1st post. Mentioning plywood too so probably off to a bad start??
Anyhow, I'm soon to fit out our campervan. At the moment it's an empty box, so dinette, bunk beds, kitchen cupboard etc.
Marine, or maybe Vohringer to save weight, ply to minimise temperature and moisture distortion issues my lack of knowledge hopes.
If I make the kitchen three door cupboard out of 10mm, and if I cut the door apertures to for instance 500mm wide by 800mm tall then I aim to cut the doors maybe 30mm bigger both ways to overlap the gap and cover any movement or distortion. I could then cut out the middle of the doors and fill in (rear mounted) maybe 5mm ply to again save weight. So the door will be a kind of window frame, and proud of the cupboard surface. Rounded corners perhaps.
To give a bit of contrast I would like to rout all around the door edges with an approx 10mm radius quarter circle, exposing the ply layer colours. Maybe the edge of the cupboard door cut out too to match.
I currently have a cheapish jigsaw and a knackered circular saw, and I have made some cupboards previously that my Mum would be proud of. Others maybe not so much
Future projects include a double bed on stilts with a dinette under, and a 5m radius quarter circle sofa both for the house. Maybe new shed roof joists too.
I've never used a router before.
If I cut the door apertures and doors with a jigsaw and then rout, can I use the router cut to straighten out the jigsaw wiggle, or does it have to follow what's there? I know a plunge saw will produce a lovely line, but is that a waste of cash if I then rout that cut?
Will any router do? Do I need a super dooper table/jig thing for it?
If I did buy a plunge saw, will it do everything a circular saw did or would cutting particle board sheets for instance sensibly still be a circular saw job?
Any other suggestions or comments welcomed
Jason
Anyhow, I'm soon to fit out our campervan. At the moment it's an empty box, so dinette, bunk beds, kitchen cupboard etc.
Marine, or maybe Vohringer to save weight, ply to minimise temperature and moisture distortion issues my lack of knowledge hopes.
If I make the kitchen three door cupboard out of 10mm, and if I cut the door apertures to for instance 500mm wide by 800mm tall then I aim to cut the doors maybe 30mm bigger both ways to overlap the gap and cover any movement or distortion. I could then cut out the middle of the doors and fill in (rear mounted) maybe 5mm ply to again save weight. So the door will be a kind of window frame, and proud of the cupboard surface. Rounded corners perhaps.
To give a bit of contrast I would like to rout all around the door edges with an approx 10mm radius quarter circle, exposing the ply layer colours. Maybe the edge of the cupboard door cut out too to match.
I currently have a cheapish jigsaw and a knackered circular saw, and I have made some cupboards previously that my Mum would be proud of. Others maybe not so much
Future projects include a double bed on stilts with a dinette under, and a 5m radius quarter circle sofa both for the house. Maybe new shed roof joists too.
I've never used a router before.
If I cut the door apertures and doors with a jigsaw and then rout, can I use the router cut to straighten out the jigsaw wiggle, or does it have to follow what's there? I know a plunge saw will produce a lovely line, but is that a waste of cash if I then rout that cut?
Will any router do? Do I need a super dooper table/jig thing for it?
If I did buy a plunge saw, will it do everything a circular saw did or would cutting particle board sheets for instance sensibly still be a circular saw job?
Any other suggestions or comments welcomed
Jason