Pitted plating - what would you do ?

[Sideways]

I'm cleaning up an old metalworking lathe for my own use.

It has simple and robust height adjustable feet. Threaded rods with a ball end that sit in turned steel feet.
These were plated - maybe nickel - and as you see are quite pitted.

How would you deal with these ?
I'm not fussy about the appearance but if I just wipe them with grease or whatever they'll be rusting again inside a year and lifting the lathe to clean them is tedious.
Is there an easy way to strip old plating so that I can spray them with primer and enamel ?

Long term is probably to pop them on the lathe and skim them up.

Thanks

 

[Spectric]

Plating removal is the reverse of putting it on in the first place, so reverse electrolysis.

Another idea is to use Sodium Hydroxide, aka caustc soda which will remove chrome.

If you have some old lead acid batteries then you can use the electrolyte out of these to soak them in which also removes plating, just ensure you wash down well afterwards.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

Clean and spray with Hammerite - don't even need to rub down if using hammered finish which would work fine for an "industrial" look.

 

[AES]

I must say that IME, even the "new" Hammerite in both aerosol spray cans and to brush on both work very well indeed. Simple light rub down followed by a "wash" with something like acetone, etc, then just "spray or brush" away! And +1 for the "hammered" finish too.

If you want to, but really but not necessary for something well protected from the weather (hopefully that includes your lathe) you can use a special primer also in their range. But personally I wouldn't bother with that

One point though: Especially if brushing you really do need their special thinners. Nothing else seems to work.

If for nothing else then it's needed for brush cleaning afterwards. The "problems" I've found with that are A) that here anyway, not all stores carry it (don't ask me why); B) it stinks to high heaven (makes my eyes water); and C) get a splash on an open cut and it stings like hell (so use Nitrile gloves if you're as clumsy as me).

 

[TRITON]

2-pack cataloy, sand sand sand, then apply the enamel.

Sorry, misread - pitted plating, not pitted metal. Ignore the above.

 

[Sideways]

Interesting recommendations guys, thanks and please keep them coming.
I haven't used hammerite in 30 years. I wasn't too keen in the first place and believe the formula was messed with.
It used to need evil thinners, toluene or xylene (?), when I was a kid.
Just as paint over galvanising needs an acid etch primer, I assumed paint wouldn't stick too well to a plated surface.

 

[AES]

Interesting recommendations guys, thanks and please keep them coming.
I haven't used hammerite in 30 years. I wasn't too keen in the first place and believe the formula was messed with.
It used to need evil thinners, toluene or xylene (?), when I was a kid.
Just as paint over galvanising needs an acid etch primer, I assumed paint wouldn't stick too well to a plated surface.

I tend(ed) to agree with you Sideways, especially when I heard about the "new improved" version! (it's always "improved" isn't it? Except when it isn't)! But in this case I really was very pleasantly surprised. It covers well (all the colours I've tried) and while aerosol rattle cans are much more expensive (true with just about any paint though), the rattle cans work well for touch ups and small bits.

Yeah, I too seem to remember that the "original" thinners were pretty 'orrible, and in that respect, the "new" thinners have NOT improved (see my post above). But overall, the results are very good and easy to obtain with minimal prep. What isn't to like (apart from the stinking thinners )!

 

[Spectric]

I tend(ed) to agree with you Sideways, especially when I heard about the "new improved" version!

I don't think many products actually get improved, look at the new version of creosote which is nothing like it once was and red oxide is also not like it was.

 

[kinverkid]

Since it's only the plating that is pitted you could use thinned Upol 1K Stopper. Scuff the surfaces, with a palm sander if you can and mix a dab of Upol with a tiny drop of Acetone and apply thinly. This will dry very quickly, probably in less than a minute due to the Acetone. Light sand with wet and dry, re-apply where necessary. Prime and top coat for a smooth finish. This is how I smooth finish my 3D printed models before painting.

 

[Fergie 307]

You could go straight to your idea of skimming them, then nickel plate them yourself. Very easy to do. You just need a small power supply to 3.5 to 5 v DC. A piece of nickel rod and some plating solution. Maybe £25 for the lot. Bear in mind that the finish will not hide any flaws in the metal, it's only a few microns thick. So you need to finish them well, either polished or satin, whatever floats your boat. Satin is easily achieved by bead blasting.
I do this a lot on old clocks and pocket watches which often have a nickel plated finish. It really is very easy and only takes a few minutes.

Oh and for hammerite fans it can be thinned, cleaned off etc with regular synthetic paint thinner. You can get a gallon can of the stuff from anywhere that sells car paint for body shops for not much more than H charge for a measly little tin. Still stinks though

 

[Fergie 307]

I don't think many products actually get improved, look at the new version of creosote which is nothing like it once was and red oxide is also not like it was.

The farmers I used to work with years ago used to mix old engine oil with diesel as a wood treatment instead of creosote.

 

[Limey Lurker]

The remaining plating will stick to the metal far better than any paint will, so just paint over it.

 

[joshvegas]

Am i the only one thinking. "Stick them back on the floor and forget about them"?

 

[Sideways]

Am i the only one thinking. "Stick them back on the floor and forget about them"?

Most probably not
That's why I rarely use tradesmen compared to doing a job myself. I take 10x as long but where the tradie would stick 'em back on the floor, I wouldn't.
When you're retired, you have the time to take pride in doing it right rather than everything being about value for money.
As a professional engineer where a recall could cost the company millions, the mindset was always about being thorough.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't think many products actually get improved, look at the new version of creosote which is nothing like it once was and red oxide is also not like it was.

Schlimmbesserung.