bead up the inside of each corner just to give it a bit more of a chance. Then as ZH said spend some time with filler and paint.
Again I'd say biscuits are no good in 12mm ply.

This is 5 minute stuff, they also do a 30 minute product. Superb adhesive perfect for your job. It expands and will fill all the voids in the ply ends. http://www.macbuildingproducts.com/prod ... cts_id=127 PS on their website if you type glue into the search box it brings up nails...hilarious

 

[mseries]

Box (finger) joints for boxes, cut with your table saw.

 

[Fishandchips]

Have a look at this video, a bit different and easy to make.

http://youtu.be/xed1Ij_25z8

 

[RobinBHM]

Table saw would work fine, Id probably use feather board so the ply sits snug against the fence. You could still make in multiple strips if it makes it easier to push through the saw.

The rebate actually make assembly easier.

 

[Racers]

I made some big draws with biscuits in 12mm Birch ply they are still in one piece.
So I would use biscuits and glue.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

Unless the boxes ARE the presents, butt joints and PVA will be plenty, maybe with a few pins to hold them together while the glue sets. I've made boxes like this for the workshop in 6mm ply and they've been fine.

 

[Alder]

This idea was seen in a recent Fine Woodworking publication essentialy for fixing screws into end grain. Drill a hole so dowel might be inserted and the fixing could be woodscrews. The idea is not dissimilar to the principal of using bed bolts. With 12mm ply the drilling would have to be very precise.
Russell.

 

[Paul Dye]

I have made a few using a lock mitre bit in my router, once set up you can knock them out quickly and they have plenty of area for the glue

 

[scholar]

Definitely the best way to make plywood boxes IMO is box joints and definitely the best way to make box joints IMO is the woodgears box joint jig http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html

Another very good method is on the Woodrat.

However neither of these are very good suggestions starting from scratch between now and Christmas ....

I would go with rebates for sure and nail them - a nail gun is made for this job, alternatively I would clamp and drill small pilot holes for the nails as this will deter it from moving as you nail.

For the top I would do a pencil box style sliding top. To do this, I would glue a strip of hard wood on the top edge of the 4 plywood sides, then cut a slot for the top to slide in, cut away the front bit so the top can slide over and glue on a suitable matching strip on the front edge of the top (if you have 9mm plywood for the top that would be fine, although 6mm would be good enough.

Sounds a nice project, but next year make the box joint jig...

Cheers

 

[Martin_S]

First - thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions.

I really enjoy working with wood because it is so creative - even a simple thing like a box of specified size and materials and I have a dozen or so viable options, none is right or wrong and that is the way with every project.

I find UKWorkshop equally enjoyable for exactly the same reason- in just 48 hours so many useful ideas, not just for this project but definitely for some of those yet to get started.

So thanks once again.

Couple of questions:
- Why would you make box / finger joints on a table saw if you had a suitable router jig, wouldn't that be much quicker and easier?
- I love the lock mitre bit, though looking at YouTube, seems you need a set-up jig if you are to avoid hours of fiddling, can you get them in the UK?
- And the corner blocks in Fish&Chips video are great, will definitely use on something else, but need to remove my guard and riving knife to do that, which on my old Axminster is a major job.

Thanks All.

 

[Graham Orm]

First - thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions.

I really enjoy working with wood because it is so creative - even a simple thing like a box of specified size and materials and I have a dozen or so viable options, none is right or wrong and that is the way with every project.

I find UKWorkshop equally enjoyable for exactly the same reason- in just 48 hours so many useful ideas, not just for this project but definitely for some of those yet to get started.

So thanks once again.

Couple of questions:
- Why would you make box / finger joints on a table saw if you had a suitable router jig, wouldn't that be much quicker and easier?
- I love the lock mitre bit, though looking at YouTube, seems you need a set-up jig if you are to avoid hours of fiddling, can you get them in the UK?
- And the corner blocks in Fish&Chips video are great, will definitely use on something else, but need to remove my guard and riving knife to do that, which on my old Axminster is a major job.

Thanks All.

The lock mitre bits are excellent I've got 2 different sizes. Take note when you buy that the bit will suit the thickness of stock that you plan to use it on. They do take 10 mins or so to set up but once done you're up and running. You can then make your own set up block, and next time it's easy peasy. Highly recommended.

I can't recall where I got mine from, probably Wealdens, they seem to vary a lot in price. These are about as cheap as you will find and as good as any out there I reckon. http://www.trenddirectuk.com/c189x1-4tc.html

 

[mseries]

- Why would you make box / finger joints on a table saw if you had a suitable router jig, wouldn't that be much quicker and easier?

I suggested a table saw as imo it'll be easier to minimise tear out in you ply, but if your jig can do it well, then why not

 

[Jacob]

Plain butt or rebate plus glue and pins. Pre-drill for pins and put them just through their holes before you join the sides so they help locate them before you nail them up tight
I wouldn't slot or rebate for the bottom it'd be very weak. I'd clap it straight on either flush finish or projecting and finished with a half round or something. Ditto the top. Make it as a six sided closed box and slice off the top afterwards.

 

[Knot Competent]

Depending on how young your grandkids are, I'd fit the boxes with wheels and a rope handle, they'd enjoy that as much as the presents inside!

 

[brianhabby]

Have a look at this video, a bit different and easy to make.

http://youtu.be/xed1Ij_25z8

You can always count of Matthias to come up with innovative solutions

Some good suggestions in this thread, it shows there are often many ways to skin a cat. I have used box joints in the past on plywood boxes and also on chipboard boxes too, there's no doubt in my mind that they are probably the strongest joint for building a plywood box.

Is the strongest possible joint needed though? I doubt it and I like the idea of simple butt joints and a bit of quadrant glued into the inside corner. This will add a lot of strength and look good.

regards

Brian