I can’t work out what brand these are (ie are they any good), or indeed how to release them. They are used extensively in my new house and I need to make some alterations. Any advice or help would be really appreciate.
Plumbing Push fit fittings help
- Thread starter deema
- Start date
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flying haggis
Established Member
Hep 2o fittings
disconnecting tool here
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-demounting-tool-set-4-pcs/1208j
disconnecting tool here
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-demounting-tool-set-4-pcs/1208j
They are one of the better plastic push fit connection systems but for me they are a fast fit method used to cut cost. If you really want to use push fittings then the much better system is the Tectite fittings from Peggler, for me it is still mostly soldered joints.
If you dismantle those joints it might pay to fit new O rings to be safe. guide here
https://www.mytub.co.uk/product_images/Hep2o_Installation.pdf
If you dismantle those joints it might pay to fit new O rings to be safe. guide here
https://www.mytub.co.uk/product_images/Hep2o_Installation.pdf
That one works better in restricted spaces. The other one they sell (Hep Key plus) is more comfortable to use.
Do you know of any guide to how this might be done? Do you have a link to suitable O-rings? Please could you confirm you have viewed the cross-section of the fitting on page 5 in the document to which you have linked before making that observation.
I'm also a big fan of Pegler's original more expensive range of tectite "classic" fittings. The brass ones. Pegler's cheaper "tectite sprint" range of push fittings that are formed from copper are horrid. I've had multiple failures of those. They went back and I'll never buy them again.
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Oh my goodness, another rabbit hole! It’s interesting to start to look at the various technical data. The Heo2O claim a life for both their pipe and fittings of 50 years, the Pegler system 25 years. BUT, the Peglet system has a wider temperature range.
It seems that you need to use the same brand of plastic pipe as the fitting, so presumably you could use copper pipe to interface between two system, if changing brands.
Looking at a schematic of each, it appears to me that the main failure mechanism would be the O ring, which is Independant to the actual carrier body.
It seems that you need to use the same brand of plastic pipe as the fitting, so presumably you could use copper pipe to interface between two system, if changing brands.
Looking at a schematic of each, it appears to me that the main failure mechanism would be the O ring, which is Independant to the actual carrier body.
Plastic is good, but my late 70's place was piped in copper. When I tried plastic for something, I was struck by how much it expands. You need to design pipe runs accordingly.
So I just stick to copper pipe for maintenance and alterations but as the tectites work so well and so easily with copper, I tolerate their cost for the convenience and don't bother soldering unless unless I need to make a joint somewhere where their extra bulk won't fit in, or where an "assembly" of pipework can be prepared and soldered up on the bench and then fitted in one piece.
So I just stick to copper pipe for maintenance and alterations but as the tectites work so well and so easily with copper, I tolerate their cost for the convenience and don't bother soldering unless unless I need to make a joint somewhere where their extra bulk won't fit in, or where an "assembly" of pipework can be prepared and soldered up on the bench and then fitted in one piece.
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Another reason why plastic pipe is popular is that you do not have to use a pipe bender which was the norm some years ago, once mastered it can reduce the number of joints because you can make pipe forms up that go round multiple bends / directions from one piece of pipe. I restrict myself to no more than three max but I knew guys who could make a length of copper fit into some really awkward places.
Everything today seems to be aimed at cost, speed and de skilling .
If you want to see how copper is bent then this is a good read.
Everything today seems to be aimed at cost, speed and de skilling .
If you want to see how copper is bent then this is a good read.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I told in another thread how my daughter's partner's job was held up because of plastic push fittings leaking under a solid floor.
I was mentioned this to an experienced commercial plumbing and heating engineer. His comment - it's all junk, we don't use it.
I was mentioned this to an experienced commercial plumbing and heating engineer. His comment - it's all junk, we don't use it.
HOJ
Established Member
@deema seems strange why they used a push fit connector to join 2 bits of copper pipe! I would have sweated a coupler on, having said that some sites are no flame now.
I don't do much plumbing anymore, but got a call to look at fitting a shower valve the "plumber" that was supposed to do it bailed out, and I should have said noooo:
I'm convinced a lot of the new "plumbers" can't use a pipe bender!!
