Planer/thicknesser advice

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Hsmith192

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Hope everyone is having a lovely holiday. I’m on the lookout for a planer thicknesser and would really appreciate any recommendations or advice on what to look for?
Space wise I have a single garage 3.5m x 5m.
 
prob you need to think about wheels if floor standing....
I have a DeWalt D27300 planer thicknesser, it has wheels built in.....floor area 40"x24".... a good machine....not cheap tho....quite long tables.....
mine gets dragged about all over and I can lift it into my van.....Just.....
I'm not into a bench top machines....
have said here before, have a look at this guy before you decide what your going to do.....
 
Hi, first questions are, what sort of budget did you have in mind, and are you looking for new or secondhand?
Secondly, are you thinking about a benchtop machine or floor standing/on wheels?
Budgets wise I’m thinking £900-£1400
I’m thinking new but would go for second hand if it was local.
I would like it to be a floor standing but on a heavy duty mobile base.
 
Go for cast iron tops and don't worry about weight - more mass absorbs vibration which is good. Pay particular attention to the how efficient it is to move from a planner to a thicknesser and vice versa - many are a faff and do this often and it can be a pain (stay away from ones that force you to remove the fence). A spiral cutter block is a good move, if not get a three bladed one and note that it's highly likely that you can upgrade to a spiral cutter at a later date. Long tables are a bonus, especially the outfeed for when planning longer timber. Go for one with a 16amp fuse rating as the motors are more powerful.

Consider second hand, some of them are gems. If your engineering minded and prepared to have a go, you can pick up one that needs a fettle at a liwer price. A few new ones come to mind: Jet, iTECH and Sedgwick. If you checkout Scot and Sargent at the moment there is a good deal on their Itech 260s. For Jet try Westcountry machinery4wood. Sedgwick go second hand as they are v expensive new.

I made mistakes early on and ended up selling them but above all learning from other experienced wodworkers. You do pay for what you get but with a bit of research and help you can get some cracking machines that tick most of the boxes.
 
Go for cast iron tops and don't worry about weight - more mass absorbs vibration which is good. Pay particular attention to the how efficient it is to move from a planner to a thicknesser and vice versa - many are a faff and do this often and it can be a pain (stay away from ones that force you to remove the fence). A spiral cutter block is a good move, if not get a three bladed one and note that it's highly likely that you can upgrade to a spiral cutter at a later date. Long tables are a bonus, especially the outfeed for when planning longer timber. Go for one with a 16amp fuse rating as the motors are more powerful.

Consider second hand, some of them are gems. If your engineering minded and prepared to have a go, you can pick up one that needs a fettle at a liwer price. A few new ones come to mind: Jet, iTECH and Sedgwick. If you checkout Scot and Sargent at the moment there is a good deal on their Itech 260s. For Jet try Westcountry machinery4wood. Sedgwick go second hand as they are v expensive new.

I made mistakes early on and ended up selling them but above all learning from other experienced wodworkers. You do pay for what you get but with a bit of research and help you can get some cracking machines that tick most of the boxes.
Thanks for the reply.
I’ve looked at the websites and they seem really good, there are some stock available but with delivery.
I will need to upgrade the power supply to 16A.

When you said mistakes, what were they and what did you learn as a result of it?
 
Thanks for the reply.
I’ve looked at the websites and they seem really good, there are some stock available but with delivery.
I will need to upgrade the power supply to 16A.

When you said mistakes, what were they and what did you learn as a result of it?
It would be very beneficial to have a few 16amp sockets around your workshop as this opens the field of choice for other machines. Just be mindful that some machines need a larger start up current so you may need a circuit breaker to meet this.

I bought machines based on a budget and not thinking what I wanted to achieve in the long term. Like everything you get what you pay for in terms of quality. I visited other carpenter workshops and looked at high end machines just to see what the differences are. It became clear that some of the new items are not built to a sound engineering standard, and machines do do the job intended but they have practical and quality issues that can plague enjoyment and efficiency. To be honest I moved to a separate planner and a thicknesser. For me it's ideal as when you are working on a project, you can leave the machines settings when fine tuning but above all there is no faffing around resetting a machine to either plane or thickness, basically it's far more efficient and satisfying (I do understand that this may not be practical or affordable for some).
If you are intending this to be a long term hobby or profession, spend as much as you afford on your machines (just think of the effort and cost to replace a machine of this size; it is expensive and not a pleasant experience).

