Plane Irons and ProEdge

[Lonsdale73]

Not remotely interested in sparking a debate on which method is best, I just want to know if anyone uses a Sorby ProEdge to sharpen plane irons? I can find videos galore for sharpening turning tools, not so many for regular chisels and no mention at all of plane irons which, I feel, could be considered in much the same way as a regular chisel?

 

[johnwalls26]

There are videos on the Sorby site, and dvds

 

[Jacob]

Not remotely interested in sparking a debate on which method is best, I just want to know if anyone uses a Sorby ProEdge to sharpen plane irons? I can find videos galore for sharpening turning tools, not so many for regular chisels and no mention at all of plane irons which, I feel, could be considered in much the same way as a regular chisel?

I didn't like it for plane irons as the belt is too narrow. In fact I sold it on - it's just an expensive linisher.
Normally do it freehand on oil stone but if inclined to use power I have a 12" sanding disc on my lathe, which is perfect.
There are various free standing bench disc sanders - also can be used for wood of course.

 

[Lonsdale73]

There are videos on the Sorby site, and dvds

Link? As noted above, a search on their site as well as youtube and google produced loads on turning tools, chisels and even an axe but none for a plane iron so if you have spotted one that neither I nor the search engines could see then I'd be grateful if you could share it with me.

 

[Lonsdale73]

I didn't like it for plane irons as the belt is too narrow. In fact I sold it on - it's just an expensive linisher.
Normally do it freehand on oil stone but if inclined to use power I have a 12" sanding disc on my lathe, which is perfect.
There are various free standing bench disc sanders - also can be used for wood of course.

I freely admit to being crap at sharpening and can at least get something usable off a ProEdge but yes, I was concerned about the belt being narrower than the blade. I know Tormek and their imitators offer jigs designed for the purpose but cannot see one for a ProEdge - maybe hidden along with the relevant video.

I do have a 12" sanding disc for my lathe although given my past history of failures with sharpening I'm not sure I'd want to sacrifice my shiny new plane iron.

 

[essexalan]

I always use one along with a square edge guide for grinding plane irons and bench chisels. Width of the belt is not a problem as you can slide the tool across the belt. Final sharpening is on oil or waterstones so no idea if you can get a usable sharp edge from the ProEdge alone but trying to remove the burr would present a problem as metal removal is quite fast.

 

[Jacob]

....

I do have a 12" sanding disc for my lathe although given my past history of failures with sharpening I'm not sure I'd want to sacrifice my shiny new plane iron.

It's easier with a disc. Slow speed, runs cooler than a belt, dead flat and wide surface makes it easier to get the angle right.

 

[Duncan A]

I occasionally use a ProEdge to sharpen plane irons. It does the job OK and I've never found the width a problem. If you want sharp-sharp you'll have to invest in a Trizact 3000 belt and/or finish off by honing on an oilstone or something like Autosol on a piece of MDF
Duncan

 

[sploo]

I've used the square edge accessory (Robert Sorby Proedge Sharpening System Woodworkers Square Guide - Pro Edge Pesqw from Westcountry Machinery 4 Wood) to put an initial bevel on a few plane irons that have been badly damaged (basically grinding out deep chips and dents). I haven't used the ProEdge for actual iron sharpening as I prefer to do it by hand, but with care I think it would be fine to slide even a wide iron across the belt to touch up a small bevel on the front edge.

 

[johnnyb]

yes it's poo tbh. leaves a wobbly edge. love my tormek clone for planes. perfect edge 2 minutes like a razor.

 

[fezman]

I occasionally use a ProEdge to sharpen plane irons. It does the job OK and I've never found the width a problem. If you want sharp-sharp you'll have to invest in a Trizact 3000 belt and/or finish off by honing on an oilstone or something like Autosol on a piece of MDF
Duncan

@Lonsdale73 I've done this and as @Duncan A says you will need to hone afterward.
I still wasn't satisfied, so now i use the PE when i need to regrind the primary bevel and then hand sharpen from there.

 

[TRITON]

Normally do it freehand on oil stone but if inclined to use power I have a 12" sanding disc on my lathe, which is perfect.

A recently discovered picture of Jacob when he was gainfully employed, and doing just that.

