Plane refurb advice

[p111dom]

After pondering plane choises I've been looking at the threads talking about the lack of mid priced planes. I'm only really starting to get into hand tools but I really can't justify the outlay for the Veritas stuff. I MAny plumb for then for the things I don't have like a bull nose plane/shouler plane etc but up to now my old Stanleys will have to do. I was interested in the post about sending an old plane off the Ray Iles for a new blade and refurb and was considering that option. Oddly I have a 4, 4 1/2, 5 and a 5 1/2 Stanley planes. Other than the fact that they cut well when freshly sharpened I know very little about them. They all have Bailey cast into the front. Is this of any significance? If I could only afford to rerfurb one of these, which would you chose?

 

[tnimble]

Depending on the work you use them for the No 5 1/2 would probablt the most versatile one.

 

[woodbloke]

Either the No5 or 5.5 - Rob

 

[bugbear]

Other than the fact that they cut well when freshly sharpened ...

Sounds good to me; save your refurb money for something that doesn't work.

You might try an after market blade; either a 2 3/8" or 2" (which are the two sizes your planes use).

IMHO most of the after market blades are such a step up from the originals that the differences between the after market blades are relativiely unimportant; therefore buy the cheapest of them.

Other refurb you can do yourself; certainly a cosmetic refurb (strip and polish), and a handle refurb (strip, sand, refinish) is quite easy.

After that you're into metalwork. which requires capital outlay on equipment if you don't have it.

here's some info:

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/plane.html

(that page is drifting out of date; dead link reports welcome)

BugBear

 

[beech1948]

After pondering plane choises I've been looking at the threads talking about the lack of mid priced planes. I'm only really starting to get into hand tools but I really can't justify the outlay for the Veritas stuff. I MAny plumb for then for the things I don't have like a bull nose plane/shouler plane etc but up to now my old Stanleys will have to do. I was interested in the post about sending an old plane off the Ray Iles for a new blade and refurb and was considering that option. Oddly I have a 4, 4 1/2, 5 and a 5 1/2 Stanley planes. Other than the fact that they cut well when freshly sharpened I know very little about them. They all have Bailey cast into the front. Is this of any significance? If I could only afford to rerfurb one of these, which would you chose?

Hi,
The sad part of your post is that "my old Stanleys will have to do". That really lit my fire this morning sad git that I am.

Stanleys are fine, wonderful and in many ways are exceptional for their time. Today old Stanleys are just as good as an LN or LV IF they are properly fettled and well sharpened and this can be achieved at minimal cost.

Yes Ln or LV will be a bit better. I admit to owning several LNs plus a full set of Stanley bench planes. My Stanley 4.5 and 5.5 get a lot of use and I have not been tempted to replace them with LNs.

So start fettling. Smile as you tell the family that you are saving money and remember that LN and LV sell most often ( but not always) to affluent, well off amateurs who may not even use them very much. Bling is often more sought after than delivered projects.

Rant over...wheeew!

regards

Alan

 

[p111dom]

Thanks for all that. I was looking at a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some. Don't know if they would fit or if it was a no no or not. I saw a thread from Lord Nibbo some time ago about japanning. That was interesting but the planes finish looks more like paint to me. Just not sure how or what to do myself. I'll take some pictures which will probably better explain their condition. I could then post referb pics as I go. If I do it myself I could probably afford to do all 4. :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some.

Dom - you're a woodworker of some repute...make one! :lol: - Rob

 

[wizer]

Can't you buy injection moulded handles??

 

[tnimble]

Thanks for all that. I was looking at a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some. Don't know if they would fit or if it was a no no or not. I saw a thread from Lord Nibbo some time ago about japanning. That was interesting but the planes finish looks more like paint to me. Just not sure how or what to do myself. I'll take some pictures which will probably better explain their condition. I could then post referb pics as I go. If I do it myself I could probably afford to do all 4. :lol:

Go for the Hock one, in O1, they suit the plane much better, are just a bit harder and have an equal density. Also look at their replacement cap irons. They do work a lot better than the original spring type.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

If you don't like the Clifton stamp ( :? ) don't forget the other British option - Ray Iles.
I've put one of Ray's replacement blades in a modern Stanley 60 1/2 - like a different tool.
I avoid Hock because of those I have had (scraper and gramill blades) all have needed quite a bit of work - more of a blade kit.

 

[tnimble]

If you don't like the Clifton stamp ( :? ) don't forget the other British option - Ray Iles.
I've put one of Ray's replacement blades in a modern Stanley 60 1/2 - like a different tool.
I avoid Hock because of those I have had (scraper and gramill blades) all have needed quite a bit of work - more of a blade kit.

All Hock blades I've handled required about 10 minutes or when the ruler trick is used about half. This is about the same amount needed for a LN blade, and a quarter of the time needed for an original Stanley :shock:

 

[p111dom]

a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some.

Dom - you're a woodworker of some repute...make one! :lol: - Rob

Thanks but I don't do turning........yet. :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some.

Dom - you're a woodworker of some repute...make one! :lol: - Rob

Thanks but I don't do turning........yet. :wink:

Dom - since when is the rear handle :? on a Stanley or Record plane ever been turned? - Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

All Hock blades I've handled required about 10 minutes or when the ruler trick is used about half. This is about the same amount needed for a LN blade, and a quarter of the time needed for an original Stanley :shock:

Agree about Stanley blades.
May be because those I've had have been small-and-awkward (similar to a small router smoothing bit without the stem) or thin.
The former make me think wistfully of LV's bits, the latter (when lucky) are uniformly bowed and so can be treated like a japanese blade.
Since some makers output is good enough not to need it, I don't use the ruler trick except on buggered old (or Stanley) blades when I've been in a hurry (I'd rather grind back.)

 

[p111dom]

a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some.

Dom - you're a woodworker of some repute...make one! :lol: - Rob

Thanks but I don't do turning........yet. :wink:

Dom - since when is the rear handle :? on a Stanley or Record plane ever been turned? - Rob

Ok then I don't do carving then.
:lol:

 

[p111dom]

Some pics comming shortly. Just downloading them into photo bucket.

 

[p111dom]

Heres where my planes live.

Yes I know they're all blade down. Naughty me.

All Stanley apart forn the 5 which is a "Footprint?" although that one has a Record blade as does one of the Stanleys.

I don't know how this happened. Before I owned it anyway. The 5 and a half is in really good condition. Just a little surface rust on the sides and the blade looks old.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

a new Hoc blade or a Clifton replacement. The rear handle on one of them is shot so I would need a replacement. I think Amxninster sell some.

Dom - you're a woodworker of some repute...make one! :lol: - Rob

Thanks but I don't do turning........yet. :wink:

Dom - since when is the rear handle :? on a Stanley or Record plane ever been turned? - Rob

Ok then I don't do carving then.
:lol:

:shock: Better learn quick - only two weeks before the Turkey needs doing

 

[p111dom]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[bugbear]

I don't know how this happened. Before I owned it anyway.

That tote just needs glueing; the glue surfaces might need a bit of a clean, but epoxy is quite the gap filler...

While I'm on the two cheapest after market blades are:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Japa ... -22303.htm

http://www.classichandtools.com/acatalo ... des_1.html

BugBear