Plane Handle WIP

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Pvt_Ryan

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Location
North Down, Northern Ireland
As I have 2 #4 planes one with plastic handles and one with wooden (in process of refurbishing) handles. I got some sapele offcuts from a local timber yard to practice with. I decided to have a go at making a plane handle.

Tools used:
back saw
coping saw
6&12mm chisels
half round file (very cheap PoS)
Sand paper

Had to repair the toe as it had part of it chiselled off by mistake.

One of the planes
15b.jpg

A piece of scrap sapele
16.jpg

Cutting out the shape
17.jpg

On its own
18.jpg

Beside one of the #4s
19.jpg


Can anyone suggest how to finish sapele? The wood looks crap (ok I am only at 80grit so far as the shape isnt quite finished.) but it's not looking like it will improve any with finer grits. End grain esp looks bad.
 
Have you seen the plane DIY plane handle instructions, has all the info about the holes for securing the handle, angles, depts etc. Are you going to round the handle over to soften it off?
 
Shape to your hand not the original is my advice. and on the sapele i would use boiled linseed oil comes out rather nice could possible wax it
 
Stupid questions but:
1) Do I buy "Linseed oil" and then boil it or do I buy Boiled linseed oil?
2) How do I apply it? (Gently with a cloth, dunk the handle in it, do i sand or wax after the oil has applied or is that it done)

I do intend to make a handle shaped to my hand but if this one isn't I'll just make another. Practice makes perfect.. :D

I dont have a bench drill so getting the hole right is going to be "fun". :D
 
Pvt_Ryan":319hgicr said:
Stupid questions but:
1) Do I buy "Linseed oil" and then boil it or do I buy Boiled linseed oil?
2) How do I apply it? (Gently with a cloth, dunk the handle in it, do i sand or wax after the oil has applied or is that it done)

Buy boiled linseed oil. The raw stuff will take forever to dry, if it dries at all.

Wipe it on with a rag, then wipe off the excess. (If you don't wipe off the excess, the top layer skins over but the underneath never does = sticky mess.)

Add as many coats as you want. The old rule of thumb was allegedly once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, or something like that.
 
Your grain is oriented wrong - look at the way the grain runs on the example you're working from. The orientation you've used will leave a very fragile base and tip on the handle.
 
You can download PDF Templates for Stanley Plane handles from the Lee Valley site.


Rod
 
Hi,

@AndyT Thanks i'll give that ago

@Setch I know, I only realised after it was shaped.. It's only a 1st go so not bothered, I'll just redo it with another bit of scrap after I finish, so my production run will become my dry run.. DoH!!
 
Hi,

You will need a long brad point bit to drill the hole, or drill from both sides and hopefully meet in the middle, I drill the hole first then mark out the shape, and you need to drill the counterbore first otherwise it will split out and ruin the hole handle as I have found out.

Pete
 
I think I might need to drill from both sides as I am fairly sure I don't have a long enough drill bit. Thanks for the tip about the counterbore, I usually do those last.
 
Alf":3e587a30 said:
My advice is drill the hole before you put any more work into shaping...

Ditto! I've just made a plane tote for an old No 6 and the drilling was the worst part. I did have a log enough drill but it kept wandering when i tried it in a scrap on the pillar drill so I had to drill mine from both ends using an old hand drill - it took AGES...
 
If you are starting again, drill the hole in a square block, then afterwards make the angled cut. Much easier than trying to drill an accurate hole on a slope.

Someone here did a really good w-i-p - I thought it was Alf but have failed to find it.
 

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