I don't do much plumbing anymore, but got a call to look at fitting a shower valve the "plumber" that was supposed to do it bailed out, and I should have said noooo:
I'm convinced a lot of the new "plumbers" can't use a pipe bender!!
Ensure if fitting any plastic pipe with these that you put a support insert in the pipe ends, if you don’t you are asking for pain and leaks.
Regards,
Dave
Only if you're using plastic pipe though, you don't need inserts on copper. The hep2o fittings are great, I've used them a lot in work and on my own houses and the only ones I've had fail are ones that froze.
Stevekane
Established Member
Lots of plumbers use Polypipe, they are the grey fipe and fittings, I seem stuck on Speedfit, its the brand I started with and has been reliable, the biggest issue is the possibility of forgetting the insert,,very easily done, I now count them out with the fittings,,and hope I have none left over! The worst thing I recently found was a speedfit pipe and elbow fitted through a hole in a stud wall where the pipe was a bit short and the release ring on the fitting was up against the stud,,I really didnt like that and this was done by a professional plumber.
My tip with all this plastic pipe is if its going to be hidden under floors etc then use the big coiled stuff, but if its ever going to be seen then do yourself a favour and buy lengths,,,its marginally neater and less of a fight, and if its on show you cannot beat copper.
Oh, and lastly don't forget the insert!
Steve.
My tip with all this plastic pipe is if its going to be hidden under floors etc then use the big coiled stuff, but if its ever going to be seen then do yourself a favour and buy lengths,,,its marginally neater and less of a fight, and if its on show you cannot beat copper.
Oh, and lastly don't forget the insert!
Steve.
@HOJ that looks like a nice job, pipes laid out nice and pocket hole screws to fix the shower mixer support.
The one advantage I find is that if fitting a stud wall yourself then you can plan ahead a drill the noggins and fit pipes / conduits at the same time. For electrical I still do not use dry lining boxes but put in a noggin and then use a backbox.
The one advantage I find is that if fitting a stud wall yourself then you can plan ahead a drill the noggins and fit pipes / conduits at the same time. For electrical I still do not use dry lining boxes but put in a noggin and then use a backbox.
You'll do your backboxes properly I have no doubt, but my builders' electrician fixed their backboxes with a single screw in the middle and were non too tidy about cutting the plasterboard. I'm a convert to dry lining boxes now as they give a really clean finish with no raw plasterboard edge and if you take your time, they can be cut in with a tight fit that makes a rock solid job
As said a very nice job however I would be putting steel plates across the cutouts in the vertical noggins to avoid screws or nails being able to pierce the pipes! I have found most plaster boarding trades a bit too enthusiastic with the nail/screw gun!!
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I wonder if some sparkies fit back boxes so the socket can be adjusted from dropping on one side to dropping even further on same side out of some sort of devilment.
It goes wrong when a socket gets a lot of regular use, they will loosen and unless someone notices and tightens them up they just get worse as the plasterboard wears. As to the finish, again we are back to speed because it is quick to fit a drywall box and get a decent job whereas a nogin and backbox takes more time and skill but you end up with a decent finish if you don't rush it.
Another problem is that a lot of walls are now very thin, cannot get a deep 47mm box in which allows space for the wiring to neatly fold back.
Depends who is using the drill, someone who has experience would notice that they have hit metal and stop but get a heavy handed builder who is determined to drill that hole and nothing except gauge plate is going to deter him.
I keep drawings of all my stud walls with datums and know exactly what is hidden behind and it can make life so easy and save a lot of money.
HOJ
Established Member
I trust the boarder in this case to do this properly, its his house!, I did a sips build last year & had to fit a suspended WC, frame into a stud wall, all boarded, plastered and tiled, plumber filled cistern and found a leak, the boarders had screwed into the plastic cistern on the other side of the wall, 4 times, nightmare job to swap it out.
I still use steel back boxes, and tuck the cables in neatly on first fix, just have to make sure boarders don't go straight over them which has been known, causes a bit of an issue when trying to run a test on the circuit.
