Plane advice

[weekend_woodworker]

I was fortunate enough to acquire some planes today. I got a Stanley 75 which looks to be complete, the only thing I am not sure about is the nicker. One of the three ends look like it has been sharpened, but nearly worn out and the other two ends are not sharp at all. Is that how it is meant to be? Is it possible to get replacement ones if it is worn out?

I was also lucky enough to get a Record 44. It only has one blade and it seems to have lost its depth stop. I assume it is possible to get more blades on EBay. Is it also possible to get a depth stop? The bars for the fence are also fairly short. Are longer bars available or is it just a case of buying some rod of the right diameter?

Finally I got this little old bullnose plane. The only identifier I could find on it was "75". I think the blade is probably the wrong way up in it. Does anyone know anything about this sort of plane?

Many thanks,

Mark

 

[Vann]

...I got a Stanley 75...

That's a #78 (not #75)

...the only thing I am not sure about is the nicker. One of the three ends look like it has been sharpened, but nearly worn out and the other two ends are not sharp at all. Is that how it is meant to be? Is it possible to get replacement ones if it is worn out?...

They came blunt and you sharpened them to suit your requirements (I haven't sharpened any of mine yet )

...Finally I got this little old bullnose plane. The only identifier I could find on it was "75"...

Yup, that's a #75. It looks to be missing its nose. They're said to be close to useless (I have never tried one).

...I was also lucky enough to get a Record 44. It only has one blade and it seems to have lost its depth stop. I assume it is possible to get more blades on EBay. Is it also possible to get a depth stop? The bars for the fence are also fairly short. Are longer bars available or is it just a case of buying some rod of the right diameter?...

For cutters you can try eBay. Ray Ilse makes replacement sets for the #044 as well.
For rods, your best bet is buying rod of the correct diameter.
And for a depth stop it's eBay or make your own.
- unless someone on here has anything spare laying about.

In my biased opinion - that Record #044 is the pick of the three.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Thanks Vann. I shall have a go at playing with them all in due course. You are right I messed up my numbers and it is a 78.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[D_W]

The 75 is missing a front part, but I wouldn't search for it. They are a struggle to use and a poor substitute for a proper bullnose.

You should be able to sharpen the nicker of the 78 by honing the inside only. If it's too worn, Stanley may still stock replacements. If not, find one used.

 

[D_W]

Too late with my response!

 

[Bod]

Pictures missing.

Bod

 

[Jarno]

With respect to missing parts, you can find them on ebay but that is a pretty expensive route, at least for me, with the eBay shipping costs. I would just find another one which is more complete.
Note that the depth stops sometimes become a bit wobbly, where the connection between shaft and shoe is loose. Anyone have a good tip to solve this?

But both the 78 (or 778 even better) and 44 are really useful planes, they work great. I used to do these jobs with an electric router, but the hand planes perform much better (quicker, more accurate, no noise no dust, ready to go out of the box)

 

[D_W]

Here in the states, the construction rabbet planes (the 78 stanley, and sargent types) are more often found incomplete than complete. I echo the comment above that parts for many of these old incomplete planes are easier to come by looking for donors.

The depth stop and fence for the 78 are probably worth as much as a good condition 78 without those two parts. Because they're what's usually missing.

Keep your eyes peeled for a good condition English wooden moving fillister - they're better planes for this work in cabinets by a long shot, and work the same way (depth stop, nicker defines the edge of the cut - that part is important for accurate work), but with far less friction and much less effort. The nicker design is better and less fiddly to deal with.