Planer info please!

[gasmansteve]

Hi all
I`m looking around for a planer and wondered if a given feed rate of say 8m/min is simply the max rate at which the user pushes the timber through the planer?. The one`s I`ve looked at appear to have no feed rollers so I assume not automatically fed??. Sorry for the blatantly obvious question but never having used one wasn`t sure :? .
Cheers
Steve

 

[TheTiddles]

Depends what you call a planer. I would call a planer what some people call a jointer, ie the top bit of a planer thicknesser. The only ones with feed rollers are large production machines or you can add one of your own for about £250. However most of the time you don't need them and by hand is fine, just mind your fingers as usual.

The thicknesser is the underneath bit of a planer thicknesser and does need feed rollers as it will overlap the cuts of the block to give a smooth finish. The feed rollers are gear or belt linked to the cutter block so as the cutter slows with material variations the speed of feed does also.

Does that make sense?

Aidan

 

[gasmansteve]

Hi Aidan
Yes sorry I meant to say a planer/thicknesser, They seem to start about 100 to 150 quid the SIP, or Axminster type. I`m not really sure what the difference is as if you keep planing timber then it will get to the thickness you want ???. I looked at a Macallister one in B&Q for about £159 which seemed fairly well made and had the cutting blades above the wood as opposed to under it like some of the others but didn`t see any rollers or if something kicks in when it starts off ??Am I explaining meself right :? .
Cheers
Steve

 

[TheTiddles]

My advice would be the same as anyone's here which is to pay as much as you can afford.

Planers cut one side at an angle to another (normally 90 for obvious reasons) the thicknesser cuts one side parallel to the opposite. You could plane one side down to the right thickness like what was done in the olden days.

Generally we joint the board to give a single straight edge, then using the fence cut another adjoiing edge at 90 degrees to the first edge, then we thickness the opposite edges down to the finished size.

It depends on what you want to do really, if it small detailed pieces then there's no huge need for machinery, likewise for softwood work, however if you want to make big tables with big pieces of hardwoods then it will cost you more to buy pre-planed boards than it will to buy a couple of mid-range machines

Aidan

 

[gasmansteve]

I am interested in segmented wood turning at present which involves making rings from mitred pieces maybe 12, 16 or 18 segments per ring so using timbers of the same thickness is important to get good and near invisible glue joints. More experienced segmented turners than I suggest a thickness sander which can be home made or bought for about £600 :? .
I`m not too sure if a thicknesser/planer would give the finish needed without any chipping which would stand out when the segments are glued together?.
As I say never used one or know anyone who has it was just a thought I had to get accurately cut timbers.
Cheers
Steve

 

[OPJ]

Well, I you won't be able to obtain accurate square, straight and true edges on any kind of sanding machine! :shock: That's where you'll need your plane/thicknesser. :wink:

As long as the knives are sharp and you feed the timber in a direction that follows the grain, you should be able to get accurate results. You can also take finer cuts (not less than 0.5mm) through the thicknesser to get the best possible finish.

Speed/Drum sanders are mainly used for sanding large, flat surfaces or cleaning up prepared timber with difficult grain that didn't plane as well as hoped. They're a big investment for a relatively small amount of use, in most cases.

 

[gasmansteve]

Cheers for that Olly
Can a thicknesser/planer really be that smooth when planing??. Must get me hands on one of the ruddy things and try it.
Regards
Steve