There is a lot to be said about try before you buy but in these trying times is not easy. I can assure you that reading and talking about buying a product versus using or at least seeing it and having a fiddle can be like choosing between chaulk & cheese. Maybe hang on a while until you can venture. Ps there are some good second hand companies to look into that sell new and second hand. DB Keighley based in Leeds is a great place and the owner is very knowledgeable and helpful.
 
I'll be selling a Kity 636 in excellent order soon if you're interested. Fab machine which has only been lightly used as I build mainly from panel products. I have found this to be a very accurate and capable. The tables are cast alloy with a non-stick type coating. I'm in Gateshead and willing to ship, but you may be able to find one more locally?

Prior to the Kity I had an old Scheppach HMS260 which was actually a decent workhorse too and I was able to take on-site fairly easily due to it's low size/weight (or maybe becuse I was younger and stronger then?!). This could pull through some large heavy beams with some support. Bought it 2nd hand and lost no money on it.

The Kity is for sale as I've bought a slightly larger Wadkin BAOS which needs a refurb. So once the Wadkin is ready, I'll be moving the Kity on.
 
With your budget you should be able to get a nice Sedgwick PT255, which has if memory serves a 10” width and about 8” thickness capability. This is usually more than adequate for most things. you will probably be looking at a green coloured machine, these are the earlier machines, next in the colour scheme came light blue and blue and the latest are white and blue. Earlier machines I don’t believe come with a dust extraction chute, however, they are easy to make out of a bit of ply. You can buy a new one from Sedgwick, but all spares from Sedgwick tend to be on the pricy side. Having said that, the PT255 has remained intrinsically the same, so they will have spares of anything that needs fixing.

The machine is very nicely designed, it has solid cast iron structure to everything that’s important. This not only makes it very rigid, but also damps down any vibration improving the finished surface. I have played with none commercial grade machines that have only a fabricated cabinet and the tables are bolted to that. In my experience they are never sufficiently ridged to keep the surfacing tables coplaner. Unfortunately I believe some of the Sedgwick PT’s have moved recently in this direction which IMO is a retrograde step.

Anyway, the things to check are that the tables are all flat, no hollows or bumps. A very tiny variance is always going be there, but, tables can get worn due to usage. If they are flat, they can be adjusted to get them coplaner and parallel with the cutter block.

The main things that wear are the bearings in the spindle and the oilite bushes on the infeed and outfeed rollers.

Getting the belt and chain which drive the spindle and rollers to run properly can be tricky and very time consuming. Often the idler is in the wrong way around. Equally the belt pulleys can have lost their crown / remachined incorrectly.

Some Photos:

The main belt pulley, you can see it’s worn, there is a ridge on the edge. I had to remachine the crown to get it to run correctly. A spare is available from Sedgwick otherwise.

71517B95-A38B-45EC-9D8C-FE4A666D929B.jpeg

One of the blocks that holds the infeed / outfeed rollers. You can see inside the scoring. The roller actually had a large wobble making it very difficult to set it correctly to drag the stuff through. This needs / was replaced.
E470EBFD-2CDC-40E2-85CC-0D1D51C9B359.jpeg

This is the mechanism of the PT. it’s from a forum members machine I serviced. The flat belt is just hanging loose (work in progress) but it should be around a pulley behind the chain on the motor. The sprockets the chain drives can also be worn. These are worn, but still a little life left in them. They should have very rounded tips, worn sprockets have sharp tips. The sprockets and chain will need replacing when they are too badly worn.

078D9023-0F78-4456-9EC9-0E03E37CAEF8.jpeg

This is the rise and fall mechanism for the cast iron thicknessing table. Good robust system that just needs cleaning ever now and again.
AB81163F-02CE-47E5-B5DE-BFC09F90A560.jpeg

The bottom of the all cast cabinet that contains the mechanism. You can see that Sedgwick use good beefy castings, the central column that supports the thicknesser table goes through the central hole. Your looking at the bottom of it, which you would ordinarily never see.
1D5EB665-CF7F-48B6-AFC3-C62DFCECD12D.jpeg


The following was I believe a Green Machine, which is a friends. We took it apart serviced it stripped it and repainted it in the latest colours. It looked like new. Hardly any wear at all in the machine.
1416B821-FE59-4D19-BD04-F79B324A064D.jpeg
D08178FC-481F-4D13-908B-53522CF4C934.jpeg
E79CFD1B-4D0D-4DF7-B534-6242684B4C1B.jpeg
F026763F-BA7D-4935-8CAD-467706703B81.jpeg
 
Kity (3)636 is practical in a single garage. I had one and have a soft spot for them except for the cheap fence that was twisted from the outset.

