planer or thicknesser first or planer thicknesser?

[DBT85]

Are people really using the sled method for full projects? (furniture builds)

That seems crazy to me. Having to wedge and glue each piece down must make things so much slower.

No need to glue it, just put a stop at the end to prevent it shifting down the sled.

I've seen sled designs that are just a board with wedges all the way up to huge ones that had about 20 screw adjustable wedges for lots of points of contact on a large board.

 

[transatlantic]

No need to glue it, just put a stop at the end to prevent it shifting down the sled.

I've seen sled designs that are just a board with wedges all the way up to huge ones that had about 20 screw adjustable wedges for lots of points of contact on a large board.

I meant glue the wedges

 

[transatlantic]

I've had the experience of taking light passes with a DW734 thicknesser and getting the board flat without using a sled. You have to be patient, but it works fine.

Kirk

I can see how that would work if it was cupped. But not a twist or bow.

 

[sploo]

I can see how that would work if it was cupped. But not a twist or bow.

Yea, you really wouldn't want to put something through the machine that was going to rock.

 

[Mark Anthony]

there are outlets in the UK for the Triton, Screwfix and Amazon both have it listed. Triton TPT125 317mm Electric Thicknesser 240V

 

[transatlantic]

Looks pretty good. A lot better construction than the one I mentioned previously.

 

[billw]

I've had the Metabo DH330 benchtop thicknesser for a number of years and it's been really good. I can't comment on the similar DeWalt, but I understand their DW735 model is very good - but seems to be difficult to get in the UK.

I've just picked a DH330 up, it's still in the box as I've been busy for a few weeks but going to have a go with it soon. Any tips for setting it up or is it pretty much good to go straight out of the box? Most machines seem to have one of two common niggles that frequently crop up!

 

[sploo]

I've just picked a DH330 up, it's still in the box as I've been busy for a few weeks but going to have a go with it soon. Any tips for setting it up or is it pretty much good to go straight out of the box? Most machines seem to have one of two common niggles that frequently crop up!

I have a distant memory that the height gauge wasn't particularly accurate, but I always measure stock when I'm planing it anyway.

The plastic dust port is pretty useless out of the box; they've got a 100mm outer with a (I think) 63mm inner - the idea being you can connect either size hose. In reality it just means it clogs up quickly - so I hacked some of the middle from mine to flow better with a 100mm hose.

Other than that it "just works"; for me anyway.

 

[Barramonday]

When I had a bench top thicknesser I would joint one side by hand with a no7 then run it through, seemed quicker than faffing about with sleds and wedges.
The biggest problem I had was the noise from the thicknesser ( think small jet engine ) , made my family cranky and peed-off the neighbours.
If possible look at anything with an induction motor rather than a universal.

 

[sploo]

When I had a bench top thicknesser I would joint one side by hand with a no7 then run it through, seemed quicker than faffing about with sleds and wedges.
The biggest problem I had was the noise from the thicknesser ( think small jet engine ) , made my family cranky and peed-off the neighbours.
If possible look at anything with an induction motor rather than a universal.

Yea, I do sometimes take off high spots with a handplane as it can indeed be quicker.

Agreed on the noise; though I have a 12" cast iron planer/thicknesser that weighs in somewhere north of 300kg, and is running from a 3 phase induction motor off a VFD (soft start etc); it's still bl**dy loud, especially when cutting. I don't think these machines do "quiet"; though I've seen claims that spiral cutter heads do help.