 

[Jacob]

A recently discovered picture of Jacob when he was gainfully employed, and doing just that.
View attachment 157999

that's when I still had all my hair!
Thing is though - back then we were sharpening perfectly well and just as quickly as any of the slaves to modern sharpening.
Probably quicker in fact.
Nothing new has been discovered or invented except the commercial potential of dubious gadgets!
Back then it was more about dubious magic spells and witchcraft. Waste of money - bin there dunnit, plus ça change!

 

[Trafalgar]

That look on somebody's face when they realize that no matter how sharp the saw, plane iron, chisel, etc. it's still damn hard work.

The poor, newly-minted "hand tool woodworker" (soon to be an internet hand tool 'expert' for after all he has enough to outfit four shops) is totally gassed after four squaring and thicknessing a decent sized 4/4 rough board down to 13/16". "Why, surely something must be wrong" he says. And the journey starts -- sharpening stones, jigs, grinders, tool steels, metallurgical theory, and all the rest of it. And at some point he does really get a sharp edge, pulls out another test board, and it made him just as tired and worn out as the one that started the odyssey in the first place.

"Say, didn't I see a sale pamphlet on Felder power equipment the other day."

And so it goes...

 

[Jacob]

That look on somebody's face when they realize that no matter how sharp the saw, plane iron, chisel, etc. it's still damn hard work.

The poor, newly-minted "hand tool woodworker" (soon to be an internet hand tool 'expert' for after all he has enough to outfit four shops) is totally gassed after four squaring and thicknessing a decent sized 4/4 rough board down to 13/16". "Why, surely something must be wrong" he says. And the journey starts -- sharpening stones, jigs, grinders, tool steels, metallurgical theory, and all the rest of it. And at some point he does really get a sharp edge, pulls out another test board, and it made him just as tired and worn out as the one that started the odyssey in the first place.

"Say, didn't I see a sale pamphlet on Felder power equipment the other day."

And so it goes...

Well yes. Probably make sense to do more body building rather than sharpening. More about biceps, less about grit sizes and gadgets!

 

[raffo]

I've always felt that these belt sanders in the regular sharpening routine are way overkill and more metal will be ground away than by just getting the oilstone out on the bench.

 

[sploo]

I've always felt that these belt sanders in the regular sharpening routine are way overkill and more metal will be ground away than by just getting the oilstone out on the bench.

Some years ago I saw a demo at a local woodturning club by a Sorby rep (going over the ProEdge and some of their turning tools). He was actually quite clear that you really only needed to touch up the tools briefly to keep them sharp; otherwise you'd be paying him more money (for belts, and wearing down turning tools too quickly). It was somewhat tongue in cheek, but I did like the point he was trying to make.

 

[Jacob]

Some years ago I saw a demo at a local woodturning club by a Sorby rep (going over the ProEdge and some of their turning tools). He was actually quite clear that you really only needed to touch up the tools briefly to keep them sharp; otherwise you'd be paying him more money (for belts, and wearing down turning tools too quickly). It was somewhat tongue in cheek, but I did like the point he was trying to make.

I think the trade in replacement blades is entirely due to over enthusiastic sharpening. They'd last for years otherwise.

 

[--Tom--]

Turn the blade 90degrees and you don’t have to worry about the width of the belt, just grind the bevel vertical. Means you can see the angle easily too.

I use a belt grinder to remove the bulk and then set the edge bevel on stones. Once the edge bevel gets too wide I re grind on the belt.

Quick easy and if you try to not hit the actual edge can use a 36 or 60 grit belt which doesn’t build much heat in the steel due to the rate of removal.

Happy to take some pics to show what I mean

 

[Trafalgar]

Turn the blade 90degrees and you don’t have to worry about the width of the belt, just grind the bevel vertical. Means you can see the angle easily too.

I use a belt grinder to remove the bulk and then set the edge bevel on stones. Once the edge bevel gets too wide I re grind on the belt.

Quick easy and if you try to not hit the actual edge can use a 36 or 60 grit belt which doesn’t build much heat in the steel due to the rate of removal.

Happy to take some pics to show what I mean

Like side sharpening on a narrow stone.