I traded up and now have a used PT255 like the one in the post above but not so pretty :-(
Size is virtually the same. Weight is massively greater. Ease of use and accuracy are better because thicknessing is done without moving the tables so they keep alignment well unless manhandled by the tables.
The cast iron fence is absolutely rock solid and MUCH stronger than anything made of pressed steel or alloy on a hobby machine (which includes the Axminster trade one in this size).

As a rule of thumb, look carefully and avoid used machines that have been tarted up with a brush paint job. That's a favorite way for ebay sellers to pimp an old machine and make it look newer than it is. It suggests that they couldn't be bothered to take it apart or avoided doing so because they didn't know how to realign everything afterwards. You need to strip an old Sedgwick almost completely to parts to do a full service on it.
 
But maybe not for a single garage. That's a bigger, at least 12" machine by the look of it. LOTS heavier, longer and noticeably wider. Not a machine you can tuck against a wall and easily pull out for better access when you want to use it :)
 
I believe that Is actually the PT255, the 10” version rather than the MB which is the 12”. Should be a good machine for someone after a few careful checks.
 
I believe that Is actually the PT255, the 10” version rather than the MB which is the 12”. Should be a good machine for someone after a few careful checks.
Hah ! Every day's a school day (y)
Listing does say that it's a 10 inch.
I was thrown off by the angle of the shot that makes the rear cover look deeper than it is, and the lever mech on the side of it which has been dropped from the newer blue versions of the PT255
 
Thanks for all the responses, I guess I’m going to need to sort out the power supply first.
I have no experience with purchasing/looking at older British made machines, it’s a little new to me.
I might need to see them in action to get a good idea, other thing is size and transporting the machine! I could look into local deals on Facebook market place.
Definitely has made me think for the moment.
I’ll be on the look out and see what I can find.
 
If you know it's what you're after, it's just the same transporting a machine like this locally as nationally. Pallet shipment would be about £70 door to door.
 
If you know it's what you're after, it's just the same transporting a machine like this locally as nationally. Pallet shipment would be about £70 door to door.
That’s really good to know, I’m going to keep an eye out. I’ve found a delivery quote so will go from there. Just need to get that power supply sorted!
 
Small workshop I'd wonder about a combi machine. Tend to be good value for money and only a bit bigger than a PT on its own.
I had an AEG Maxi 26 years ago and although only pressed metal and one motor it did a huge amount of work. A much better machine than it looks.
They are still around sometimes with different badge, Lurem I think.
If in good nick somewhere from £500 up. Similar size but quality combis are available too.
PS the Maxi 26 would go in the back of a small van without much difficulty.
PPS "Record Combination Woodworking Machine Maxi 26" is same but a few improvements. The "C26" is another machine altogether with higher spec and price
 
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Over the last 30 years I've bought second hand several machines for home workshops ranging from single garage to last purpose built 8 x 5m :-
Elu 8 x 5 - good lightweight starter machine for a very small space
DeWalt 10 x 6 - great machine that punched above its weight but ate several rubber outfeed rollers
Elektra 12 x 7 - very nice but had a fancy built in electronic switch that failed
Sedgewick 12 x 7 - soon realised at near 400kg it was to heavy to move around the workshop easily by myself
Startrite 12 x 7 - currently still made, nice three cutter block, light enough to move but heavy enough build.
What I have learnt is:-
- don't worry about 16 amp feed, if you cannot wire it up it will not cost a fortune.
- cast iron and a bit of weight is nice but you must be able to move it.
- do NOT buy anything with a built in switch.
- buy second hand
- I would have sticked with Sedgwick if I had found a nice PT255. I cannot think of many occasions I have needed the 12" capacity I've bought but I have needed the weight and grunt larger machines bring.

Colin
 

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